Well rode my first ride on the H3 with the new chain. Very solid, great feel and no problems. I did power-match to my 4iii and calibrated the trainer after the 45 min ride. Will take the power from the trainer next session and run the 4iii on my 530 to see the differences.
Need to still make some adjustments to my barrel and probably a few other small tweaks to get everything in sync chain wise.
For me and my left leg strength, the differences seemed to be greater during the lower wattage intervals. The H3 reads way closer to my pedals than the L arm did, but youâre still probably better off using the 4iiii and PM so your numbers stay consistent inside and out. Consistency > Accuracy is the name of the game here, and while I think the H3 is more accurate compared to pedals than a left arm is, having the same relative numbers to compare from inside and out means more. If you are aiming to hold 300w for 10 minutes outside and train for it inside, using your PM even if the 300 is really only 290 or if its 310 at the trainer level, its still going to be the same outside, whereas if you use your trainer inside and then the 4iiii outside, that 300 you are used to doing may be lower or higher on the 4iiii and you donât really know where you are relative to the indoor effort. Easier just to use one power source, IMO. I was not about the Powermatch life but the more I read about it and understand it, the more value it adds, and even though my H3 and my Pedals are literally within 2% of each other, its just easier mentally to have one source for everything.
The one time I got to run my pedals, trainer, and L arm together for a relatively mild hour workout the averages were: DC Rainmaker Analyzer
Pedals: 171.5
Trainer: 172.8
Stages L: 179.5
Another time I ran McAdie and did a similar experiment: DC Rainmaker Analyzer
Pedals: 212
Trainer: did not measure but if we go by the above it would have been 213
Stages L: 226
If you end up with similar numbers to mine, and train with the H3 inside (even though IMO its more accurate than a left only arm), your outside rides will show higher numbers at the same relative effort, and could scare you into dialing back when really youâre plenty capable of the effort you see.
@Cleanneon98 and @mcneese.chad. Thanks for the replies and I probably will just use the 4iii mostly so I donât have to mess with calibrations. I did this with my kickr snap and worked out well.
Still need to adjust he chain fully and need to remind myself how to do it but from what I remember a little goes a long ways. Any good videos on that?
So are people generally recommending calling Saris to fix this pulley issue or do the sandpaper thing?
It doesnât seem to have much of an effect aside from maybe loosing a few whats on stomps/etc.
Anyone have a really good video on Di2 rear derailleur set up?
Di2 shifts so well it sometimes is hard to tell what impact the adjusts have when you go into the adjustment mode (by hold down the junction box button). Iâd like to see a really good video that walks you through the whole process.
BTW, my H3 has arrived. Iâm planning to try my thru-axle Emonda on it shortly. I also got some of the Kickr Snap thru-axles as I was concerned the stock Emonda thru-axle might not have enough clearance for the handle. Iâve test things out shortly. The long term plan is to put the H3 on on the MP1 platform once it finally ships.
I donât have a video but AFAIK the limit screws are set up like mechanical, and for micro adjustment, hold down the button on Junction A until it lights up red for adjustment mode, then use the shifters to micro adjust the FD and RD using each respective shifter. I believe each click is .2mm
Here is average power of every SS interval (10 minutes):
Interval
Power2Max
H3
W difference
%
1
269
251
18
6,7
2
276
260
16
5,8
3
284
269
15
5,3
4
284
269
15
5,3
5
275
264
11
4,0
As you can see, they are both way off. Itâs getting better as the workout proceeds, could be because the trainer is warming up, I donât know. Both claim the accuracy of 2% (if not better) so I am little disappointed. One of them is not correct.
PS: I have not included readings from rest periods, but the difference between the numbers on that power level (120W) is not that big (<4%) so you canât even rely on same watt / % offset.
When did you calibrate the trainer, and with what app?
Ditto of the PM?
Without a 3rd device, I donât think you can say both are off.
Clearly, the 2 devices show a different value. Itâs possible one is reading low and the other high. Based on the apparent differences, one or both could be exceeding their stated tolerances, but I think itâs premature to make that claim, with only these devices in the mix.
And when you calibrated the trainer, was it properly warmed up? A totally cold calibration will really mess with the numbers. I only calibrate my trainer once every month at best (usually 2-3 months or if I move it around), but when I do I make sure its 10 minutes into an easy spin.
I did Antelope -4 this week and my Assioma DUO showed 213w, compared to 217w on the H3. Iâll post the breakdowns of the intervals a bit later, but overall thatâs a 1.8% discrepancy. Realistically the H3 should read lower being further down the driveline, but thatâs really splitting hairs. In my experience, the H2 and H3 have been very accurate.
My numbers from Eclipse I remember since it was just yesterday (3x20 SS):
Pedals / H3
271âŚ274
271âŚ276
273âŚ278
Without a 3rd device, I donât think you can say both are off.
I wanted to say they were both way off of each other. Excuse my english. Ofcourse both the power sources could be wrong. I need to get 3rd powermeter to get better understanding of whatâs going on.
And when you calibrated the trainer, was it properly warmed up?
What do you mean by âproperly warmed upâ? The manual does not give any info on when to calibrate. And what difference would it make anyway? If the trainer should be warmed up for calibration, then it seems to report accurate readings only when warmed up. None of my training sessions start on warmed up trainer, does that mean the readings will be always off for the first portion of workout? Not good.
Back to your question - I did calibrate the trainer at the end of previous 1h30m workout. I used Rouvy iOS app to do that (did the same with Saris app before but did not see any difference in power readings). I did calibrate the P2M also, it almost always gives the same offset and so did this time.
You need to warm up the trainer for the calibration to be accurate. If you did not warm it up, that alone could explain the differences you see, I saw similar results once when I did not warm mine pre-calibration. And no, it will not just give you accurate numbers when its warm, but warming up the mechanism inside of the trainer is important to getting the correct spindown and making sure the trainer is accurate at all times. If you donât believe me, look at my data examples for proof. Doing calibration after a one and a half hour ride will also surely yield some strange results.
In general, all trainers (wheel-on and wheel-off, and from all trainer makers) recommend doing the calibration after 5-15 minutes of use.
That is unfortunate and typical of modern lack of documentation from all trainer makers. This type of info is usually only found online in the support center for the trainer.
It can make a notable difference, well enough to lead to correct or incorrect readings within the tolerance range of the trainer.
The core issue is that the electronic and mechanical equipment involved in the power calculations behave differently when âcoldâ vs âhotâ at the proper temps associated with normal use. They all change a bit and can affect the reported power data.
Yes, that may mean you got incorrect data.
Again, typical of most trainers. It is a product of the methods in use that are actually calculated power via the resistance unit vs a âreal power meterâ in the form of a strain gauge design (that is used in a dedicated power meter like the pedals, crank arms, crank spindles and such).