Hmmm, that sounds super odd…
My watts didn’t really go up or down, it was still steady, but it was a “chugging” feeling in the pedals, as if the magnetic resistance was pulsating the resistance instead of applying evenly, if that makes sense?
With large swings like that, it’s usually either a connection error, or the trainer is faulty.
Oddly enough I have a friend with the exact same issues on his Tacx that I was talking to just today.
Wait, so the actual resistance wasn’t changing for you, just the feeling? Even with power smoothing off? Weird. Did you ever compare with a second power meter to see if the watts were changing?
Well it depends a little how you view it.
I could feel some kind of change in the resistance, or the way it was applied rather. But no, it didn’t feel harder or easier.
So it was still keeping the watts, but something was off with the resistance feeling.
It was also very very noticeable when it was changing resistance, especially when going from maybe 200w to 300w.
Ok, so if I’m understanding correctly, what you’re experiencing is almost like a brake rub? Like, with each revolution, the resistance is tighter/looser in some spots.
Yeah you could say that, a pulsating feeling in the pedals, even if steady cadence/watts!
And since its magnetic resistance, it feels quite weird…
Following.
I had the same pulsating issues this morning during my ramp test. When I did my second workout following the ramp test the pulsating was still there. I noticed the gearing was in the startup small ring, when I switched to the big ring there was a noticeable difference to the better.
Have a look at my post above 
Email Wahoo and there is a firmware update that takes 5min to install, that fixes it. You update the firmware to some special one, then go back to the normal latest firmware, and then its done
When you’re having the “pulsating”, gently push forward on the left brake to see if it makes a difference. I was using a terry cloth covering on mine, and I found the slightest bit of pressure on the brake arm caused pulsation.
I use the Kickr bike and have never experienced this. Perhaps mine is doing the same but just don’t notice it???
Never had this issue in two years of ownership and 5000+ miles. Cadence usually around 90 but go as low as 60 for climbing drills and as high as 120 for sprints. No pulsating at all. Sounds like you have a fault - you shouldn’t have to be messing around with fixes and hacks. They should replace it.
It was a firmware issue can’t just replace something just because it’s a software issue, unless it’s not solvable.
Been flawless since the update!
Glad you fixed it 
‘Brake lever’ hack reminds me of when I was swearing at my f-ing KICKR bike mid workout when the power started spiking crazily. Like riding through glue. Couldn’t work out what was wrong. Then realised the brake levers were being nudged by my tray table…
Hi,
I purchased a(nother) Kickr Bike just before the festive period last year and had the stuttering/pulsating issue. I had found the instructions (similar to what you posted @Dubadai) … It worked a treat! Silky smooth flywheel from then on!
… But, I am currently trying to diagnose an issue with the power accuracy (post firmware update) as my Assioma DUO’s are reading between 4-6% lower than the bike. They are showing correct L/R balance and match as expected (within 1-2%) on the short efforts (<1min), but over the power curve there is a slight creep with the Assioma’s always tracking below the Bike.
The bike ‘feels’ accurate - as in it doesn’t feel like i’ve got a free 6% boost on my numbers - so I started with troubleshooting the DUO’s, but I have used another pair to double check and they also reported the same - hence why I’m now looking into the bike.
I am wondering if anyone - who has done this Firmware reset - has noticed any issues with power since? Perhaps the firmware reset somehow impacts the factory offset calibration or it recalibrates differently?
(any Dual recordings would be great)
Note: this may not be the case, just a process of elimination at the moment… and if anyone else is experiencing the pulsating flywheel then I’d definitely still recommend doing this as it does work.
By the way - I rolled back to firmware v200.26.2, then back onto 1.27… so I’m thinking I may do another reset and roll back to v 200.27.00 to see if this recalibrates more accurately?