I disagree with so many things here. You definitely nailed the theme of this thread 
Right? Almost every single individual bullet point contradicts my lived experience of the past few years on my Giant Revolt with 1x SRAM Force AXS (10-50 cassette) and 700x50c tires. It’s actually pretty impressive. I drip wax my chain maybe once a week, wash my bike every 2-4 weeks whether it needs it or not, and that’s about it. I can’t even remember the last time I had to adjust my rear derailleur.
I’m with @DomCon here!
I’ve got a 12-speed XT group on my XC bike and absolutely love it, BUT, I also have an old 1993 MTB that I’ve turned into a commuter/townie with the old Deore XT 3 x 7 and I’ve actually been loving using the front derailleur on that thing. It’s so easy to make a quick shift into a much bigger/smaller gear when approaching/cresting a hill, and the gaps in the back aren’t massive, even for a 7-speed!
There are some builds that I’d consider 1x for, but they are pretty niche! 
I’ve swapped from 1x to 2x on my gravel bike and of course am on 2x on the road. That said most of your points seem to suggest you prefer 2x on MTB, which I can’t get behind in any way.
Nonetheless I salute your bullet points and willingness to have incorrect opinions in bold font, very much in the spirit of the thread!
My 1x10 used to be 3x8 (Sora), but I could not get the FD to shift to save my life.
My tandem is 3x10 and it does alright (the RD is finicky, no issues with the FD), but it’s the only bike I’d consider switching to electronic shifting. 2x12 would be quite nice, I think.
An old coworker of mine had a titanium Seven tandem with Di2. Him and his wife loved it.
Checked dropout alignment, or is it a cable issue?
Nope, never snapped one. And, as for a course, I do all the maintanence for our 8 bikes and I’ve looked aftrer my own bikes for more than 40 years
I love hydros! Mechanicals, on the other hand, seem to be more faf than rim but without the power and modulation of hydros
Fantastic! Thanks, man. If only one person gets the joke then it’s worth it
Once everybody gets on 29” wheels and 1x, ad copy will start selling the virtues of smaller lighter stiffer faster accelerating wheels and electric 2x. 29 and 1x still has legs though so for now everybody knows it’s better.
Joe
My new unpopular opinion is that push-fit bottom brackets are actually perfectly fine and don’t creak at all.
Everyone has creaky shimano hollowtech cranks and push-fit bottom brackets are getting all the blame.
This is based on my extensive N=1 experience
Some of my unpopular opinions:
- mech disc brakes on gravel bikes suck and shouldn’t be sold in 2024
- xc hardtails are more capable than people think and they are negatively stereotyped by people who have never ridden one
- Pas Normal Studios is wank
- 35mm stems on mtb suck and make bikes too twitchy at slow speeds
Hear hear!
All Ebikes should have a wheelie mode. You hit a small button on the handlebar and the front kicks up. The motor automatically throttles power to maintain the wheelie. Otherwise what is the point of an ebike.
Mech disc brakes are fine if you’ve developed hand strength (from using mech disc brakes) and you’ve used compression-less housing and have set them up well with good pads. And your brakes are from one of the handful of manufacturers that make decent mech disc brakes.
Okay maybe they do suck lol. But I find my TRP spyre brakes are actually quite good unless it gets very very steep, and I still tend to be in front of the pack descending on gravel (I always joke it’s because my brakes don’t actually work).
That being said I swapped to hydraulics because they are simply better.
I’ve ridden one. I guess they are ok for gravel roads and tame trails. Don’t understand why you need 160mm of travel on a hard tail though.
Do you typically grip the hoods, or the drops? I did the opposite: I went from 105 hydraulics to TRP Spyre SLC. The problem I experienced with hydraulic brakes is too much freeplay in the lever (no freeplay adjustment on 105), & panicking because of being unable to find the bite point when a corner was quickly approaching on a downhill or when someone braked or swerved in front of me. I ride mostly in the drops so freeplay is a problem but leverage is not. I’ve never had trouble popping an endo on a road bike with rim brakes & alloy brake surfaces. Now I have one less messy job to have to carry out. 
I set the barrel adjusters on both rim brakes & cable discs so that the tips of the levers have about 2-3mm of travel before the pads bite.
If someone test-drove a car with a brake pedal whose first half of its travel was free-play, they probably wouldn’t buy it, or would do so with a view to getting it fixed ASAP, so it seems strange that it’s considered okay on bicycles. Any motorcyclists able to comment?
I ride mostly on the hoods but i descend in the drops. The free play isn’t something isn’t something I notice. But yeah one thing I enjoyed about the TRPs was how much you can adjust them so that they ride exactly how you want.