My bikes have horrible toe overlap. I proactively unclip for very tight, slow turns and have otherwise learned to know where my feet are (not really any different than learning to avoid a pedal strike). You can also do shorter cranks. I’d do any or all of those things bofore choosing a bike that’s too big and creates other fit issues or has geometry that doesn’t suit the way I like my bikes to handle (twitchy!)
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Not that it would guide my buying decision but if you’re between two bikes and one will result in no overlap i’d let it be a deciding factor. My newer frame has it where my older did not and its scared the **** out of me on smaller hairpin turns or even rolling slow trying to navigate through an area with a lot of cars/planters/garbage cans/etc.
Learning to do those maneuvers with cranks at 6 and 12 vs 3 and 9 has been a bit of mental gymnastics.
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Maybe this is the real reason pros are switching to shorter cranks. 
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