I ordered that one. Very keen to see your results ![]()
It seems quite functional and adequate. I didn’t even bother with the supplied tension chart though.
I am calculating the #s for my specific gauge and the specific spokes I’m using, probably going to take readings from 60-125kg, in 5kg increments.
I had thought about comparing the ztto against a park tool gauge, as you mentioned. It seems like the park tool ones drift with use though, so instead of that being my calibration reference, I made this rig.
I have had Shimano hubs on my mountain bikes since my first mountain bike. I have never ever serviced one or had it serviced by a bike shop. They have been dead reliable and completely “boring” as a product — they have just worked. Currently, my mountain bike has very shiny, fancy XTR hubs. Unless you need an XD(R) driver or so, I’d have no issue recommending Shimano hubs.
I ended up ordering DT Swiss, but I do keep wishing I had the XTR rear for the near silent freewheeling.
Great choice, an embarrassment of riches. I think DT Swiss hubs have an edge if you want to upgrade them to have e. g. more engagement points.
Brilliant!
Think I’ll copy that idea and build my own for my park tool knock off tension meter!
One of my carbon rims cracked and I have a warranty rim on the way. The hub and spokes on the original are still good and I’m considering ordering a rim to learn how to build wheels. What tools and fixtures do I need?
- Wheel truing stand
- Dish tool (Park Tool, Venzo)
- Spoke wrenches (four sided, three sided)
- Nipple driver
- Bladed spoke holder
- Tension meter (Park Tool, NineFox)
(I read the thread above and the Jobst book and understand that this isn’t necessarily required)
I would say the Dishing tool is optional.
It’s pretty easy to achieve this with just a ruler.
What truing stand do you use? Include links if you can, please. I see some for as little as $50 but then the Park Tools upper end at $350+. Thanks!
The Park Tool stand is probably the best. I have tried the cheap ones, and they have been too flimsy. Biggest problem being that the feeler gauges move around etc.
I find the feedback sports truing stand to be the best bang for buck. It is all metal and sturdy. There is no play anywhere. It can handle all types of hub without buying anything else. It can true rotors also. Only downside I see, is that you have to flip the wheel to true both sides.
https://www.feedbacksports.com/product/pro-truing-stand-2-0/
What sites do you purchase rims, spokes, and nipple from? Thanks!
I’ve ordered my Duke rims and spokes from R2.
Nipples from a store called Just Riding Along in the UK
I am about to lace a replacement rim that does not have spoke holes but cannot find a small magnet core to insert into the nipples to pull them through the valve hole to the nipple hole. Does anyone know where to order a magnet core for 0.130" (3.30mm) (SW-1 green Park Tool wrench) sized nipples, or hacks?
what?
AFAIK you just thread a snipped piece of spoke into the nipple, which is then attracted by the magnet you are using to guide it to the hole.
I don’t have an old spoke since I’m replacing a cracked rim. Maybe I just need to order some additional spokes.
I would go to LBS if possible then, and ask if they could sell you a single spoke or give you a broken one if they have.
Also I can’t say for sure since i’ve not tried myself, but internet is showing that a 2-56 screw would fit, so a small steel button head screw may work. (from fastenal or the hardware store)
@Pottery great suggestion! LBS gave me an old spoke. I cut it off at the threads and wrapped a little bailing wire around one end for some additional steel for the magnet to grab. Worked like a charm! Wheel is laced. Now I need to true it.

I like your DIY wheel stand! Did you find the plans for that online?
What rim did you go with?
@MikeMckinney the plans are from Roger Musson’s Professional Guide to Wheel Building. There is a link up above to purchase it.
My dad does wood working and is retired, so I asked him to build it for me. (He also built my Rockit Plate from @mcneese.chad’s plans.)
The rim is a Light Bicycle R55. It is a warranty replacement since the original cracked when I was inflating a tire.
This is a super simple rim to lace since there are no crossed spokes, but I’ve almost got it dialed in. I’m going to let it sit overnight for any residual stresses to settle, then hopefully finish tomorrow.

