Can you pull off the hub endcap with pliers? Then your tool would fit. Some end caps have a flange that means they’re held in place by the lock ring, but I can’t tell if that’s the case here.
It looks like it to me. I can see teeth marks in both those pics.
The Shimano rotors I’ve bought all came with lock rings like those on your bikes. I had to purchase a different lockring for the front wheel to accommodate the larger axle.
See below.
Both taken from the MTB Direct website. My favourite online supplier in Aus by far.
I have a pair of their nips that have made in W. Germany stamped on them. As long as they haven’t sold out the brand they should be commercial grade and outlast you. 
A very handy tool to own. Part of ever plumber’s tool kit.
I think they just used a thin walled cassette lock ring tool. The splines in the center-lock lock rings are the same as those on cassette tools. Some older design cassette tools have a thick wall because they just had to clear a small diameter axle. Since newer bikes have thicker axles, newer design tools have a thin wall that can fit between the axle and ring. The wheel builders likely used that.
Here’s my cassette lock ring tool. See how thin the wall is between the splines? That’s what you want.
I think you’re right.
Agreed.
I purchased this lockring tool from Park Tool and currently await it’s arrival. Do you happen to know what lockring tool you’ve got specifically? Do you think the park tool one will be thin-walled enough?
I don’t remember where I got mine, but visually that Park one looks correct. Plus Park updates their tools quickly to address any issues. This need for the thin walls is more than 5 years now. It will be fine.
Turns out this one has a flange. Wouldn’t have had a clue what you were talking about until I popped off the non-rotor side endcap to inspect it. Yep! Flange prevents further pulling on rotor side.
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I am not familiar with the Scott Spark tire clearance specs but something to check out before you throw a much larger tire on there. Frame clearance in the rear triangle is likely your limiting factor more than clearance at the fork.
Good point. You need enough clearance around the tire on the sides and top. Conservatively that means 6mm clearance to avoid the tire rubbing if the rim gets out of true (non-straight), clear mud and avoid a sudden lock due to small rocks jamming it up. A muddy, rubbing tire can easily eat through carbon or aluminum.
Generally forks have more clearance than frames. Your manual (or a decent bike review) should list max tire sizes. Unfortunately there’s still some difference in labeled vs actual size due to many factors. And new tires grow a bit as they stretch. So dry mount the tire, confirm clearance is good, then add sealant and check again the next day or two that clearance is still good.
That’s interesting that yours fits. What brand hubs are they?
I’m running DTSwiss 240s hubs on my carbon hoops and there’s no way that tool would fit. (I had to check to make sure I wasn’t going mad).
The DT 240s (on my bike) have approximately 0.4mm clearance with the standard Shimano lock ring.
@Dr_Alex_Harrison
See attached pics.
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That’s interesting. It does look too small of a gap. How did you get the lock ring on in that first picture? If you used pliers, you did an admiral job not damaging it.
My picture is from a set of Easton wheels. No problems with my DT 350s or Fulcrums either.
Clearly your second pic is a different design that uses the BB tool and would avoid any clearance issue.
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Gotta love the wonderful world of bicycle standards!
I notice that my road bike has a different type of lock ring that has a female thread. 
That first pic was simply hand tightened so I could check the gap with a feeler gauge. I’d end up marring the metal any other way.
And then I find this.
Fulcrum should’ve called it the FFS axle system. That’s exactly what I said to myself when I looked up my road bike standard.
I got bored waiting for the rt900’s to come back in stock and ended up running a spare set of xtr rotors on the road bike. Works a treat and looks good.
Got it.
Seems worthwhile. I’ve ordered two.
Yep. 19.9mm. My calipers don’t do any higher precision than that 
Yeah, looks like 2.4 is fine in rear, per Google. I’d bet 2.5 is fine in front fork. I think 2.6 will be fine in front, if it holds true to size as well as the Ikon 2.35 does, which by my calipers is 2.36.
This is a great point. Will consider cautiously when flirting with 2.6 use.
Great idea. Will do.
The reason I suggested the multigrips above is that they have long handles for better leverage and allow you to apply plenty of clamping force safely.
Vice grips are great, but the short handle means your hands are close to the meat slicer which is not so great. I’d happily use a pair myself, although nobody wants hands that look like mine.
I only mention this because those stainless/aluminium sandwich style rotors have crazy sharp edges. It might be worth wearing gloves to avoid losing a knuckle if one were to slip.
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Too true!
Amongst my collection is a 98cc chainsaw that runs Diamond encrusted blades and cuts 400mm deep into solid rock/reinforced concrete. No joke.
Not much good for working on bikes though. 
This is why I could never live in a motor home.
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This thread has been great at convincing me I need more tools. googles 12" vice grips
Will do.
It’s a very big motorhome and I prioritize shrewdly. As far as I can tell… an infinite number of tools and bikes will fit. It may just mean that I sleep outside.
I have downsized my entire wardrobe to 5 small fabric totes and one 20" hanger bar. Including all cycling apparel. My wardrobe consists of socks, underwear, one pair of running shorts, one jeans, one jammers (swim) and lots of cycling apparel.
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Discovered that the lockring was barely more than hand tight. haha Was able to use my very cheap adjustable pliers and had it moving accidentally before I’d even fully gotten a grip on clamping them down.
Definitely installing the Shimano non-cassette rotor lockring ring asap.
Thanks @Rosscopeco & @iamholland
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Finally watched this vid. Thank you!
I put the word “chamfer” on my list of things to look up yesterday. Finally had the time. Saw “chamferless” also mentioned by someone here. Found it:
Does the chamfer of a socket refer to the slight angled bit at the intake lip of the socket?
If so, then chamferless means no angled bit, and it’s a 90 degree angle from face of socket edge to the inner wall of the socket… yes?
If so, then presumably there is a very low-profile hex nut I’ll be needing to wrench on, on the fork somewhere, right? (I’m not seeing it on the external of my fork.) Where on the fork is it? Under these??
Second… why aren’t all sockets manufactured chamferless?? Seems like it would be an easier manufacturing process. Also seems like it would increase contact surface area whenever the user is wrenching on it. Maybe the chamfer (if I’m understanding what it even is) is just there for ease of inserting whatever you’re wrenching on, into the socket??
Starting to think I should have taken one of my 3 degrees in mechanical engineering so I wouldn’t be so abysmal here. No better time to learn than now.
SWEET course. Stoke is high now for sure.
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Just caught this link. Gold. Thank you. Links in his description super useful. Thanks again.
Did that a moment before sending and saw the splines and thought hmmm… not gonna mess with that but the hex nut must be under there! haha
Thanks for the clarification!
The same reason the nuts have chamfers. If you have space you design things to work easily in real world applications. If you don’t have the space you design things to tight tolerances.
Forks are quite compact and they try to shave weight wherever possible.
Your pic looks like there is no hex nut on top of the air chamber. All of my forks have a very thin hex nut. Hence the chamferless socket.
I’ve read that some use a different tool. Check the fork manufacturers instructions for your model.
While you’re there you can see if your forks allow you to play around with “tokens”. There a small bit of plastic that reduces the air volume in the chamber.
Edit: looks like you got that lot figured out already.