I had to move the saddle to where it was anyway as further back was uncomfortable for me.
It looks like I could do with a little bit more reach, but this is something I will try to achieve with the new extensions + higher risers underneath the arm rests. There will be a lot more adjustment options compared to the current set.
I will definitely try the technique as I have a feeling that my shoulders are quite wide and are costing me a lot of time.
For the time being, I was able to ride comfortably in the position for 2hrs+ doing various efforts. I was satisfied with the power output too as I could hold 96% of the FTP (from a road bike position) for 25mins at the end of the two hour block.
Hey yāall
I seem to be in this never ending quest for a good saddle.
At the moment I am on an ISM PN4.0
So far its the best yet but I have never really been that comfortable. As far as ISMs go this is the best one. Iāve tried the PN1.1 and PL1.1, and adamo. All of them start to get me sore at the leg attachment.
Iāve tried going narrower like the JCOB type5/JOF 55 and made me numb in 15min because Iām sitting right on my perenium. Same type of deal with the Selle Italia WATT
Iāve been jumping back and forth witht he Spesh Sitero. Someitmes I like it and sometimes I hate it.
An issue I have had is putting pressure on my perineum rather than sit bones - this is a bike fit issue that no saddle will rectify. Also, are you ātucking your tailboneā under? It activates glutes, but also helps alleviate pressure on perineum
Used to have a similar problem mate. Also found that those ISM were the better option but still not great. I found that improving flexibility/ROM in my hamstrings and a change in saddle to the Bontrager Hill Comp did the trick for me. But as always with saddles, it is highly personal.
After some tinkering with the new position (and joining the dark side of the force), I have come up with this. I will take this to the track in two weeks from now and have high hopes. It ātestsā a few watts faster for me outdoors. Really interested in what the track says.
Big difference between Track and TT on Road is seeing where you are going. On the track you can afford a lower head position looking down because there is the red line and no cars or holes in the track.
On the Road you need a āHeads upā position to see where you are going AND to avoid being DQād!!!
I have come to the conclusion that staying alive is everythingā¦
Staying alive is one of my top priorities in many things.
As you might be able to see on my picture, I can look over may hands pretty well. The position is rather not that aggressive for me.
I would argue that the helmet looks better on Biggles and Alex compared to me, and if you look how high their knees go on the upstroke compared to their elbows, the two run a rather high front and a rather crouched position. The helmet works great with that.
And we know it works great because both are very successful and have extensive access to track and wind tunnels.
But wonāt you get bored of having to tell people why you wear an even more ridiculous helmet than normal testers every time they see a picture on social media?
The Tri-Spoke is the Relvover Troika TMD (which is the prototype version of the Troika Max). The mini disc around the hub is made to direct airflow around the disc rotor. Donāt know how well it does that, but I will give it a shot a few weeks from now.
Is the dip between the top of your helmet and the high point on you back slowing you down? Itās āstraight acrossā on the other two guys so Iām wondering
It may well be, but I canāt say for certain until track and tunnel testing.
In CdA, there are two factors and there is always a trade off from a certain point.
To close the gap and make it straight, I need to come up higher at the front. That may well decrease my coefficient of drag, yet will also likely increase my frontal area (A).
It is always this game you play with the position.
Also:
This chap has a similar gapā¦ donāt know if for better or for worseā¦
Bought my first TT bike last year after a few years of competing on a road bike.
Tubs: what should I be getting? Usually Iāve bought veloflex masters with latex tubes but Iāve got a set of second hand carbon tubular wheels which look like they need new tyres, a bit lost at sea here!
