I just got a Canyon Lux with SRAM Level TLM brakes. The brakes work great except the lever throw is way too long — the lever is uncomfortably close to the bar for my big hands when the brakes are biting. I can’t see any way to adjust this and the manual just says to make sure the disc is centrally located in the calliper and that the pistons both move equally.
Am I missing something? I don’t really want to replace the brakes on an already expensive bike but squeezing so far is really compounding wrist ache.
My Guide RS have this take-up/free stroke adjust (I don’t know what it’s actually called) which yours lacks. You may be able to get the next level (no pun) levers with the adjustment and keep the lines and calipers etc as is. There is otherwise no way I know of to make this adjustment.
Worth keeping in mind that SRAM brakes generally offer more modulation than Shimano which also results in a longer lever pull to get the same amount of bite, so if you’re going to change brakes completely it may be worth your while to test ride a Shimano brake equipped bike to see what you prefer
I think you’ll be able to improve this with a lever bleed. This procedure is less common on SRAM than Shimano but it’s still doable: connect just the lever syringe with some dot fluid in it and work on removing air from the line with vacuum action. For the final step, after you’ve pumped the lever a number of times and made sure the lever reservoir is bubble free, you’ll do a final hard squeeze, then very slowly release the lever as you depress the upper syringe.
Might need a full bleed but if your brakes feel fine otherwise, not spongy, I think you could get away with just bleeding the levers.
It doesn’t have a free stroke adjustment, I think.
Maybe a thicker rotor? I’m not sure if that will help, at least until the pads wear down.
+1. Good suggestion.
Another thing to do is to close the caliper off, and fully bleed the lever vacuum push/pull after a number of lever presses.
Once I button up the lever, I push more fluid into the caliper, until the pistons come out a bit (if they haven’t already), then close off the edge port. There’s usually a bit of gap/play between the bleed block and the pistons, and I fill that up with more fluid.
Rattle those brake lines and re-bleed after letting the bike rest. You’re on your 2nd attempt so tilt bike bike left/right too so you can move any air in the caliper around. Use the proper bleed block.
The keys are to
bleed from the bottom
do both a push and a light vac to get all the bubbles out.
Don’t intro new bubbles, especially on the caliper side while you’re working.
put pressure on the caliper side syringe while you’re releasing the brake lever.
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