Trek Checkpoint power meter options

Hey how is the 4iiii going on the right side? Cheers

Good thanks. Seems combarible with efforts on my wahoo kickr too

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I’m assembling a checkpoint and have the shimano dura ace dual sided power meter there’s just not enough clearance for the power meter. A 1mm spindle spacer will rectify the problem. Might run into rubbing when the frame gets dirty but I’ll take that over looking into other power meter options

How has the right side 4iii and stages setup been for you fine folk in terms of accuracy? I’m torn between that , a stages right, and or a quarq dfour dub (which will make a mess cosmetically).

No issues with my 4iiii. Seems very consistent and accurate in comparison with wahoo kickr and power2max data

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FWIW I have the roadlink DM and freaking love it. Let’s me use my 11-34 ultegra setup with my road wheels and an 11-40 XT on my gravel wheels, shifting is seemless on both. !

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You don’t have any chain length issues when changing wheel sets/cassette size?

well I am a relative n00b but not to my knowledge. Trek store set it all up quite impeccably and it works like a charm. The clutched derailer helps I imagine cause I get almost no chain slap on either setup.

the plot thickens. After a superb bike fitting it seems I need to go 167.5mm. Sadly Stages doesn’t make (or offer factory install) on this size so I’m pretty much limited to buying freaking dura ace and sending it to 4iii for the factory install. Anyone have any other suggestions?

I don’t see it mentioned above, so have you considered the Assioma pedal hack?

I have a 2020 SL5 that came with a 105. I upgraded to the GRX 800 drivetrain over the Covid pause. Turned out the 4iiii right-side factory install was all I could find that would fit. Accurate so far. Can’t speak to reliability, though. Reviews seem solid.

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Just get a 165 or 170. Those 2.5mm won’t make a difference in your life. If someone tells you different, they don’t know what they are talking about. The 2.5mm is 2.5mm in all directions, so its really a 5mm difference, but it’s still not a big difference. You can feel a 2 size difference (5mm), but 1 size is not worth discussing unless you’re in some exact TT position trying to keep your knees just off your belly. .

Ended up going Quarq ! Frankenbike but honestly it smokes and I’m stoked. Yes the 2.5mm might not be huge but it’s made a world of a difference being on 167.5. Def an attention getter with the ultegra gruppo, sram force arms and quarq spider :man_shrugging:t3:

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Upgraded to a new Checkpoint SL from a 3 year old Crockett that had my Quarq and Di2. Went on easily, with the only real headache being the need to change out the non-drive side bearing to a GXP one. The Quarq D-Zero fits perfectly with 46 x 34 chainrings and a 36t cassette in the back with zero modifications.

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I just did the hack, and guess what? Those pedals go on my checkpoint just fine :wink:

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I know there isn’t room on the aluminum checkpoints, but I’m looking at my SL5 with GRX and it sure seems like there is room for a power meter on the left side. Are my eyeball rulers that far off? It can fit the garmin cadence meter I have.

I think the general clearance rule is whether or not you have space for a triple-A battery (R03) around the midpoint of your crank arm.
With my SL5 with a GRX 810 2x, I know I had about 5-5.5mm clearance on the left. I didn’t bother trying spacers.

CORRECTION: I first tried a Stages gen-3 105 crank before I upgrade from the original 105 drivetrain to the GRX. That’s when I only had about 5mm of clearance. I was hoping the wider GRX q-factor plus spacers would give me enough room, at least for a factory install on the left. The GRX was wider but it was still too close.

I’m happy with the 4iiii on the right.