I honestly dont understand the dislike of press fit BB’s when you can always swap in a thread together replacement form Wheels Manufacturing (or elsewhere).
I take your point, but potentially having to swap a bottom bracket (which is an upgrade with Wheels Manufacturing for example) wouldn’t push me away from an otherwise well spec’d and well reviewed bike.
I’ve had half a dozen pressfit frames, none creaked.
It took bike shop mechanics a over decade to figure out that you shouldn’t grease the bearing in a press fit setup, that’s really the source of most of the creaks. Now that everyone has it figured out, they moved to T47 (which is worse IMO).
Getting back on topic, if @Dallin_M would add some requirements, some of us might be able to offer some decent advice better than “This is what I have…”. Here are just a few that come to mind:
Budget
Drivetrain preference (SRAM vs Shimano, 2x vs 1x)
Current ride experience and/or preference for ride quality & handling. Relates to geometry, tire capability and even possible “suspension” options.
Desire for this bike to be used just for the Tushar, or other future use considerations (mixed road and gravel use, more MTB focused, etc.).
Most of the recommendations I’ve seen to this point are lacking any reason or justification stated. If you offer a suggestion… the “Why” behind that suggestion would be worth including. It’s not particularly useful for someone to filter through when they get 10+ bikes listed and no reason to differentiate their choice over any other.
This essentially should parallel the sales process for any customer walking onto the floor. Per the Trek mentality, we collect “dots” as data points of interest from the customer. This requires asking several questions and adapting based upon those answers to fine tune pending questions. Pull that together and then a salesperson can offer suggestions with all that prior data in mind. It’s not great to offer a suggestion with the minimal info shared at this point (3 reference bikes considered and one target event with nothing else to consider from the OP).
At this point, the color recommendation at the top (a multi-level joke) is just as valid
My personal experience with Salsa and their Pressfit bb housing is that the cups are bang on within specified tolerences and not misaligned at all. The problem isn’t pressfit, its how closely the standard is adhered to and executed (tolerence wise). Salsa’s manufacturing of their frames has been noteably good.
They’re all the same hamburger for the most part. Don’t over think it. If you can fit 40c tires, that’s great for most soft-roading with the exception of a few specific events/locals.
I’d get the Orbea/Trek Domane/Checkpoint for the downtube storage as that would impact your daily use of it. I’d look at the Domane/ Boone for a gravel bike that feels like a road bike with road tires, as most of the gravel bikes have longer front ends now (but still work fine). The Boone is basically a Domane with Emonda geo and details but without the downtube box and extra cage mounts.
Pick the tire clearance, chainring clearance, fit geometry, handling geometry, and color you want. I found the neon one that fit road rings and 45mm tires.
I own a 2021 Cervelo Aspero, and it’s by far my favorite bike. Before this I owned a 2021 Trek Emonda SL7 and a 2020 Giant Revolt Advanced 0. The Aspero isn’t as smooth as the revolt and it doesn’t have as many bike packing mount options, but it’s much more of a gravel race bike. And it scratches the road itch enough that I don’t feel like I need a road bike, I can just toss road wheels onto the Aspero.
There is a Cervelo Aspero just over OP’s posted budget of 4,000. I’d definitely add it to the list of gravel bikes to consider.
I also have an Aspero and agree. It’s a great bike for someone that wants a dual road and gravel bike and doesn’t want fenders or racks. Biggest downside to me is that it’s definitely quite stiff, stiffer than my 2012 Madone. For a gravel bike, that’s not ideal.
That’s true, but that’s part of why I like it. My revolt was more comfortable, but never felt like a “race bike”. The Aspero has the right feel. I was doing a lot of gravel racing in the Southeast US (and lived on a mountaintop gravel road) and I wish I had the Aspero the entire time. Shortest event on it was 3.5 hours and the longest was 9. Really chunky stuff and single track would get me a little nervous, but everywhere else it felt better.
Wondering if I can hijack this thread to ask for people’s thoughts on the Poseidon X and Redwood. I’m looking for an entry level gravel bike so that I can participate in group rides and maybe an occasional gravel or cyclocross race. I also want something that I can tow my son’s bike trailer with on the local fire roads. Very minimal to no road use unless it’s built into an event. If I were to get serious about gravel events then I’d probably find myself upgrading to an Aspero since I use a Soloist on the road and want to “keep it in the family”.
I’m also looking for a gravel bike for my wife so that we can do occasional family rides. She really doesn’t do any regular exercise except when I drag her out for hikes. She’s pretty paranoid about a bike not having a step-through frame but I’ve tried to convince her that once she’s used to mounting an appropriately sized frame that’ll be a non-issue.
The Redwood model seemed like it could be a good fit for both of us but wasn’t sure if I should actually consider the X for my purpose (or maybe both of our’s). Or whether you guys think another bike would better fit the bill.
How is pressfit bad design? Press-fits/interference fits are used across a myriad industries with minimal issues. the design isn’t the problem, its the corner-cutting and lack of attention to detail during manufacture.
Cutting threads to be concentric and aligned properly isnt as easy as people think either, your bike may not creak, doesnt mean those bearings are aligned though. which will cause unnecessary drag
As a basic and even well implemented concept, PF BB can and does work.
The issue is that the bike industry has a very spotty record of implementing it in millions of bikes. Simply search for “creaky BB” and you will find countless examples of bikes the develop loud and annoying BB noise. Some in very short life with proper use and not necessarily abuse.
When done well, PF works. When done poorly, it is a giant pain in the ass. Hack solutions aplenty from the very nice thread together pseudo threaded alternates to the worst of worse with JB weld, epoxy and other bad solutions to worn and/or bad tolerance BB’s.
This boils down to a good idea done poorly in far too many instances, and is the reason you see a recoil in many people when PF is mentioned.
I would also add that it may also be a case of taking a proven concept and applying it to an area where it is just not appropriate. BB shells are exposed to really harsh conditions and it doesn’t take much to get contaminants in there. Combine with the points Chad makes and you get the current situation.
Sure, PF is used in a lot of different applications in the world…but that doesn’t mean it is appropropriate for this particular applicaiton.