I have 4 sets of DT180’s and have beat the ever living hell out of them, including two trips to Lutsen where they basically got submerged over and over again and did get some water and mud ingress.
Hubs are easy to service, bearings easy to clean and re-pack. Quite honestly they haven’t missed a beat. So far I’d have a hard time buying anything else.
“I’ve never used them but I know they’re crap” is a pretty poor take…
Fair, my assumption would be that they were less durable than 240 bearing which in my experience were not very good. But looks like that might not be the case, and yes dt hubs are easy to service for sure
I’ve got 240 hubs on some nox wheels that are about 8 years old. Original bearings other than finally replacing the rears last season. Certainly 40k+ miles, including some really nasty wet/gritty conditions. The design is simple to work on, but getting that lockring loose from drive side rear was serious business. Maybe the toughest fastener I’ve ever dealt with. Heat, penetrating oil, had to weld up my own tool, vise, big impact wrench, etc. I think the age and conditions made it particularly tough, lots of youtube videos showing it coming out much easier.
And I’ve got 240 hubs on road bikes with original bearing and 60k+ miles. Not as much grit, but plenty of wet. It’s a good design and they use good bearings (in my opinion). Or at least they used to use good bearings, I haven’t bought 240 hubs in the last 8 years.
Granted my hubs weren’t old enough to be locked up, but this thing has been worth it’s weight in gold in my shop. Way more oomph than I ever would have expected from cordless. Getting the cranks off to service them takes about as long as it does to pull the trigger…
I concur… 240’s and even 350’s are hard to beat. I’m too poor for 180’s but assume they can only be better!
lockring tool on a vise and wheel with tires installed is how I removed them. maybe I was unlucky with my dt240, after replacing the bearings with ones I got from phill woods the DT hub was trouble free for countless miles! definitely happy with DT other than that original issue with the bearings
Almost everyone else have (for comfort) had wheels with 24 spokes or less, so for this to be a modern alternative DT Swiss first needs to release MTB hubs with less than 28 spokes.
Going to get some ride time before making much for changes to fit, this basically matches my BMC TwoStroke for fit which feels pretty dialed for me.
Weight came in at 25lbs 7oz no pedals, with tubes installed.
ETA, the scalpel just went on sale for $7,600…
Those DUB cranksets don’t stand a chance!
What’s the most “reasonable” way to get a FA equipped Epic 8 bike? Would it be finding an Expert/Comp on sale? Seems like the Pros aren’t getting discounted much. Buying a frame/building?
I don’t know what the cheapest Epic 8 build costs but where I live there is practically no second hand market and I didn’t want to deal with selling almost the whole bike for pennies on the dollar… So I bought an evo frame. Got 10% off and had all the parts except FA shock and fork. That was „cheap“ considering how much an s-works with FA costs.
It depends on what you like on each build, but I bought an expert and added FA, axs dropper, carbon bar, and xxsl powermeter crank. It’s pretty much how I would build the bike from skratch if I could hand pick everything. functionally equivalent to an sworks, just a little heavier. But with stronger wheels and without the dumb headset cable routing.
If you can find a good enough deal on an evo 8, that is the same frame and FA can be added.
Oh interesting: for some reason I thought the Evo frame was different. Is it just the suspension?
You can buy the frame for $2500 and add on FA shock and fork as a discounted bundle at pro bike supply.
Evo frame is just like 100grams heavier, same bike. the shock makes no difference since it has to be completely replaced anyway. so you then have a Epic 8, non evo with FA 120/120.
Ari updated the Signal Peak
I think it depends on color. My white Evo frame size L was 2291g with the og shock:
I believe that’s a bit more than 100g but personally at 100kg system weight I don’t care about 200g weight difference on the frame.
I’m excited to here what folks experience with this are as the geo works for me.
Spec is claiming 2.13 for the new 26 gloss swork frames with seatpost included. 2.21 for your frame all M size, no seatpost which is claimed to be 180 grams. I’m not sure if there is a sidluxe / fox shock weight difference. But yes seems like 260 grams ignoring the shock weight.
I want a red sid ultimate 
if we are lucky it will take around 2 years for Rockshox to make it available to the public
