My own bike (2017 Cannondale Synapse in a size 58) is super comfy in geometry and serves me well as an all round bike.
There is no toe overlap with this bike, using 172.5mm cranks.
I’ve noticed on (some) rental bikes I’ve used, most recently a Canyon ultimate, which is not their aggressive race bike, that the equivalent size frame leads to me seeing toe overlap with the front wheel of around an inch or so.
I was considering an Aeroad as an option for a new bike but am now concerned I may need to go a size (or two?) up which affects a lot of other things in terms of weight / reach etc.
I’m guessing it’s simply a consequence of different manufacturers having different geometries?
Does anyone have any recommendations for alternatives to the Aeroad (similar type of bike) that might have a more stretched out geometry that leads to less likelihood for overlap?
Or, am I looking for something that doesn’t exist- IE aero bike that has no toeverlap for the right frame size for me?
Not sure if it helps, but I’ve never even remotely considered toe overlap when buying a new bike or frame. It has 0% influence on my choices. I don’t even know why it would.
I guess my reflection of this fair challenge is that I’ve never experienced it before, and found it quite annoying / disconcerting when moving more slowly on the bike and making tighter turns. It manifested less at higher speeds where the angle of turn was a lot less (naturally).
It may have been just a one-off product of the specific Canyon bike I rented, but it was quite ‘bad’ in my experience and a couple of times led to me having to unclip or I’d have fallen off due to the front wheel catching badly.
I’d never had this on any bike before (I’ve rented or borrowed well over 20 different bikes of varying makes when on holiday trips over the last decade) and so it got be wondering and led to me asking the forum for guidance and help.
Seems to be the case that for Canyon, the equivalent sized bike (going to their website and putting in my dimensions to give the solution bike size of Large) to my current bike, comes in with a shorter wheelbase and shorter ‘front-centre’ - however going up a size to the XL seems to go the other way by a reasonable amount.
IE: my current framed Cannondale sits squarely in the middle of their L and XL frames - so problem solved.
Just commenting so you don’t start second guessing yourself. I’ve had the exact same problem as you did. Disconcerting toe overlap at low speeds that disappears at higher speeds due to the angles the front wheel can be turned. It’s particularly annoying when you’re climbing on steep stuff, trying to stay motivated, and bounce your toe off the front wheel. I do wear a 48/49 shoe, so I’m sure that has some impact too.
I’m also in the camp of being disconcerted by it when it happens. Usually trackstanding at lights. I naturally stand left foot forward & in Australia the road camber usually rises to the right, meaning the front wheel is turned right. I was pleasantly surprised when I bought my 2023 Orbea Avant to find it doesn’t have it.
And I saw a biker fall over trying to track stand at an intersection. I don’t think they had overlap issues but just weren’t able to show off without falling over.
I’ve got pretty large feet and tend to place my cleats far back. I don’t think I’ve ever had a road bike without significant toe overlap and never would have considered it being an issue (except maybe in those very rare situations where you end up on singletrack on your road bike). I personally wouldn’t make it a high priority buying criteria, but it sounds like opinions vary on this.
The things that are likely to affect toe overlap are (bike) reach, head tube angle, fork rake, shoe size, and cleat fore/aft position.
I have found that, over the years, head angles have generally become steeper, especially on ‘race’ bike (regardless of being an ‘aero’ or ‘climbing’ bike). I have also found that, over the years, toe overlap annoys me more and more. (Maybe because I ride more slowly with each passing year.)
I bought a Canyon Endurace a couple of years ago and it is the most comfortable bike I’ve ever ridden (in 40+ years of racing/riding). Slightly more relaxed head angle, and longer chainstays (but not as long as my gravel bike), so the descending feels very comfortable.
Specifically regarding Canyon: I have two (road and gravel), and their size calculator has said I should get a Small. However, upon actually trying them, I truly ride a M in both. So, if you are interested in a Canyon, I would definitely recommend finding someone who has one in the size you’re considering and check it out. Canyon does have a great return policy but, if you do get the wrong size, it’s a pain to box it back up.
Foot binding is coming back? Yikes!! Just use smaller shoes. Simple fix, right… Ouch! Trying not to feel FOMO for not experiencing the overlap issue. I must be riding it wrong? (When I stop, I usually unclip, making clipping in a comedic delight at times, but memories of the biker falling over stop anything more graceful
FWIW: The distance from the center of the BB to the front axle is called “front center”. This is sometimes found in bike geometry tables, maybe more common with mtbs. Of course given the typical geometry specs, it’s straightforward to calculate. Other things being equal, this will indicate which frames will have more or less toe overlap. Those other things include tire OD, crank length, Q factor, shoe size, cleat position…
I wouldn’t worry about it. I think all but my mountain bikes have pretty decent toe overlap, same for my wife, so is the nature of smaller bikes. It really bothered my wife, until she started racing cross and has learned how it does not really impact riding.
I don’t think I have ever had a road bike that DIDN’T have overlap. All of mine have overlap. Largest bike I have owned is a 54, so I’m guessing that’s why
I don’t think they had overlap issues but just weren’t able to show off without falling over. 
