Doesn’t sound like pulley slip to me.
Even if you use the same cassette, you van have problems.
What Chad said. You also appeared to start in the smallest cog out back which is noisier. If you want to check for belt slip throw it in the small ring, middle of cassette, and hammer the pedals as hard as you can. You’ll know if you hear it
Need to replace my chain for sure which I bought a new one. Will switch it and see. Thanks for the response and it does feel bomb proof.
Well rode my first ride on the H3 with the new chain. Very solid, great feel and no problems. I did power-match to my 4iii and calibrated the trainer after the 45 min ride. Will take the power from the trainer next session and run the 4iii on my 530 to see the differences.
Need to still make some adjustments to my barrel and probably a few other small tweaks to get everything in sync chain wise.
For me and my left leg strength, the differences seemed to be greater during the lower wattage intervals. The H3 reads way closer to my pedals than the L arm did, but you’re still probably better off using the 4iiii and PM so your numbers stay consistent inside and out. Consistency > Accuracy is the name of the game here, and while I think the H3 is more accurate compared to pedals than a left arm is, having the same relative numbers to compare from inside and out means more. If you are aiming to hold 300w for 10 minutes outside and train for it inside, using your PM even if the 300 is really only 290 or if its 310 at the trainer level, its still going to be the same outside, whereas if you use your trainer inside and then the 4iiii outside, that 300 you are used to doing may be lower or higher on the 4iiii and you don’t really know where you are relative to the indoor effort. Easier just to use one power source, IMO. I was not about the Powermatch life but the more I read about it and understand it, the more value it adds, and even though my H3 and my Pedals are literally within 2% of each other, its just easier mentally to have one source for everything.
The one time I got to run my pedals, trainer, and L arm together for a relatively mild hour workout the averages were: DC Rainmaker Analyzer
Pedals: 171.5
Trainer: 172.8
Stages L: 179.5
Another time I ran McAdie and did a similar experiment: DC Rainmaker Analyzer
Pedals: 212
Trainer: did not measure but if we go by the above it would have been 213
Stages L: 226
If you end up with similar numbers to mine, and train with the H3 inside (even though IMO its more accurate than a left only arm), your outside rides will show higher numbers at the same relative effort, and could scare you into dialing back when really you’re plenty capable of the effort you see.
Glad to hear that the chain got you mostly sorted out. The Saris trainers are a real gem and under appreciated IMHO.
I am waiting for the pulley issue to shake out, and may grab an H3 later this season.
@Cleanneon98 and @mcneese.chad. Thanks for the replies and I probably will just use the 4iii mostly so I don’t have to mess with calibrations. I did this with my kickr snap and worked out well.
Still need to adjust he chain fully and need to remind myself how to do it but from what I remember a little goes a long ways. Any good videos on that?
Thanks. I did buy the Zinn and the art of road bike maintenance and sometimes it is easier to watch a video.
So are people generally recommending calling Saris to fix this pulley issue or do the sandpaper thing?
It doesn’t seem to have much of an effect aside from maybe loosing a few whats on stomps/etc.
My trick.
A. If the shift came up short and didn’t go far enough, turn the barrel adjuster in the same direction that you turned, via the shift.
B. If the shift went too far and over-shifted, turn the barrel adjuster in the opposite direction that you turned, via the shift.
Hope that makes sense.
I never felt anything slip when I had my bad units, just made noise. Contact them and see what they say, but it’s easily fixable
I will try it for sure and thanks.
Anyone have a really good video on Di2 rear derailleur set up?
Di2 shifts so well it sometimes is hard to tell what impact the adjusts have when you go into the adjustment mode (by hold down the junction box button). I’d like to see a really good video that walks you through the whole process.
BTW, my H3 has arrived. I’m planning to try my thru-axle Emonda on it shortly. I also got some of the Kickr Snap thru-axles as I was concerned the stock Emonda thru-axle might not have enough clearance for the handle. I’ve test things out shortly. The long term plan is to put the H3 on on the MP1 platform once it finally ships.
I don’t have a video but AFAIK the limit screws are set up like mechanical, and for micro adjustment, hold down the button on Junction A until it lights up red for adjustment mode, then use the shifters to micro adjust the FD and RD using each respective shifter. I believe each click is .2mm
Got it all dialed in now and about ready to ride. Had to adjust the lower limit screw a half turn and all good now.
My accuracy test.
Powermeter: Power2max NG eco MTB (double)
Trainer: H3
Workout: Antelope (5x 10m Sweet spot).
Here is average power of every SS interval (10 minutes):
| Interval | Power2Max | H3 | W difference | % |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 269 | 251 | 18 | 6,7 |
| 2 | 276 | 260 | 16 | 5,8 |
| 3 | 284 | 269 | 15 | 5,3 |
| 4 | 284 | 269 | 15 | 5,3 |
| 5 | 275 | 264 | 11 | 4,0 |
As you can see, they are both way off. It’s getting better as the workout proceeds, could be because the trainer is warming up, I don’t know. Both claim the accuracy of 2% (if not better) so I am little disappointed. One of them is not correct.
PS: I have not included readings from rest periods, but the difference between the numbers on that power level (120W) is not that big (<4%) so you can’t even rely on same watt / % offset.
When did you calibrate the trainer, and with what app?
Ditto of the PM?
Without a 3rd device, I don’t think you can say both are off.
Clearly, the 2 devices show a different value. It’s possible one is reading low and the other high. Based on the apparent differences, one or both could be exceeding their stated tolerances, but I think it’s premature to make that claim, with only these devices in the mix.
And when you calibrated the trainer, was it properly warmed up? A totally cold calibration will really mess with the numbers. I only calibrate my trainer once every month at best (usually 2-3 months or if I move it around), but when I do I make sure its 10 minutes into an easy spin.
I did Antelope -4 this week and my Assioma DUO showed 213w, compared to 217w on the H3. I’ll post the breakdowns of the intervals a bit later, but overall that’s a 1.8% discrepancy. Realistically the H3 should read lower being further down the driveline, but that’s really splitting hairs. In my experience, the H2 and H3 have been very accurate.
My numbers from Eclipse I remember since it was just yesterday (3x20 SS):
Pedals / H3
271…274
271…276
273…278
That is exactly what I was wondering and wanting to verify