Sea Otter release.
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I have them on my MTB (We Are One Union Rims).
I’ve never really had a problem seating Maxxis MTB tires with just a floor pump and didn’t notice a difference with the Filmore valves. It definitely takes less pumps to fill a tire. You can shoot sealant easier through the valve without it getting clogged. On a standard tubeless valve, I just remove the core to do this so its not that much of an advantage.
Two big cons I have noticed
- They do not work with a Topeak D2 SmartGauge*. They may not work with any standard presta gauge. Their unique design basically applies too much force and you can’t get inner valve(?) to depress and let air into the gauge. * if you put a presta/schrader adapter on the valve and then use the D2 Smartgauge in schrader mode it kinda works but that’s a pain.
2.If you lose the valve cover/cap they come with, you are screwed because they are unique and you need them to keep the valve from getting bumped/losing air/filled with crud.
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Bringing up this old thread as I just installed two more Fillmore valves.
My Reserve 40|44 GR wheel set I got last year came with standard valves. Had never used the Fillmore so didn’t think too much into it. During a ride I went to unscrew a cap once and the core came out on the traditional valves and I lost all my air. I was able to hand tighten and pump up so not a huge deal. After that I packed a little core removal tool in my bag in case it happened again.
This winter I bought a second Reserve wheel set, the 42|49. This came with the Fillmore valves. Wow do they take some air fast, and overall just seem like way better quality and less moving parts.
I picked up a second set of the valves for my 40|44 wheels and installed them today. I quoted the above section today, because as I was playing musical chairs moving tires around to different wheels and such today, I noticed I didn’t need an air compressor on a single wheel with the Fillmore valves. This is likely due to the floor pump pushing in so much air faster that it holds its shape more between pumps and sets in place easier.
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A set of Fillmore valves came with my 42/49 wheelset as well. They’ve been an improvement over presta valves running tubeless. No more clogged presta cores to replace, higher volume airflow (can seat a tire without removing core), no more presta cores unthreading with thread on air chucks.
Bought a second set (sometimes they’re sold cheap on ebay) for my MTB wheels and they work fine with foam inserts as well.
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If we’re re-opening the topic, I like mine a lot, but I can’t seem to get sealant through my valves. I pour it into the tire when installing, and to top-up, I’d partly unseat the bead. No complaints otherwise.
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I adore mine. I only have them on the XC bike but every time I’m on one of the other bikes I’m like, “urgh, I REALLY must change these blummin valves”
The only thing that took time to get used to was how quickly they let air back out. I have, too often, tried a quick trailside pressure adjustment only to have to get the pump out my bag to put air back in 
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Maybe I’m alone in never really having an issue with the standard Presta, but I’m out on the Fillmore valves to the point I took them off a set of reserves. One of my hand pumps doesn’t seal or depress the valve very well, which was pretty annoying. The main reason is the reliance on a cap. I had a small puncture in a race and thought I was being smart by putting it in a jersey pocket, rather than on the ground. I never found the cap again, and one of the two valves stays open without the cap tightened, while the other works without a cap. I’d rather take out a valve core every couple of months than deal with a cap every time I air up tires.
Which sealant? I inject Stan’s through my valves.
Orange Seal.