I have just recently changed my road bike and my new bike has 165mm cranks fitted. Should I now change my mountain bike cranks (170mm) to the same length? My mountain bike has a power meter crank fitted, so I’m reluctant to change them as it would be expensive. Would the longer cranks on my mountain bike help with torque. I use my road bike to aid my fitness for mountain biking. Anyone in a similar situation?
When I went to a new gravel bike a few years ago I chose 165 but left the 170 (and even 175’s, gasp!) on the mountain bike as they were getting old. When I finally upgraded my full suspension I did go to 165 since the cranks that came with it were garbage. You will not miss the torque all that much and I am not sure I notice the overall difference all that much since the MTB position is much more dynamic with sitting/standing/climbing/descending, etc. I do love the increased ground clearance for less pedal strikes! I also have a light hard tail with 175’s and I will get hip pain at top of pedal stroke following epic rides on this bike. I am pretty sure it is from the cranks but not wanting to put more into this aging rig. If you are seeking to correct an issue on the mountain bike and going to shorter cranks would help that, then by all means hunt for some deals on power meter cranks but if you are just toying with the idea since the road bike has shorter cranks then I would wait until you have to upgrade or replace parts. Just my two cents, and I love shiny new things.
Thanks, that’s really helpful. Shiny new bikes are the best
I have 165mm on my road and gravel bikes. When I bought a used MTB, it came with 175mm. Going to 165mm was really expensive with only few options. I ended up getting a 170mm crank since 175mm. 170mm has worked well for me.
went to 165 on the gravel bike this year and have liked it. I’ve got crappy hip mobility, so it helps with keeping a good/fast position on the gravel bike. I’ve got 170’s on the MTB, hesitant to change due to cost (xxsl PM crankset) and I’m not sure I’d see the same advantage there anyway (hip angles not as big of a challenge in MTB position).
I am running 160mm cranks now on road, gravel, and mountain. I actually make a little more power with the shorter cranks, and my theory is that it has reduced dead spots or improved pedal stroke efficiency from altering the range of motion. Not to mention my lower back, hips, and knees feel better than ever.
Thanks for everyone’s feedback. I went out for my first ride on the road bike last Sunday and it did feel a bit different with the shorter cranks, but didn’t seem to have any impact on my my TR workout that I did no my MTB, on the Tuesday. I think I’ll see how it goes for now.
How tall are you? I wouldn’t jump to switch from 170 to 165 on a MTB – especially if you have a power meter on it. Depending on the type of riding you do on your MTB, slightly longer might not hurt at all.
You can always switch down the road if you notice any downsides.
I have 165mm cranks on my MTB, 172.5 on road/gravel and 175 on CX bike. They all work fine.
I have 165mm on the gravel bike and 170mm on the mtb (172.5mm on the trainer bike). Only reason I’m considering 165mm for the mtb is to not have to change crank length on the head unit when switching pedals. I don’t notice a difference otherwise. I used (and still do) 175mm cranks on the singlespeed mtb for years.
Somewhat off topic, but why can’t we have various bike profiles on garmin devices?
It seems like on the new garmin edge that’s been announced (1060?), bike profiles can be added. It would make my life much easier as I am constantly switching my Favero pedals around between gravel and mtb. Maybe there will be a software update for older models but not holding my breath.
why can’t we have various bike profiles
I think this is the direction we’ll see some go in the future.