I need to replace the chainrings on my tri bike. I have never done this before and not sure my skill is there. Is the only thing I need to do is take the bolts out on the chainring, switch them out and tighten the bolts up? I am replacing them with the same rings. Do I have to recalibrate the power meter? If I need to remove the power meter I’ll need to take it to a shop, was hoping I could save some money and do this without removing the cranks.
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As long as you have access to the nut on the back side you should be able to replace the rings without removing anything but the bolts. Be sure to re torque the bolts to spec. You might replace the chain at the same time to eliminate any wear pattern weirdness.
Remove the cranks. It’s a single self extracting bolt.
The Elsa does not need to be recalibrated when replacing rings. A torque wrench is recommended.
I’m not familiar with that crankset but if the chainrings can be mounted in more than one location on the spider, or the inner and outer rings are mounted separately, make sure they match the same orientation against the crank arm as the originals.
It’s usually recommended to replace the chain ring bolts at the same time. Granted many don’t. When replacing your chainrings measure them, usually 6 or 8mm in length, so you can get replacement ones, for next time you replace the chain rings. Bolts are cheap and no brainer to replace.
Replacing chainrings is among the easier things to do on your bike. Rings do need to be installed in a specific way but it should be very obvious. Inner rings will generally denote which side faces outward and the outer ring is easy to determine as there will be an anti drop pin that goes directly behind the crankarm to keep the chain from dropping in there and jamming. The best thing to do is go slowly and make mental
note of exactly how the old rings were mounted and put the new ones on the same way. I have never heard of replacing chainring bolts at ring replacement but it would be cheap insurance. One last tip, grease the O.D. Of each bolt. That will help prevent noise as they can creak and pop which is infuriating and not always easy to diagnose.
I don’t have specific experience with that crank, but often the small ring can’t be removed over the spider and crank arm so the crank must be removed. The small ring will have a notch on the inside of the ring that is supposed to line up with the crank arm. Stamped printing on the small ring should face the NDS.
Thanks for the info everyone, I am going to have to remove the crank. I need to order a new chain first though. I’ll try and remember to post once I do this.