Note on Orange Seal. It won’t seal if you get a puncture in the wet. I believe sealants need air+dry to do their thing. I lost all my sealant on a wet road at mile 5 of a 96 mile ride. it suuuucked.
I’ve used my Stans Dart once, on a 28mm road tyre, and rode that tyre for another 3 months or so with the plug in. It was fine, I was curious what would happen, but in the end I changed tyres just because I didn’t like them much.
I don’t like the metal tip on the dynaplugs, plus they are quite a bit more expensive than the dart.
I think the biggest problems are punctures close to the rim, where movement from the tyre opens them up again, and its hard to get a plug in.
One nail-inflicted puncture I couldn’t plug is where the nail went through the tyre and the rim well - no putting a plug there.
First ride on road tubeless this morning, set them up last week but weather has not cooperated. 25 conti 5000 TL. My dad had bought them but couldn’t get them mounted so offered them to me.
I was going to do my half this weekend on some NIB 23 4000SII (and latex tubes) I had laying around since my race wheels had circa 2016 super sonics on them and wasn’t in the mood to possibly have 200 bucks worth of tires back ordered showing up after the race. I rode the SSs last week on 1 latex 1 butyl tube so had a little back to back testing on similar roads.
Built these wheels about 9 years ago? 100mm stems are a little short but the silca crack pipe makes that a non issue. 2 layers of PET tap sealed up the rear perfectly, held air for days with no sealant. The front had a slow leak at the bead over about 6 hours it would be down to nothing. With sealant it held the last 5 or 6 days no problem. Was a little nervous about a burp on the ride but no signs of any sort of leak or drop in pressure.
a 23 SS to a 25 5000TL is not exactly apples to apples other than both being conti but so far I’m liking them. Silca calculator said I should be about 95psi on these, I think about 100 on the SSs. Definitely was smoother and less skittish if that makes sense. Both my blackburn pumps have leaks/bad gauges so not sure exactly what pressure I had in them but it was a little less than the SSs… I’m sure I’d like them just as much on Latex tubes but no way I’d want to try and mount these with latex tubes.
I do like that they seem to hold air better than a latex tube and eliminate my one main issue with flats… At least 2x maybe 3 I have had to change a tube setting up my bike in transition because something with the valve stem on a latex tube pinched while airing up and tube failed. Eliminating that concern on race morning alone is worth the switch to me.
Looks sweet! But if the wheels are 9 years old, are you sure the rims are for tubeless tyres? The hook where the bead sits is shaped slightly differently. To be honest, I’d be nervous riding non-tubeless rims at those pressures, even if they seal fine.
Any wheel is tubeless if you want it to be as far as the hook and sealing. There are better designs that can assist in holding and also with getting the tire mounted but technically anything can be tubeless.
Now if you are talking about the latest specialized thing with the sidewall blowing out, sure that has come across my mind. It’s a tri bike it sees 150-200 miles a year outside and no curb hoping going on. I did catch air in a race going about 50mph one time but that was my old wheels and the landing was smooth 
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I’m not sure I’d agree, and while you’re welcome to run your own risks, I’d very much dissuade anyone from trying to convert non-tubeless rims and then run them on the road at high pressures.
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As far as I know, the rim has a more square hook design (and the tyre too) in a tubeless rim. A normal clincher rim has a more rounded hook.
Also I wouldn’t be worried about jumps and kerbs, I’d be worried about sharp corners and leaning the bike too much - that’s how a mate just rolled his tyre in a crit. Inserts like the vittoria ones are supposed to help with that.
I was surprised when a well known wheel manufacturer gave me instructions how to convert my circa 2014clincher wheel set to tubeless. After a wee bit of research I decided against. Hopefully there has never actually been any cases of catastrophic failure but it would always be in the back of my mind.
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No, not for road. While true for MTB, using a standard wheel converted to tubeless on the road is most definitely not recommended.
Please do not do this.
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I have Oval Concept wheels that came on a Fuji I’ve kept as a training wheelset. Not TLR wheels, but put on tape and tubeless tires and they work just fine. 6 months of use with no trouble.
