Rival AXS lever bites late - how to address?

I just installed a new brake line on as the previous one was too short after I installed a longer stem. Everything seemed to go well with the bleed process but the right / rear lever bites a bit close to the bar and later than the left / front lever does.

Any advice on how to address this?

It may be as simple as needing a touch more fluid. My rear AXS lever needed that. You could try that and/or a ghetto bleed as an easy first step.

This is a bleed issue.

  1. Overnight, put a rubberband around the lever to hold it closed.

That might do it, but if it doesn’t…
2) Rebleed. Take the time to get the air out of the fluid, bleed from the bottom up, move the fluid back and forth, etc.

Did you degas the fluid? One of the reasons I prefer shimano tbh, it’s a pain getting sram right

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One trick is to bleed as normal with the syringe from front to rear until the bubbles are gone. Then leave syringe on the caliper and close off the bleed port at the lever. Then apply pressure to the syringe at the rear caliper and hold it and close off the bleed port. This is putting the fluid in the system under more pressure.

This will give you a firm lever but the brake pads may drag against the rotor. If this happens then you can just crack the bleed port at the lever and let out a small bit of fluid and close off, Repeat until you can get the pads to stop dragging.

I did notice that I lost a few drops of fluid from the caliper end when I removed the syringe. I think I’d need someone’s help if I was to get the screw in before those drops hit the floor.

I thought I did a reasonably good job of bleeding. At very least I got it on my first try with the other lever. Yes, I did degas the fluid.

I have no idea what a ghetto bleed is.

I wonder if rebleeding after a ride would be helpful - if bouncing the bike around a bit would move bubbles to the respective ends.

Then leave syringe on the caliper and close off the bleed port at the lever. Then apply pressure to the syringe at the rear caliper and hold it and close off the bleed port.

It sounds like you’re describing a different brake / caliper system. There’s no ability to close off the bleed ports separate from installing the screw.

Yeah, that trick only works with calipers that have the SRAM bleeding edge port.

Another trick people use but I’ve never tried is to remove the wheel, and do one single pull of the lever all the way to the bars. This advances the pistons a small amount, making for an earlier bite point.

The “needs a bleed” response is technically the correct one, but it can be surprisingly difficult to get them bled perfectly.

You are right. I am describing the SRAM Level brakes. You can close off the bleed valve in the calipers with the bleed hose/syringe attached when using the SRAM bleed kit.

Looks like if you install the bleeding edge adapters in the caliper bleed ports then you can do what I described. With the bleeding edge adapters you do not remove them, you just barely crack open the bleeding edge adapters in the caliper then insert the syringe. Then the knob on the end of the syringe will allow you to close off the bleeding edge adapters in the calipers while applying pressure on the syringe.

The bleeding edge adapters replace the bleed screw. I guess the Level brakes come with them already installed.



That name (bleeding edge adapter) just refers to the syringe tool. You can’t add a bleeding edge port to a brake that doesn’t have one.

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I figured out my mistake - I hadn’t tightened down the connections between the hose and the lever and caliper. Getting a torque wrench on that is odd, I had trouble figuring out a way to do it effectively and ended up with ‘I think this is pretty good’.

Obviously after that - rebleed. I made sure to pressurize before removing the syringes and inserted the screw somewhat quickly. Seems spot on now, just need to go for a ride.

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Nice. It’s surprisingly tight! I always wondered what happens if you go too tight: would you totally crush the olive and cause a leak or prevent fluid flow? I ended up getting a 8mm crowfoot socket for my torque wrench, but now I know the feel and don’t usually use it.

That makes sense. I like the bleeding edge port.