I have seen X0 transmission cranks with power meter on Facebook marketplace in the $225-300 range. You can get those and a 0 mm offset chain ring from wolftooth and you are set. 
The 0 offset chainring moves the chainline in the wrong direction. You need a -6mm offset. Wolftooth doesn’t sell an 8 bolt -6 chainring.
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Shhhh don’t reveal my z-list bicycle celebrity status to the world 
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I have literally no idea what this means but I shall investigate, thank you!
#notblessedwithmechanicalknowledge
I haven’t seen any secondhand 165 mm sets for sale here in the UK, yet, but I shall keep looking, thanks 
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I’ll default to you. I thought I remembered reading a 0mm chainring going from 55 to 52… but I must have got it mixed up. Thanks for the clarification.
After the weekend’s audax ride in which I was babying a shifting system for 300km because in the right shifter I intermittently couldn’t feel or hear clicks & shifting was sometimes slow, this afternoon I checked the cable & yep, it was frayed inside the shifter, with two threads separated from the rest of the cable, potentially interfering with the ratchet, so perhaps some damage was done. 
At least (for now) with the new cable it’s operating correctly.
Before installing the new cable I decided it was about time the bike had a more thorough clean than it usually gets, so together with the usual I sank the chain in a petrol bath & rebuilt the RD (yes I took them both off). When reinstalling the chain I couldn’t help but think of this thread. 
The chain is threaded correctly through the derailleur. Thanx for the reminder! But yes I have made that mistake too.
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Installed a new SRAM Transmission Cassette on my XDR freehub last night. Read the literature backwards and thought I didn’t need a spacer behind the cassette. To make matters worse, I torqued it with my 1/2" torque wrench thats about 2ft long, so I didn’t feel when I transitioned from tightening to stripping threads.
When the spacer arrives in a couple of days I’ll find out if I ruined like $300 worth of parts. Actually kind of crazy that the lock ring on these cassettes isn’t replaceable. Glad I bought the GX cassette and didn’t splurge on a $400-600 cassette.
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since 165 cranks are all the rage right now I’d just buy a XX1 DUB crankset with the quarq spider and sell off the old crank & chainring. Might be much more cost effective than buying faveros and converting them. Quarq carbon cranks + PM spider is about 700€ + shipping and whatever you guys pay in the UK as VAT. minus the money you get from selling the old crnaks vs 750€ for the Assioma Pro MX duo + import duties and postage.
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This is why I never understood threaded cassettes. 
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It was warm and sunny today, a rarity around these parts. Hit the roads with a T-shirt and MTB helmet with a visor. Decided to work on the sock tan and slipped on some ankle socks. Cuz at this point… why not? 
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How did it turn out? I suspect fine. I’ve done this
many, many times over the years and never had any damage that I could identify. It’s such a silly mistake, I don’t know why I keep making it, but I did it again just a couple weeks ago.
I listen to what the pro’s do wayyy to much.
I run big chainrings to boost my ego even if it means I have to do 300w up every hill. Think 46t chainring 1x with a 44 out back. 15 to 20% gravel climbs are normal. But honestly, I started that way and now kinda like the gearing. I guess I always race up hills anyways. And as I get faster, a 46-10 becomes more used.
I will not fix things so I have an excuse to buy a new bike. I let my drivetrain get outdated and worn out. My wheels and so on. Then I say “well ill just buy a new bike” when I could just upgrade my parts.
For a person who makes less then minimum wage, I spend money on my bikes like I make 200k.
I think the argument of “It’s easier to work on” for things like axs and internal cable routing is dumb.
I judge people harshly for there bike set up. Like Titanium bike with deep carbon wheels. Judged.
I scroll through Pinkbike and buycyle like its instagram and just look at bike pics.
Finally, my hoods point down like 15 degree’s. And I ride on the very edge of them. Not sure why or how I started doing this but now level hoods feel pointed up and lazy.
I could go on but yeah.
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Yeah it turned out fine. The cassette is on there and the T-Type derailleur is working perfect.
The whole thing confuses me though. I realized the reason I missed the spacer, is because per SRAM’s spec an XDR driver needs a spacer for a GX cassette. However, the non T-Type GX cassette I was replacing also didn’t have a spacer. I wasn’t expecting the spacer configuration to change, hence why I just threw it on.
I took it by my local Giant dealer and they said to run it however it came from the factory… It’s on there with no spacer and works fine. I haven’t seen a spec from SRAM on exactly how much clearance there should be between cassette and deraillurer mount, but it works. 
It didn’t change, someone screwed up the old style GX Eagle cassette install also. And yeah, it seems to work without the spacer. When I missed the one a week or so ago, I ended up doing a group ride that night on it and didn’t even notice any bad shifting (and didn’t adjust anything). I didn’t realized I missed it until I was lying in bed that night and it dawned on me and I fixed it the next day. I’d think being off by that much would matter, but it seemed fine. But I was also riding on gravel, so maybe it was working but making noise and I just didn’t notice.
I use oil to lubricate my chain.
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I used sunflower oil in my fork lowers once
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Man, you came all win here heheheh
I reuse quick links.
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so do I
So do I. I’ve only broken one chain and it wasn’t at the reused quick link.