I moved my SRAM AXS hoods a bit. How do I decrease the lever reach without changing braking power. There obviously is an adjustment screw but decreasing the reach greatly reduces braking power
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Is this the change you made:
If so, why do you think that reduces power?
Potentially related, but you may consider the Contact Point Adjustment covered in the manual:
yes , when I reduce the reach like that, my stopping power goes away
edit: the answer is hidden in the comments, even with an angry comment from me I had forgotten about
This has been a contradiction since SRAM first introduced levers with reach adjustment. It is true that the levers can be brought in toward the bar to shorten reach but also reduces lever travel thereby reducing braking power since lever travel multiplies braking force. Another problem with SRAM is the shift paddle shape and size. When the paddle gets close to the bar it can make contact further causing issues, especially if braking from the hoods since one’s fingers are likely in the way. This first became clear to me in cyclocross since cantilever brakes need more lever travel to work well. It can be terrifying when immediate braking is needed but little to none is available due to lever travel concerns. It seems that unless a bar shape was designed to work specifically with the levers this problem will not go away.
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Hi!
Did you ever figure this out?? I’m trying to shorten my lever reach but now my brakes don’t work at all.
Not really but there is another adjustment screw on some models on the top of the hoods. It should change the brake force iirc but be careful loosening too much, I remember I tried messing with it, the cap came out and I couldn’t get it back (had to go to the shop)
Would I be correct that you are referring to disc brake levers? If so then yes there is a brake adjustment atop the lever adjacent to the bleed port but it does not change lever position. If bleeding per factory procedure the screw is backed all the way out which gives the most pad actuation. Any adjustment of this screw will allow the lever to bottom out against the bars easier. To a degree some of this is supposed to be addressed by the newest version of Red.
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Have a similar issue at the moment. If it’s adjusted too close, the braking power is poor (as in I cannot lock out the breaks).
I rebled my breaks 4x because i thought I was doing it incorrectly before I realised it was the break point adjustment.
Luckily I have larger hands so it’s not too bad, but it’s a rather frustrating design. Right now its in the upper middle of the adjustment, and the braking is good. This is for Sram Apex 11.
1. Carefully pry the reach adjust cover from the front of the brake lever. Be careful to not damage the tether when removing the cover.
2. Reach Adjust: Use a 2.5 mm hex wrench to rotate the reach adjust counterclockwise to bring the lever closer to the bar, or clockwise to move the lever away from the bar.
The brake lever and shifter paddle adjust together.
3. Install the reach adjust cover into position.
NOTICE
Do not continue turning the reach adjuster when resistance is felt. The reach adjustment feature may be damaged if the adjuster is turned past the final position in either direction.
2.5 mm
Contact Point Adjustment
1. Pull the hood cover back from the front of the shift lever.
2. To adjust the amount of lever movement before the pads engage the rotor, use a 2.5 mm hex wrench to rotate the contact point adjuster clockwise to increase the lever throw, or counter-clockwise to decrease the lever throw.
There are 4 contact point positions, indicated by 3 clicks when turning the adjuster, with stops at the minimum and maximum lever throw positions.
Do not squeeze the lever while adjusting the contact point adjuster.
3. Pull the hood cover forward into position.
NOTICE
There are stops at the minimum and maximum lever throw positions. Do not continue turning the contact point adjuster when resistance is felt. The contact point adjustment feature may be damaged if the adjuster is turned past the final position in either direction.