Hadn’t had to patch a mtb tyre, but put a Stan’s dart into a road tyre and saw how long it lasted - at least a few months, but then I took the tyre off anyway. However, I’d usually patch a tyre from the inside once it needed a plug (and take plug out). With the plug in there, I think you’d have a high risk of puncturing a tube, if you needed to put one in. Once patched, the tyre should be good to go tubeless again.
If the hole in the tyre is big, I’d probably just be too nervous and change it anyway. Some people even sew big holes together, but I’d rather not risk it.
Tyre inserts - think most more serious riders use them. The more rocks, and the rougher the riding, the more likely. Though inserts won’t save you from sidewall rips and thorns, so it might be worth thinking about the type of punctures you had.
Gold. Thank you! Appreciate your responses here and on other threads recently.
Any different patches for tubeless tires than for road tubes? I’ve used these Park Tool patches with success on road tube and slashed road tires. Does same/similar work for MTB tubeless assuming they cover the hole size?
Can’t help with that, sorry. I’ve only used tube patches too. My main issue was that the vulcanizing solution doesn’t work that well inside the tyre, so the patch needs to sit overnight to stay stuck. But after that it was usually ok.
Stop using XC race tires for non XC. It’s not the bike it’s your tire choice. They are not intended or designed for your purpose, so of course you’re running into issues. May also be your line choices. XC tires are built for speed and not mashing through rough terrain. I almost never get a flat/puncture and once a year would be a lot. That being said the Midwest is more roots than rocks. Look into trail/all mountain tires with thicker casing. I take my XC bike to CO and UT and swap out tires to Maxixis Minions and/or Assegai type tires.
They hold until they don’t. I’ve had plugs hold all season and others have a slow leak on and off. I wouldn’t rely on a plugged tire for a big event or backcountry adventure, but everyday riding is ok. Probably just depends on the type of puncture and where on the tire it’s located.
I haven’t, but if it looks like it would be an issue then do so.
Depends on your terrain, but they are certainly more common. Tire Inserts won’t necessarily eliminate punctures. If you think about it, how could it? Inserts allow lower PSI and protect the rims, but a puncture is a puncture and an insert can’t protect against that. Maybe against pinch flats if that’s a common problem for you. Something to think about it that the inserts are a pain in the ass to remove then carry if you have to put in a tube. Then you have to pack out the insert because you can’t put in a tube with the insert. Ideally with an insert you would plug the hole, re-inflate the tire and all would be well, unless the inflation doesn’t hold.
Back to tubeless. Maybe you can replug or do a better job at home than you did trail side, so probably best to remove the tire and give it some attention. Again, it may or may not hold and I wouldn’t rely on a plugged fixed tire for any big event or backcountry adventure, but fine for every day riding.
Lastly, look into Stans Race Sealant, it has bigger particles for bigger problems.
I am in the Midwest and don’t get many tire gashes, so take what I say in that context.
For a makeshift patch, I carry some US dollar bills, which are more textile than paper, so it’s really durable. It’s big enough that if it can’t plug the hole, you’re tire is done anyways. As a bonus it can also be used as money if the need arises. Gorilla tape can also do double duty and has the advantage of having adhesive. But with sealant, I feel like the dollar would work fine.
Purpose made patches are probably better, but the ones I have seen are relatively small. I do carry one only because I have it and it’s so small and light there’s no reason not to.
I also question why you are getting tares so often. Could be tire choice, pressure or line choice. People with tire inserts sometimes run a lot lower tire pressure, but that depends on the type of insert, terrain, etc. Some people run almost the same pressure and just use them for damping and rim protection
For training and trail riding (eg not racing) I go with more tire than is needed. I’d rather lose a few seconds going uphill to have the extra flat nd sidewall protection and extra grip of a meatier tire. If I were racing, I would definitely spend time practicing on my race set up though.
Inserts - I’ve not gone to them yet but am not a crazy downhill bomber and am fairly light running fairly beefy tires (DHF/Aggressor on a Mojo3). Buddies with more skills and speed are all running inserts and DD casing. I probably will too at some point.
