I’m interested in your experiences as you ride these because I’m in a nearly identical spot - new Blur TR with Reserve wheels. My old bike had wheels that were about as stiff as possible but also 2k+ total weight, so the Reserves do feel quite a bit quicker being about 1 lb. total and 100 g per rim lighter. I’m curious whether another pound/100 g makes a similar difference or if there is a point of diminishing returns (in terms of feel, not performance - lighter is lighter, obviously).
Same as me, I have xc 28 with 1/1 hubs, can shave ~300-400 grams depending on how I build the wheelset, that’s wuite a bit of weight
Has anyone ridden / raced an Epic Evo (7) and can comment in any tangible differences between the Low and High flip chip setting?
I ordered mine directly with Nextie and not via the website (which the website will let you choose these options now) so I outlined exactly what I wanted (decals and spoke type etc). You most likely have the NXTCS05 spokes which should net you a wheelset weight of 1018g where I opted for the NXTCS02 (Thicker carbon) spokes due to my size and riding style which was to net me a wheelset weight of 1040g. When you had ordered your wheelset the NXTCS02 was out of stock and the NXTCS05 was just released so they probably upgraded you.
Nextie really has a lot of options and can build pretty much whatever you want, I would be more than happy to help anyone navigate their catalog if they would like.
Are these safe for down country and is there a weight limit?
wondering how accurate this is
" * Max Jump Height: Rider Weight < 90Kg: 45cm ; Rider Weight > 90Kg: 35cm" those carbon spokes wouldn’t survive long, but at the same time they are supposed to be stronger than the CX
Out of curiosity where are you seeing this information? I’m only able to find center tensile strength.
It’s on their carbon spoke page under specs tab
I can’t tell much of difference, just left it in low. I did change the front fork to a 110, so it may be close to what the high setting would be.
Thank you for sharing!
I would assume that the Sapim CX Ray falls under the same stress/loads as that then, and how I read that it is talking about (1) spoke vs a wheelset of spokes (maybe 2-3 are always in contact and taking the load?).
That is great information though!
Looking at the Sapim spec sheets they call for a tensile strength of 1600 N/mm2
I never know how much I can believe in those “jump” stuff, in the past I used to have a Yeti SB66 and the user manual said the bike wasn’t made/supposed to do jumps, last I saw that was a 160mm travel bike used in which Jared Graves won an Enduro World Series 
Following up on this:
My Epic 8 is about to be finished (until FA arrives that is). Looking forward to never having to wrap a frame in ride wrap again. 0/10 would rather hike up a mountain pass with a loaded bike. White frame, black cats, hair and lint everywhere, toddler running around and wanting to help daddy clean the bike
In need of an extended ride after this project is wrapped up
You’ve convinced me, I am 100% finding and paying a shop to do the frame I have coming in 
I assume it isn’t as bad if the bike isn’t built up and worked on already. And also, if you have a non-white S-works. And if you don’t have kids. And no cats. And a lot of patience 
Ride wrap didn’t have the Epic 8 when I bought my bike and I built it up without any frame protection. Only ordered the whole frame protection set when I saw Jonathans S-works with ride wrap.
I did it once and I’ll gladly pay for someone else to do it. A shop charged me out the ass for my last wrap and i’ll still take it over doing it myself.
Is it just the bike specific tailored protection installs that are the pain? or are the covered or essential protection wraps that cover much smaller percentage of the bike still a faff to get on?
Highly doubt they’ll ever do a tailored protection option for my bike (not popular enough) so the lesser coverage ones would be my only option. RideWrap does have an install location close by me in Golden though so I could have them do it directly if that’s still worth it.
I’ve never bothered with it before, but you all got me thinking and I looked closely at my old bike, a 2019 Oiz, and man is that frame covered in paint scratches.
i can only speak for me but the aligning wasn’t my biggest issue. That’s pretty straight forward imho. I have a white frame and you can see every bubble, every tiny piece of lint or dust and that’s what was driving me crazy. Sometimes the bubbles won’t go away and I had to redo some pieces a couple of times, essentially taking 20-30min for some pieces to finally be acceptably accurate.
I think if you have an afternoon for yourself, some good music for vibes and a beer or cbd it’ll be fine.
ha - so never gonna happen for me. I have a 2 and 5 year old, 2 dogs, and a wife who tolerates my riding but isn’t a fan of me spending the time I’m not riding doing more bike projects.
Now I’m just debating if it’s still worth having RideWrap due one of the reduced coverage options or if I should just rawdog it like my previous bike and live with the consequences.
I‘d say do the chainstays (outside) and the top tube and go ride. It’s probably not worth the hassle and I wouldn’t do it a second time tbh…