I got my replacement washer and it’s the same height (14mm I believe) as the old one. For some reason during reinstall of my old one I had it messed up so when I would tension down the end cap it would bind the freehub. After replacement with this exact same too hat washer it feels better but I think it’s more to do with me installing it right this time. As for the power adapter issues I had the same problem and found that using the right angle power cord was far better. No issues since!
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Anyone else struggling with power readings in this cold snap?
Mine starts off reading over 10% below my P1 pedals, slowly catches up and finishes about 3-4% lower, which is spot on for drive loss.
Really annoying for dual recording in races!
Hey, I am having this issue with my H3. Did you ever find anything out about why this was happening?
Thanks
Why not dual record with the P1? I use my Assioma that way for my zwift+TR rides just pair to Zwift through ANT and TR through BT.
Those power fluctuations are normal, remember these trainers are using optical sensors to estimate power, not a real gauge like a power meter, so they are a bit of a crapshoot
Yeah the plug end that connects into the trainer just isn’t a really tight fit. Once plugged in, just make sure it has some slack so it isn’t being pulled at all. Hasn’t happened to me in a while now.
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Thank you so much. I’ll take a look at the plug and make sure it’s got some slack.
Appreciate it.
I think the loose fit is due to the trainer portion, not the wall plug. If I use the 90* elbow, the plug fit into the trainer is a bit loose, but the wall plug fits firmly into the receiving end of the 90* elbow. Not sure if this is intentional design in case the plug is knocked loose so it can fall out of the trainer easier or just crappy engineering
I just taped the elbow adapter in and plug in to that. Figure if I’m gonna wear out a plug I’d rather it be the disposable adapter piece rather than the hardware on the trainer
I haven’t touched or manipulated the plug into the trainer, only the big block into the wall plug. The trainer will stop picking up power, the green light on the wall plug is still on, but if I unplug and re-plug just that side, it fixes it and I have power again. If it was an issue with the other end, I would assume the problem wouldn’t be fixed with what I’m currently doing.
Thank you for the help
I need both sources to dual record.
If the discrepancy is above 5% you get a DQ in the A cat races.
So I chose to either go with the Saris as primary and P1 as secondary and hope it warms up in time for the critical moments, or go the other way around and try and explain why there is a discrepancy. It’s annoying because often in the warm down it’s about 2%! But can start as high as 15%!
It’s annoying as well that now the top races are specifying the trainer has to be the primary.
I mentioned above about my H3 losing electricity power even though the brick by the wall socket has its green light on. I keep the H3 in the garage which is unheated. Is it at all possible that the cold weather is having an effect on my turbo???
Have you tried what we said about the pins inside the turbo jack?
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I’ve tried what I could without opening the turbo itself. The store has now advised me to buy a replacement power adapter and theyll reimburse me. Let’s see. No word from saris yet… but at least a good response from the store (in London, UK)
Has the side in the machine come loose then?
Did you pry apart the pins (from the outside, no need to open the turbo)
Hi.
The receiving end of the power in the turbo has always seemed too big for the power adapter. I could only see one pin sticking out which I nudged a bit. The turbo lost power again on Monday night and then yesterday would not power up at all. However, the new adapter arrived today and although it is also not as ‘tight’ a fit into the turbo as I would expect, it is delivering power. The guy in the store said that the new transformer I bought is the one that is now shipped with newer H3s. This is the link to it, if anyone else is interested. Note that I won’t trust that its fixed until a few longer sessions of more than 1 hour.
:
If that ‘pin’ in your saris looks like 1 pin the 2 pins have been pushed together.
Look really closely and you will see it’s two pins, gently use a very small flat screwdriver to move them apart.
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One thing I haven’t seen discussed here:
Does anyone else have an issue where their Hammer (I’ve got an H2) feels like the trainer isn’t level. Obviously the little extensions on the end of the “legs” on the trainer are adjustable. But when they’re both screwed in evenly, both bikes I’ve used feel like they’re leaning off to the right. If I screw the right-hand extension out about an inch, it still feels like I’m leaning off to the right a bit.
It’s only when I screw the right-hand extension out significantly more than the left, and then put a 1/2 thick book under the right hand leg that the trainer feels “level”.
Is it just me, just this unit, or has anyone else encountered this?
I don’t have to put a book under mine but my drive side foot is extended further than the other. The bike sits more towards the drive side on the trainer, not in the middle
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Mine is relatively stable when out of the saddle, etc… but if I grab the bike and push to one side or the other, it’s noticeably more stable towards the non-drive side than the drive side. If I stick a paperback under the drive side it seems to find an equilibrium.
Funny, you mention a block of wood: when I’ve set up my 29er trail bike to ride it on the hammer, I had to stick a 2x4 under the legs to lift the rear up in relation to the front end, otherwise was like a climbing simulator (given the higher axle height on the MTB vs road bike).