I found some pictures and couldn’t find what they did with the cables from the top of the lowers to the caliper but it was definitely still external from the bars to the top of the lowers.
You could do internal for the lockout (but at the high end FA takes care of that) but for the brake you can’t go internal down to the caliper because of the telescoping part of the fork. You’d still have to go external of all that.
Does anyone know the weight of a pair of stock wheels off an Epic 8 Comp is? Google is not finding me the answer. Maybe is 2300 grams, based on a weight weenies thread, but that seems super heavy, and the poster wasn’t explicit that that was the weight of the wheels.
Thanks
It looks like it should be this wheelset.
Weight: Wheelset 1,648g, Front 768g, Rear 880g (excluding 15g, tubeless rim tape and tubeless valve)
Thanks, those look to be the same rim (albeit in a 28 hole rather than 32 hole), but then different hubs. Still, that would put the factory wheels at a reasonable weight (maybe 1800-1900 grams?). I’d got in in my mind that they were really heavy, but actually they’re doable (if around 1800 grams).
For reference, the Epic 8 Comp wheels look to be:
Rims: Specialized Alloy 29, 27mm internal width, tubeless
Front Hub: Specialized alloy front hub disc, sealed cardridge bearings, 6-bolt, 15x110mm thru-axle, 32h
Rear Hub: Alloy, sealed cartridge bearings, 12x148mm thru-axle, 32h
Spokes: DT Swiss Industry
That’s actually a pretty impressive weight for an alloy wheelset. Only a couple hundred grams heavier than many of the carbon options out there.
I have to imagine they were similar to the wheels I pulled off my Epic Evo 7 a few years ago. Feel they were around 1800-2,000 grams. When I put my Stans Valor, ray/ralph on, I think it dropped close to two pounds.
I’ve been riding an Epic 8 Evo with Sram Transmission since late summer. I thought the slow shifting complaints sounded overblown but I haven’t been impressed and the slow shifts are starting to bother me. This is a GX drivetrain, are XO/XX any faster?
I don’t think they are any faster. There has been a firmware update recently that is supposed to speed up shifting a bit, have you downloaded/installed it?
I’ve had transmission for 2 years and haven’t had any complaints on shift speed. I think there is some technique in getting it to jump quicker than just slamming a bunch of rapid shifts or using the long press to get it up or down the cassette.
I also don’t find myself in many situations where I’m caught unsuspecting about having to make major up or downshifts.
I did install the update, hard to tell if it improved it TBH
I don’t have it myself so I can’t say for sure but I have read and seen videos where people talk about and demonstrate that if you click the gears one at a time it will shift faster than if you hold the button down and sort of ‘queue’ them up.
I do single shifts and never do long button presses, maybe that’s my issue?
Yep, the fastest way get through the cassette is with quick and steady clicks, they just can’t be too quick. If you do a very rapid input of multiple clicks (like 6-7 in under a second), it will blow through the first 3 of them, but then pause for each successive shift that has been queued up. Frankly, I find it dumb that it shifts slower when you click faster. If the RD allows a certain shift speed when clicking through the gears (which is plenty fast), it should at least match that speed when I enter 6-10 shifts in rapid succession. In my testing, it seems like anything faster than about 3 shifts per second starts the pausing behavior, but the shifts match the click speed as long as you don’t go faster than that. Honestly, it’s more of an annoyance than a real problem. But it’s just dumb behavior in my opinion. My best guess on why they program it this way is for e-bike use where you may want to slow roll the shifts at times, but who knows.
Fair point. I haven’t ridden in that area but would consider where I ride fairly punchy. I also know where all the ups and downs are so I’m planning not reacting.
From what I hear about little sugar I could see that being a PITA if you are jumping up and down the cassette regularly, especially racing something blind
Nostalgia?
I can understand the desire to drop weight and I know some people prefer the way eagle shifts compared to transmission, but I’m surprised you prefer the old B gap adjustment using a screw. What did you like better about it compared to the adjustment/setup for transmission?
The “B” screw was just one of the positives IMO. I had my T type setup dialed in pretty good but any little slide out or bump seemed to cause a misalignment issue and I just don’t Ike the Friction based system.
The major reason for the change was my plan to use smaller rear cassettes and utilize the many spare eagle parts I already had.
Same, it’s the one thing I don’t miss ha!
So apparently we’re supposed to keep mashing while shifting with Transmission? Could instinctively laying off the power while shifting be magnifying the gear change delay?
Just to say that I recently changed from a 125mm dropper to one with 100mm travel and, with the shorter one, I cannot understand what is the benefit of the infinite adjustment. For these shorter travels I would much rather have a simpler, lighter, more reliable 2 position mechanism. Infinite positions are nice for 150mm and above droppers, but horses for courses.
End of rant
