That’s the one that gives the numbers I’ve been using in training (72/78… I run 75/80). It specifies for Zipp wheels, but probably a good start point for most.
1 Like
I think you just need to experiment a bit and see how high you can go without the ride becoming uncomfortable and how low you can go without losing cornering ability, your optimal pressure is probably somewhere between those pressures
1 Like
Had the first back tire spray today, sealed up a nice cut, left me with about 40psi. Broke out the Tattico and messed up seating the pump (first time using it) and bled the rest of the pressure, but it stayed on the bead. Pumped to about 60 psi and made it home no issue over the last 10 or so miles.
Satisfied customer so far.
3 Likes
@kurt.braeckel I think is correct. All tires are going to be on a bell curve for rolling resistance. I believe Kurt is right on the tires he has I believe they are fastest @ ~ 90 psi. The two worlds of speed vs tubeless experience do not come together perfectly. It’s preferred to be lower for all the reasons cite throughout the recent posts.
Therefore, if minimal rolling resistance is the “need” - I agree ~90 is about right for an event. If you flat you are likely out anyways, so pump up to what you think is best for your race.
It really depends on the surface. If you ride on supersmooth tarmac, maybe a dedicated crit course, yes, maybe harder tyres are better (but I still doubt 90 psi is right). The rougher it is, the lower you want to be, to avoid bouncing all over the place. It’s not just about ride feel, its also about the power (and traction) loss, which really impacts speed.
Read this article below again, for example Valverde had about 55psi in his tyres for Strade Bianca.
1 Like
I said it was smooth tarmac on a closed crit course. I regularly run 90-95psi in tubes on these courses no issue. On rougher surfaces or wet, I air down.
3 Likes
I think it refers to the 2020 pro one version rather than the old pro one.
Edit: wrong it seems to be the skinwall version
The tyre pressure calculators (SRAM, Silca) don’t recommend any massive difference in ideal PSI for tubeless vs tubed tyres, it’s something like 2 or 3 psi in most cases.
90 PSI is high for any 28c tyres unless the rider weights like 130kg, 70 is probably more like it, but varies with weight. For bad roads, you can reduce the pressure on tubed tyres too of course. I don’t think I’ve ever had a pinch flat on (tubed) road tyres even at ~60psi on 28c tyres, and I’m not sure tubeless allowing magically lower pressures is relevant on road, especially if you use latex tubes.
1 Like
Maybe here??
I’ve had great luck ordering from the US and they end up being cheaper than i can find locally.
2 Likes
Ive had two pinch flats this year, running around 85psi on my tubed rear in training… It’s a thing. In fact, until my puncture on Monday, the only flats I’ve had in 2022 are pinch flats… hence why I went tubeless on my training wheels.
Following this thread and noticing folks having different experiences with different psi’s, but nobody is mentioning weight. You 150-160 pounders need to realize you running 50-60 psi is a completely different story when it comes to 180lb+ people.
5 Likes
I never had a flat problem on my recent road bike trip, although a lot of my mates did. I had a hire bike with tubes. At the last minute I thought for a bit about taking my own bike with tubeless and that was one of my reasons for hiring a bike with tubes. I had last travelled last November with the tubeless wheels and only had to let air out of one tyre to get it in the box. The tyre completely deflated on route and leaked slightly but it re-seated 1st time with a hand pump but would I get so lucky again 
1 Like
I think most of them say the same. I often use a CO2 cannister for seating though as sometimes my air tank isn’t enough and more regular maintenance is done after that with a track pump.
1 Like
I think it is the ammonia in sealant that reacts with the CO2 and causes it to ball up rapidly so many are not CO2 friendly. Finish Line was supposed to be but it is generally awful.
Are you beading the tire and releasing the CO2 to add sealant after, if so you are probably OK.
1 Like
Here is my first ROAD tubeless experience.
Current model Zipp 404 Firecrest, S-Works Turbo RapidAir 2Bliss in 700x28. Seated with a floor pump and the valve core installed. I’ve set up NUMEROUS tubeless tires on MTB and Gravel and have NEVER been able to seat with the floor pump.
2 Likes
Just purchased a set of ZIP 303s and GP 5000sTL………was going to purchase the firecrest but they are out of stock……I hope I didn’t make a mistake by not waiting.
Has anyone tried the Silca Tire Sealant with the carbon fiber threads?
i got a newbie question 
If I remove the valve and refresh the sealant, do I need to reseat the tyre and pump up to 160 psi?
I know i have to do this if i am removing the tyre. but i am not removing the tyre.
No, it should stay seated when you deflate it. Just let the air out, take the valve core out, put sealant in, put valvecore back in, re-inflate to desired pressure.
If it becomes unseated during deflation, you’ll notice - usually it’ll make a noise and you can see that tyre is no longer seated fully. But I’ve only seen that happen on freshly seated tyres that hadn’t been ridden yet.
No, its very rare IME that the tyre will need reseated, most times the old sealant will keep the tyre sealed to the rim. FWIW I have never pumped to 160psi.
2 Likes