On my Fuji they switched the wheelset to Ace Boondock’s that were tubeless ready. None-the-less for wide tyres running at 25psi (IMC) I don’t think I would have a problem converting them if they hadn’t been, friends have also done it with MtB tyres but for higher pressure road tyres, I would rather not. Hopefully nothing has ever happened to anybody converting road clinchers to tubeless but the niggle would always be in the back of my mind.
zero to slowtwitch real fast in here.
“don’t” isn’t a reason. So far no one has provided any examples or actual reasons not to run tubeless tires on a non tubeless rim. I’m all ears on a real discussion, doesn’t seem like anyone is interested in actually have one though.
We have one example of a tubeless tire on a tubeless rim having a failure, showing that the alleged solutions to problems no one has explained are not even resolved with the “proper” equipment. Solutions that aren’t even standard and every manufacture does their own thing by the way.
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Safety concerns in two different areas:
- tire burping or blowing off the rim from either high or low pressure and how the bead interfaces with the rim
- higher compressive forces on rim because there is no tube
Quick search and this was the first article that popped up, not the best but some discussion on safety:
I’ve seen others, believe Mavic had some good blog posts. And either Zinn on Velonews or CyclingTips all things tubeless.
This might be a better article:
skip down to this:
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Thanks for the links, read them before at some point but always good to have a refresher.
The 2020 standard doesn’t preclude a non specific tubeless rim from being compliant, nor does it actually guarantee that a tubeless labeled wheel is compliant. There is no requirement for the hump* that many tubeless tires have just an inner rim bed height and the the hook height. There is no requirement for the hook shape like mentioned above or as we see with hookless on the way, no requirement for a hook at all. Any changes one manufacture may make in shape to that hook is them not a standard and varies drastically.
The issues that may occur still do occur on many wheels labeled as tubeless because this standard is new and from a rene herse blog post (I’ll try to find it again) many tubeless rims they measured don’t meet the standard. So if the concern is the standard then being specifically labeled tubeless or not is in no way a definitive way to say that your wheel meets the standard.
And again the only mention of a failure in response to my post was someone alleging a tubeless rim and tire were used. We can all find videos of tires intentionally being over inflated and blown off rims, and stores of tires peeling off rims, tubeless and even with tubes. No real stories of tubeless on non TLR rims having issues… and people have been doing it for years.
*it seemed like maybe the UST/Mavic one did but not ETRTO.
Because people were concerned about your safety, you are labeling us as being similar to that group of toxicity? No one attacked you, laughed at you or ridiculed you…people simply said “probably not a good idea, please don’t do it.”
It is ultimately your choice…do what you want. But there have been plenty of articles advising people not to convert regular road wheels to tubeless.
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^ you have the consumer facing info, it’s your call.
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No, because blanket statements being made that no one has any information to back it up are being made. You’ve still not provided any information other than don’t. Not why, just don’t. That helps exactly 0 people.
There are also countless articles about doing it, park even has a video about doing it. I’ve yet to actually read a single article that says don’t do it that isn’t either promoting a specific tubeless product ( many of which don’t meet the new standard most likely) or they just repeat don’t but don’t say why, like is happening here.
Even the new standard doesn’t dictate any sort of hook or special retention system, just dimensions. Standard that not everyone follows and is so new the majority of tubeless labeled wheels that predate it likely don’t necessarily meet it. So the safety concern apparently needs to apply to running tubeless period not just some setup you disagree with but can’t provide any information on why.
The consumer facing info is that the market is a free for all, it took long to come up with a standard and that not everyone follows it anyway. That no matter whether it is labeled tubeless or not there is an inherent risk.
The consumer facing info does not show that just because a wheel is not labeled tubeless that it is anymore a risk than one labeled tubeless.
The only things that have been side might happen running a non tubeless labeled rim are things that have been posted as examples of things that happen on tubeless labeled rims.
Others did…you can also use Google yourself. But since you insist….
You seem pretty irritated about people trying to help you….again, do as you wish.
We have different interpretations. Not going to debate it. Ride on.
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