Maxxis Aspens, Kenda Sabres
Are XC tires typically compatible with hookless rims? I know there’s alot of talk about compatibility on the road side of things, but I thought hookless was more common for MTB.
MTB tubeless is dialed at this point, road is still a little off from what I can tell. To answer your question, yes, any high quality tire is going to come tubeless ready, aka hookless compatibile. XC or otherwise.
Looking to get the Racing Ray/Thunder Burt combo. Can anyone elaborate on the difference in feel/rolling resistance between the Super Ground and Super Race versions?
Will mostly be riding flowy single trail with roots and very little stones or technical features.
The SuperRace with the tan wall is very supple in the side wall. More so than the black rubber versions I have.
I have used both and can’t really tell a difference but the Super Race looks cool in Tanwall a little lighter and a layer less protection although I have never had a puncture with them.
Why does Maxxis recommend Rekon Race as a rear-only tire? Yet all of the XC bikes that spec them brand new have them both front and rear. The aspen seems to roll better than the rekon race as a rear tire, is lighter, and to me, the rekon race also has more grip up front. Even the performance ratings on the Maxxis site gives a higher cornering and braking rating to the rekon race vs the aspen.
Updating: not long after the post above the fast track punctured for no apparent reason and check it back at home I noticed a small piece ripped off. Those tire were done for me. Luckily the Schwalbes were back in stock but not on an ideal combination: Performance compound, 2.25 and Racing Ray only. Got two of those and not I am running them at 18 (f) and 20 (b) psi.
I can now confidently say that a relevant aspect that makes fast tracks not ideal for me is that the side knobs are tapered, which goes against my old tires and so I unconscious rely on them.
btw: any easy ways of getting dried sealant off the tire? There has to be a better way than prying it off with fingers and/or a piece of plastic.
Edit: forgot to mention I have some Nukeproof ARD on the way. The extra grip from lower tire pressure is addictive.
I don’t see any reason to run anything other than an Aspen 2.4 exo, aside from mud. Even then, I did the Barn Burner 100 last year, and the last lap was nothing but torrential rain, and my tires were the least of my concerns.
How’s your Burt going?
I did a course recon the past weekend with my Ray and Ralph. Part of me wishes I’d had the Burt to trial given how crazy dry it is. I washed out the Ray a couple of times, but mostly user error.
I wouldn’t want to go less grip on the front and the Ray is such a good pattern and compound. I wish the Barzo was as grippy compound wise as the Schwalbe’s, it’s got just that much more grip from the pattern (I think).
Not that I am aware of. Although I have found that some tires are worse than others. My Nobby Nics didn’t appear to pick up as much sealant as other tires.
I’ve given up on trying to get the tire clean of old sealant - other than any really big pieces, or sealant on the bead that prevents the tire from seating when first inflating.
I’ve thought about trying a very light coating of something like WD40 inside the tire - but that might prevent the sealant from actually doing its job binding to the tire to seal holes.
Skip the WD40, grab a very stiff bristle brush (Clorox with white and blue bristles) and do several passes with very hot and soapy water. A little soaking in the hot and soapy water in a bucket also helps. Microfiber wipe after a combo of those and they will be like new. Swapped 3 different sets of tires back and forth all through this past CX season per above with a little elbow grease worked like a charm.
First impressions are very good! The Ray on the front is just perfect for my riding. Like you, I really wouldn’t want a less grippy tire on the front especially in winter season.
The Burt definately rolls much better than the Ikon and it handled itsself ok-ish in the muddy conditions. Couple moments where it slid away, but that was easy to control. For winter riding I’d probably go with a Ralph on the back, but as I hate switching out tires and our trails aren’t that technical the Burt is just fine. I expect it to shine once the trails dry out. I wouldn’t recommend the Burt if there are technical wet/rooty climbs on your trails though. You’ll lose grip very fast.
I just raced on the new Renegade t5 2.35 and its fast yet really good contract. It took a little bit to get use to it but I’m really liking the tire so far as a rear.
Are you using the Renegade on the front too?
Has anyone taken a Durometer to their tyres for comparison?
I might have to see if I can get a cheap one Durometer for interests sake. I enjoy trying different tyres and it might prove interesting/useful.
Fast trak 2.35 T5 front
I just put on Racing Ray / Racing Ralph 2.35 on i25 rims. At 190 pounds I don’t really like them. They are squirmy. Running 25 PSI rear, 21 PSI front with inserts.
Which inserts?
Tubolight EVO SL with Superground Scwable casing.
Barzo / Mezcal in 2.35 with TNT sidewalls works well for me usually. I can usually get away with 23.5 psi rear (with inserts) and 19-20psi front. And they hold up really really well.