The angle stuff is directionally informative like KOPS is. Get the fit so that you can stomp the pedal with full force and balanced musculature of the leg (quads, hams, glutes should all be working). Maybe try something like this, record yourself going hard for like a 2 min power best seated and see where your body naturally shifts on the bike to be able to produce that kind of sustained power. You might find that you slide way forward on the saddle (or maybe not) but you’re body will tell you where it wants to be to recruit it all in unison. Anyway, not saying you’d change the position to that spot exactly but you might be able to pick up on the direction you need to shift things.
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Ive currently got 2 varus wedges and some Sidas orthotics in my shoes, is it common to require more than 2 forefoot wedges?
It’s a depends sort of answer. Mainly on the fitters training and protocol for assessing foot correction and distinguishing between using in-the-shoe (ITS) heel or forefoot wedges and external cleat wedges. Steve Hogg’s blog might be useful to you.
Oh, I should add, I regularly see people with wedges set up incorrectly as Valgus when they need Varus as they’ve reversed them by mistake.
So I dropped the saddle 8mm. Initial ride didn’t feel like a huge difference but I could definitely feel the lower saddle height. And as I predicted, my knee angle increased to anywhere from 38 to 44 degrees, which is way higher than what I see recommended. Getting into the recommended 25-35 degrees, I would need to raise my saddle a fair bit. Which seems counterintuitive.
@CaptainThunderpants The number range you quote aligns with those typically found using a static measuring system. Dynamic measurements tend to be lower 38-42.
It’s only a number. What feels right i.e. easiest and smoothest is what’s best for you. The computers don’t allow for your history and flexibility.
Was that 8mm drop all in one go? 3mm max movement is what you should be changing as you begin to explore what too high and too low feel like. With practice, you’ll be able to establish your height by feel to within 1.5mm. Useful for when you have new pedals, shorts, shoes or replace cleats.
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This saddle is way to high!
Well that would have been nice to know. So my extension really wasn’t bad before. And yes, it was 8mm in one go. I 3D printed that tool you linked (awesome little gadget) and found that it was 8mm higher than my other road bike saddle height somehow. I do think it was a little low after the drop and I’m probably going to raise it slightly.
Thanks I will put it down some and see how it goes.
Edit: So turns out I also mis measured something… Saddle is now a good cm lower, and MyVelofit gives me a Knee angle of 38, lets see how that feels maybe I will drop it a few mm more.
I have a fit question for which I had difficulties to find an answer.
When I „go low“ (aero) on the bike my thighs (the quads) start to hit my lower abdomen. It‘s not painful but uncomfortable and restricts my ability to take deep breaths. Has anyone had similar experiences and what did you do about it?
I played around with pelvis rotation, the only position which reduces the hitting also arches the back, which is uncomfortable. I thought about playing around with saddle height to try to reduce the effect, haven‘t had the time yet.
Shorter crank length would help address this……will open your hip angle and let you rotate your hips.
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True, with the qualification that you ALSO raise the bars along with the taller saddle height that comes with the shorter cranks. This detail often gets overlooked, which leads to a “lower” front end relative to the taller saddle, which can negate the purpose of the shorter cranks in the first place.
As ever, one change on a bike nearly always affects another. So you need to work through ALL of the implications to hit the goals.
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Yup…I fired off a quick response and left out those key details.
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This sounds like a bigger change than I thought. I may wait for my next fitting session and will address this issue there (hello, cockpits that can‘t be raised further). 
Thanks for your answers.
Would you not lower the saddle to retain the same effective height, and then the bars can stay in same position?
If you swap to shorter cranks as suggested above (ex: 175mm to 170mm), this means the lowest point of the pedal at the bottom of the stroke is now 5mm CLOSER to the Bottom Bracket.
The pedal is effectively 5mm HIGHER than before, so you have to RAISE the saddle height in order to maintain the same leg extension at the bottom of the stroke. Raise the saddle the identical amount of the crank length change to keep leg extension identical.
If you don’t raise the saddle, you shorten the effective leg extension by that same crank length difference. That would not be ideal if the prior extension was correct.
Yeah, not much in fitting is “simple” and must be considered for all of the implications. Missing one may mean creating a new problem while attempting to solve the initial one.
With respect to your maxed cockpit, I’d have to see the current setup, but there are usually ways to get higher. Swapping to a less negative stem rise (or gasp… positive rise) will get bars up even if you are maxed out on steer tube length and spacers under the stem.
I would consider this broadly speaking right now, vs crank swap since a stem is MUCH cheaper than cranks. It may be that all you need is 5-10mm higher bars to get away from the tightness & contact you mentioned above.
I’m happy to try and offer more specific suggestions if you want. Just need more detail & pics of your current setup.
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That‘s very kind, thank you!
I meant one of these cockpits where the stem is integrated (noob purchase I know 
).
My fitting issue is nothing to worry about - I can sit in my normal position and it‘s no problem. I was just hoping to get more aero to have a better chance getting away from my friends. 
Ahhhh, lovely integrated cockpits… my favorite 
Those are fit killers and frustrating to deal with for the minimal adjustment they even offer.
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Aero cockpit but no aero position 
So Pro = No Go 
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