hard to say… most of mine seal up tight and maybe drop from 75psi to 50psi in a week. But some don’t seal as tight.
When installing or reinstalling, I put 40ml of sealant in. My Orange Seal came with a handy dip stick, and during the summer I usually check sealant level once a month. And every 3-6 months I’ll take off the tire and clean out any buildup.
Same here! First one I posted on a few days ago - super easy… second one, I broke two of the wide park tool levers, got some even beefier pedro’s levers, still no go. So either rim or these tires are wildly inconsistent.
Final solution included - new Giant rim tape on Reynolds Assault wheel (since the easy wheel had this already), tire next to wood stove all day to warm up, pedro’s levers to get as close as I could, a little soapy water, and finally - the kool stop tire bead jack (I think I read about it on here) and maybe the 30th try with that pulled it over the top. It had a long way to go - I couldn’t even get the final chord of the bead much past the inner side of the 41mm deep rim when the levers hit their limit - really didn’t think it would work, but I had already ordered it and figured why not.
HIGHLY recommend the kool stop bead jack for $13 - any prior tubeless tire that gave me a hard time would have been near-effortless with this tool. The Reynolds assaults also took an pretty scary load from this tool to get the tire on - this one Conti GP5000 TL was a whole new level of hell.
Good news is it inflated first try no problem - not too surprising given the insanely tight fit; held pressure fine overnight with orange seal. Can’t wait to ride them!
I’ve just converted 2 sets of wheels to tubeless for the first time.
First was on my gravel bike fitting Michelin Power Gravel TLR
The supplied rims were tubeless compatible which meant I had to tape and install valves, easy enough as I did that from new. Fitting was okay, a bit of soapy water and levers and they popped on, managed to inflate and seat them with a track pump, they slowly deflated over night.
Added sealant and they still deflate a bit slowly but only ridden them a few times.
The next set was GP 5000 TL to a set of new road wheels that came pre-taped.
Holy 
!!!
They were a battle.
Eventually using pure dish washing liquid and a thin, broad lever I managed to fit them.
Again inflated and seated with a track pump. Can’t comment on deflating as I added sealant straight away and have only ridden them once.
The one thing that keeps catching me out is riding at lower pressures, I look down and think I have a flat plus they sound different to tubes.
Conti gp5000TL on campy wto wheels - absolute knightmare to fit - had to resort to warming up the tyres.
Inflated with track pump though 
I was definitely spoilt with the mavic UST setup on my kysrium elites - they are as easy a tyre change as I could imagine. If I see my rear tyre is getting warn I will just swap front to back on a wim.
… also be careful how you pump your tires. Sometimes the valve gets pushed in every time you pump it up, which may cause the valve to move just a little bit and give room for the sealant. so it’s even worth checking that section once on a while and making sure it’s all in proper position and clean.
I run the same setup with the WTO (60) and the GP5000TL at the moment and even thought the tires had a rather snug fit I was able to put them on pretty easy. Did you use the Campagnolo tire levers that came with the WTOs? I think they helped heaps to put the tires on.
To be honest the tyres were freezing when i tried to fit them -they had just been delivered! So by warming them up I actually mean getting them to room temp.
The supplied levers are good I agree.
Great wheels and tyre combo though - i love them! What size contis have you fitted? I’ve gone for the 25s but might go 23 next time as they do come up slightly large.
I am running the 25s at the moment, but might try the 28s at some point. Campagnolo recommends 25 or 28 with the internal width the 60 WTO wheels have. Never measured the actual width when mounted though
First ride yesterday on the new GP5000TL. WOW.
Install was a pain, but that tire wrench certainly made it easier than just using levers. Not only is the traction top notch, but they FEEL amazing on the road, especially on crap pavement. They’ve made some of the ‘pave’ i ride a lot less harsh for sure. Sealed up fine with Stan’s and have not lost any pressure in 5 days now.
School is still in for me. I have two things. The front wheel done with Gorilla tape was completely flat so I went to try again which leads to the first thing. I need to get on of those tire lever thingys
How the f*ck do you get the tire off the bead? There was no way that this was going to happen, certainly not with tools out on the road. Ultimately I had to use channel lock pliers wrapped in tape to break the bead.
Next Gorilla didn’t work and tape leaves a lot of adhesive. Good thing the Masters was on early because I spent a bunch of time Sunday morning picking bits of adhesive and cleaning sealant. Fortunately at the end of it all the Orange Seal tape that wouldn’t stick before now miraculously stuck. I am going to let the tire completely dry out before reinstalling as I have Finish Line sealant which has mixed reviews, but generally seems to work on less “porous” tires and those that have been used previously with other sealant.
Good thing my new bike that these wheels are going on isn’t in yet or I would have given up by now.
Using tubeless at P-R is a silly choice. For the most part using tubeless in a pro race is silly. Using 25c tubeless tires in P-R is even sillier. That’s the one race that will see tubulars for a long time yet.
If the tires are Schwalbe Pro Ones, I’d be starting to suspect the Prime wheels being out of spec and slightly too large.
Posted this on another thread:
https://www.trainerroad.com/forumuploads/short-url/g768qryHdlM0YBNR7svzHDwhqaG.jpeg
if the diameter of the rim bead is greater than 622.45mm, then your rim is out of spec and installing/removing tires is going to be difficult. If your rim is slightly too large, and tire is slightly too small, then you have a super difficult situation.
The rim bead diameter for the rim should be 621.95 plus or minus 0.5mm, which I’ll claim is a pretty tight tolerance (+/- 0.08%).
More info here: Tight Fitting Tire Application Technique (No Tire Iron) - #6 by bbarrera
All I know is that there was no way that could ever be a roadside tube install. I hope that sealant will work and learn to use plugs. Once the Pro One are hooked in, they are in solid. Maybe someday wheel and tire manufacturers will agree to one standard and stick to it.
There is a standard ETRTO sets the diameter of the bead seat for a rim at:
And the pic above shows Competitor D and Competitor ST have rims that are too large and out of spec.
I’ve done a roadside tube install after a sidewall tear on Pro Ones and ENVE 5.6 Disc tubeless optimized wheels. Removing the tire is usually easier with a tire lever from my seat bag, but not always required.
Really sounds like your wheels are too large, or the tires are too large.
CRC/Prime doesn’t state if they are ETRTO compliant or not and given how hard they are to just get on the rim, let alone seating them, I will agree that the rims are probably on the large side. The bright side is that if they do go flat, they will be like tubs and not come off the rim
To be fair I basically had the same problem with my Vittoria Corsa’s a few weeks ago. Despite not being tubeless tires they were next to impossible to change a flat tube on. Sat on the side of the road for almost 45minutes busting my thumbs trying to get that sorted. For that hassle I might as well go tubeless.
why do you think it is silly? (serious question here 
)
the way I see it, also from the cycling news link, this was bad luck and could have happenend with regular tires or tubs as well. Going with the 25s makes me raise some questions, but who knows the teams reason. In my opinion he should have opted for a wider (say +30) tyre here and make use of the advantages the tubeless system offers.
Being a tubeless user on a mtb in the alps in really rough terrain and hammering into rocks and sharp edges on a regular base I don’t see a single reason for not using the tubeless system over anything else when racing P-R…
This will puncture your rim tape if you are not careful.
I’ll likely buy a ksyrium elite wheelset later this summer. What tires are best compatible with Mavic UST wheels (other than Mavic themselves)? These will be training wheels, so I’m okay with slight tradeoffs in speed for durability. Prefer 28mm.
