… also be careful how you pump your tires. Sometimes the valve gets pushed in every time you pump it up, which may cause the valve to move just a little bit and give room for the sealant. so it’s even worth checking that section once on a while and making sure it’s all in proper position and clean.
I run the same setup with the WTO (60) and the GP5000TL at the moment and even thought the tires had a rather snug fit I was able to put them on pretty easy. Did you use the Campagnolo tire levers that came with the WTOs? I think they helped heaps to put the tires on.
To be honest the tyres were freezing when i tried to fit them -they had just been delivered! So by warming them up I actually mean getting them to room temp.
The supplied levers are good I agree.
Great wheels and tyre combo though - i love them! What size contis have you fitted? I’ve gone for the 25s but might go 23 next time as they do come up slightly large.
I am running the 25s at the moment, but might try the 28s at some point. Campagnolo recommends 25 or 28 with the internal width the 60 WTO wheels have. Never measured the actual width when mounted though
First ride yesterday on the new GP5000TL. WOW.
Install was a pain, but that tire wrench certainly made it easier than just using levers. Not only is the traction top notch, but they FEEL amazing on the road, especially on crap pavement. They’ve made some of the ‘pave’ i ride a lot less harsh for sure. Sealed up fine with Stan’s and have not lost any pressure in 5 days now.
School is still in for me. I have two things. The front wheel done with Gorilla tape was completely flat so I went to try again which leads to the first thing. I need to get on of those tire lever thingys
How the f*ck do you get the tire off the bead? There was no way that this was going to happen, certainly not with tools out on the road. Ultimately I had to use channel lock pliers wrapped in tape to break the bead.
Next Gorilla didn’t work and tape leaves a lot of adhesive. Good thing the Masters was on early because I spent a bunch of time Sunday morning picking bits of adhesive and cleaning sealant. Fortunately at the end of it all the Orange Seal tape that wouldn’t stick before now miraculously stuck. I am going to let the tire completely dry out before reinstalling as I have Finish Line sealant which has mixed reviews, but generally seems to work on less “porous” tires and those that have been used previously with other sealant.
Good thing my new bike that these wheels are going on isn’t in yet or I would have given up by now.
Using tubeless at P-R is a silly choice. For the most part using tubeless in a pro race is silly. Using 25c tubeless tires in P-R is even sillier. That’s the one race that will see tubulars for a long time yet.
If the tires are Schwalbe Pro Ones, I’d be starting to suspect the Prime wheels being out of spec and slightly too large.
Posted this on another thread:
https://www.trainerroad.com/forumuploads/short-url/g768qryHdlM0YBNR7svzHDwhqaG.jpeg
if the diameter of the rim bead is greater than 622.45mm, then your rim is out of spec and installing/removing tires is going to be difficult. If your rim is slightly too large, and tire is slightly too small, then you have a super difficult situation.
The rim bead diameter for the rim should be 621.95 plus or minus 0.5mm, which I’ll claim is a pretty tight tolerance (+/- 0.08%).
More info here: Tight Fitting Tire Application Technique (No Tire Iron) - #6 by bbarrera
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All I know is that there was no way that could ever be a roadside tube install. I hope that sealant will work and learn to use plugs. Once the Pro One are hooked in, they are in solid. Maybe someday wheel and tire manufacturers will agree to one standard and stick to it.
There is a standard ETRTO sets the diameter of the bead seat for a rim at:
- minimum diameter of 621.45mm
- maximum diameter of 622.45mm
And the pic above shows Competitor D and Competitor ST have rims that are too large and out of spec.
I’ve done a roadside tube install after a sidewall tear on Pro Ones and ENVE 5.6 Disc tubeless optimized wheels. Removing the tire is usually easier with a tire lever from my seat bag, but not always required.
Really sounds like your wheels are too large, or the tires are too large.
CRC/Prime doesn’t state if they are ETRTO compliant or not and given how hard they are to just get on the rim, let alone seating them, I will agree that the rims are probably on the large side. The bright side is that if they do go flat, they will be like tubs and not come off the rim
To be fair I basically had the same problem with my Vittoria Corsa’s a few weeks ago. Despite not being tubeless tires they were next to impossible to change a flat tube on. Sat on the side of the road for almost 45minutes busting my thumbs trying to get that sorted. For that hassle I might as well go tubeless.
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why do you think it is silly? (serious question here 
)
the way I see it, also from the cycling news link, this was bad luck and could have happenend with regular tires or tubs as well. Going with the 25s makes me raise some questions, but who knows the teams reason. In my opinion he should have opted for a wider (say +30) tyre here and make use of the advantages the tubeless system offers.
Being a tubeless user on a mtb in the alps in really rough terrain and hammering into rocks and sharp edges on a regular base I don’t see a single reason for not using the tubeless system over anything else when racing P-R…
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This will puncture your rim tape if you are not careful.
I’ll likely buy a ksyrium elite wheelset later this summer. What tires are best compatible with Mavic UST wheels (other than Mavic themselves)? These will be training wheels, so I’m okay with slight tradeoffs in speed for durability. Prefer 28mm.
It can be a long time until a rider can get a new wheel at P-R. Riding out a flat on a tubeless is a lot harder than a tubular. Look at Vanmarcke in the finale. Took him 10km to get a new bike. No way you could ride a tubeless as long as a tubular before you’d be riding on the rim.
A mtb tire is not equal to a 25mm tire on cobbles. There is less “cushion.” I’m willing to bet that his flats were the result of a pinch or a burp. You can pinch a tub but you can’t burp it.
Tubulars are still preferable here I think. Put some sealant in… Run wider than 25…and I think you have a better system than any tubeless system.
I think P-R and any race with long and fast descents will be tubular races for a long time yet.
There is less advantage of one over the other in most other races.
I see the point with the rather long time to wait for a spare wheel and that you might longer be able to ride a tubular compared to the clincher system. But with tubeless you can still bring an inner tube, fix the problem yourself, the same goes with bigger holes were you could use a plug. And if the sealant works on a tubular it should also do its job in a tubeless.
IMO the only aspect that counts is the burp…
And then I still don’t understand why he was on 25s?
exciting to see how products get pushed to their limits even so it takes a few contenders out of the game once in a while.
One other new data point in case anyone ever searches this relatively obscure tire -
IRC Formula Pro X-Guard 28 mm
Mounted on 19 mm internal width Hunt wheels
26.9-27.0 mm actual max width at 80 psi newly installed
These fit my 2013 Madone 3.1 with a bit of room left. Plan to use for dirt road / light gravel rides to replace 25 mm Panaracers which have been remarkably tough tires but were never intended for off road use. I also saw that IRC even has a new version of this 28 mm tubeless with a diamond tread should you want that, so I’m holding out a while longer against n+1 gravel bike 
These were tougher than the GP 5000 TL and Panaracer Race A Evos in 25 mm to get seated even using air tank at 80 psi. One new thing I did for these was to take a spare valve core and cut out the center stem with a dremmel, screwed it back in, and then put a schraeder-presta adapter onto the modified valve stem. This let a ton more air flow in and just barely got them seated with a quick massage around the rim - without this it wasn’t going to happen.
Getting the tire on the rim was a walk in the park thanks to the Kool Stop tire bead jack I think someone mentioned on here… that tool has changed my life for these installs.
Another attempt, another rim tape issue. Everything went together but lost air again. A 5cm section of tape peeled off inside.