I think you just need to experiment a bit and see how high you can go without the ride becoming uncomfortable and how low you can go without losing cornering ability, your optimal pressure is probably somewhere between those pressures
Had the first back tire spray today, sealed up a nice cut, left me with about 40psi. Broke out the Tattico and messed up seating the pump (first time using it) and bled the rest of the pressure, but it stayed on the bead. Pumped to about 60 psi and made it home no issue over the last 10 or so miles.
Satisfied customer so far.
@kurt.braeckel I think is correct. All tires are going to be on a bell curve for rolling resistance. I believe Kurt is right on the tires he has I believe they are fastest @ ~ 90 psi. The two worlds of speed vs tubeless experience do not come together perfectly. It’s preferred to be lower for all the reasons cite throughout the recent posts.
Therefore, if minimal rolling resistance is the “need” - I agree ~90 is about right for an event. If you flat you are likely out anyways, so pump up to what you think is best for your race.
It really depends on the surface. If you ride on supersmooth tarmac, maybe a dedicated crit course, yes, maybe harder tyres are better (but I still doubt 90 psi is right). The rougher it is, the lower you want to be, to avoid bouncing all over the place. It’s not just about ride feel, its also about the power (and traction) loss, which really impacts speed.
Read this article below again, for example Valverde had about 55psi in his tyres for Strade Bianca.
I said it was smooth tarmac on a closed crit course. I regularly run 90-95psi in tubes on these courses no issue. On rougher surfaces or wet, I air down.
So I’m about 3 weeks into using tubeless. The tyres are Shwalbe Pro One TLE and came with a set of used wheels I bought.
I noticed today when washing the bike that the underside of the down tube was covered in glue, and seen quite a few little hairs coming out the tyres.
Gonna buy new tyres, the same, but struggling to find them available in UK.
What’s the difference with the Pro One EVO that seems to be available and cheaper?
I think it refers to the 2020 pro one version rather than the old pro one.
Edit: wrong it seems to be the skinwall version
The tyre pressure calculators (SRAM, Silca) don’t recommend any massive difference in ideal PSI for tubeless vs tubed tyres, it’s something like 2 or 3 psi in most cases.
90 PSI is high for any 28c tyres unless the rider weights like 130kg, 70 is probably more like it, but varies with weight. For bad roads, you can reduce the pressure on tubed tyres too of course. I don’t think I’ve ever had a pinch flat on (tubed) road tyres even at ~60psi on 28c tyres, and I’m not sure tubeless allowing magically lower pressures is relevant on road, especially if you use latex tubes.
@ArHu74 … I think you might be right, that Evo is the newer version, although Shwalbe’s site doesn’t mention “EVO”
They seem to be out of stock everywhere for 25c’s
I’ve had great luck ordering from the US and they end up being cheaper than i can find locally.
Thanks @FrankTuna, I managed to find a small store in UK (Singletrackbikes) who have ordered two from their supplier for me… have to wait 4 or 5 days though. (£109 delivered)
Also, I think us in the UK might have to pay some sort of £% import duty thing on goods bought direct from Europe since Brexit… so it would probably work out the same cost. Might have to go down that avenue though if mines don’t appear!
Ive had two pinch flats this year, running around 85psi on my tubed rear in training… It’s a thing. In fact, until my puncture on Monday, the only flats I’ve had in 2022 are pinch flats… hence why I went tubeless on my training wheels.
Following this thread and noticing folks having different experiences with different psi’s, but nobody is mentioning weight. You 150-160 pounders need to realize you running 50-60 psi is a completely different story when it comes to 180lb+ people.
I never had a flat problem on my recent road bike trip, although a lot of my mates did. I had a hire bike with tubes. At the last minute I thought for a bit about taking my own bike with tubeless and that was one of my reasons for hiring a bike with tubes. I had last travelled last November with the tubeless wheels and only had to let air out of one tyre to get it in the box. The tyre completely deflated on route and leaked slightly but it re-seated 1st time with a hand pump but would I get so lucky again
I fitted new Schwalbe Pro Ones a few days ago with the Schwalbe Doc Blue sealant. The sealant said it was incompatible with CO2 cartridges…, is this the same for all sealants?
I seated the tyres using cartridges, but blew them up by pump after adding the sealant……,Is that ok?
I think most of them say the same. I often use a CO2 cannister for seating though as sometimes my air tank isn’t enough and more regular maintenance is done after that with a track pump.
I think it is the ammonia in sealant that reacts with the CO2 and causes it to ball up rapidly so many are not CO2 friendly. Finish Line was supposed to be but it is generally awful.
Are you beading the tire and releasing the CO2 to add sealant after, if so you are probably OK.
Yeah, I only used CO2 for seating them.
Here is my first ROAD tubeless experience.
Current model Zipp 404 Firecrest, S-Works Turbo RapidAir 2Bliss in 700x28. Seated with a floor pump and the valve core installed. I’ve set up NUMEROUS tubeless tires on MTB and Gravel and have NEVER been able to seat with the floor pump.
Just purchased a set of ZIP 303s and GP 5000sTL………was going to purchase the firecrest but they are out of stock……I hope I didn’t make a mistake by not waiting.