Flat repair. Dynaplug on the trail. At home, take the tire off, wash with soapy water then clean the surface with brake cleaner, and glue a proper tire patch on the inside. Not the little bike patches, but patches meant for radial tires (motorcycle). I keep a can of vulcanizing fluid (available at NAPA or similar) and use patches like the ones shown below (search: amazon radial tire patches). A bag of 50 patches is $10 and the glue is similar cost.
If you are sidewall pinching a lot it is probably not abrasive but snake biting on the rim as others have said. Need to hit stuff less hard, maybe use more air pressure. A heavier tire with better sidewall protection will help some, but even with big tires the rider needs to clear obstacles.
Its a blast to smash stuff on these F/S bikes but still need care in line choice and try to avoid the big hits to tires and rims.
Also noted… and this is news to me! Last time I rode MTB was 15yrs ago and I slapped whatever cool looking tire the shop had on my hard tail (I was 18). Never flatted. Made the mistake of thinking all MTB tires were meant for bashing!
What is DD casing? Is it common for a model of tire to be made with multiple casing options? Or does different casing change the name usually??
Yes. 94kg and ride with 8 out of 10 adrenaline and 5 out of 10 skill. I think you are right.
Are we talking about 10W nominal rolling resistance losses going to something like Aggesai or Minion or more like 30-40W? Yes, I understand there are dozens of factors at play. Just exploring what to expect.
This is new to me. I think I just enjoy smashing too much. Sounds like it might be time for a way beefier tire and a smidge higher PSI, even if it compromises rolling resistance and traction.
Epic fun. Pure joy.
PS. got those radial patches and will employ soon! Thank you @DarthShivious
DD is Maxxis’ “double down” casing. It’s the second strongest casing they offer and is pointed at enduro riders and trail riders for whom the lighter EXO and EXO+ casings aren’t enough. The heaviest is the “downhill” casing. Below DD is EXO+, then EXO.
Here is a decent article with the different Maxxis acronyms and rubber defined:
Many manufacturers will reuse a good tread pattern and alter the rubber compound(s) for grip and the casing to provide different levels flat resistance (and side wall support + burp resistance). More grip and more protection often is slower. The myriad of choices and the cost of tires is the reason there are so many “what tire and tire pairing??” threads on internet forums.
Maxxis is not the only or best company. They have just done a good job with different tires and with marketing. Each company has their own systems and acronyms so it is work to keep up.
You are a big dude so it is likely worth the trade off of a few watts for protection and to not deal with a many (or any) flats.
On a mountain bike, you should be less worried about rolling resistance and more worried about technical skills. Skills give you free speed, more safety, and more fun. Chances are you’re throwing away lots of hard earned momentum.
Joy of Bike on YouTube is a great resource for skills videos.
Ran similar to their table today (I did 24/30psi F/R). No flats, hooray! When I’ve inched down to 26-27psi in the rear it felt amazing, until I flatted or burped, almost every other ride.
I weigh 94kg, but because of lack of skill, aggressiveness, and weight room strength from past training history (bobsledder, think powerful gorilla-sprinter), the poor bike and tires probably experience more like 110-120kg worth of rider. I’ll probably stick with 30+ in the rear until I develop a bit more finesse or get something with DD or DH casing.
Is it safe to assume that adding/removing rear shock tokens affects ramp rate similarly qualitatively to the token additions/removal in the fork?
Is it harder to do because it requires taking the shock off??
Finally…
Is my understanding below correct, generally for my two scenarios?
Me: 220 pound rider+gear, bashes rocks on XC bike, generally rides like a cocky 18-year-old.
More tokens, slightly softer sag, open compression, fast-ish rebound = good small bump sensitivity, but less likely to bottom out if I rip a descent and then hit a big compression unexpectedly because I’m riding like an idiot?
My wife: 145-pound rider+gear, no bashing, rides gently, fear is an issue on gnarly stuff:
Remove tokens if she’s never anywhere near maxing out and already running pretty soft sag (25-30%) with open compression?
Then tap on the end of the quicklink and it will come undone. I’ve used this several times on both mine and others’ bikes.
Anchovies/tyre plugs - I just leave them in-situ, they wear down quite quickly so don’t catch. I cover those I put in with flexible superglue. The plug usually lasts the lifetime of the tyre.
