PF30 Bottom Bracket Loosening Unevenly?

BB or BB shell is out of spec.

If the hole is too large, or not round, or the BB cup is too small, it is easy to see how it could walk.

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The crankset installation takes up any free play, I can’t get my head around it ‘walking’ as there should be nowhere for it to go

I’m on the same page as @Boombang - don’t get it if the the crank cap has been tightened to pull the right side against the BB. Unless the crank spindle is too long for the BB or there is something else stopping the right side being pulled into place?

Anyway, I’m not a bike mechanic, definitely take it to somebody who is.

These things suck, I know. Is it the frame, is it the BB, is it poor installation?

  • BB with metal cups → use some special loctite
  • or use BB with plastic/deldrin cups. These are a little oversized

I once had a Rotor or WMF threaded pressfit BB. Manual stated explicitly not to glue the thread which holds the cups /shell together. I was already wondering. A-race day came. At some stage during the race I was wondering why I was pushing so much watts but not being able to keep up with my pack. After the race I noticed that my cranks were not spinning anymore. Well, they were, but only with a lot of additional force. The drive side cup came loose and pushed against the crank causing lots of friction.

Now I’m back to regular SRAM/Shimano plastic cups. Give us threaded BB again, BSA or T47, I don’t care.

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Had never really thought about it until you mentioned that about these screw together BBs for press fit frames. They can still unwind themselves due to precession as there is only one set of threads which means both halves can’t have the threads the correct way round as in a BSA bottom bracket.

Mike

Yes, these threaded PF BBs are not necessarily a solution either.

I must say I’ve never really had much issues with regular PF BBs. It’s more the hassle with de-/installation. Threaded PF BBs are quite expensive (in comparision). And depending on the frame BB shell type installation can be a pain. I had to go through with this for two frames. The coming loose was just the “peak” of my experience.

I’m actually looking for a new gravel frame. BB shell type is a key factor for me. A big favourite would be the new Factor frame. HOwever, it has these stupid headset and BB standards (1 3/4 and BBright). Lost any interest, especially because of the BB. I have a Hollowtech-style P2M NG. And those 24mm Adapter options look lousy for BBright. I wish they had gone with T47 or just BSA.

Interesting thought on the DS not being properly set. I still think there are likely also some missing spacers, But I’m not convinced that is the root issue.

The BB is moving out unevenly- so there is some ‘play’ between frame and BB shell that is allowing it to move off axis. This movement is what pushes the crankarm out. I don’t see it as a “press fit” issue. It’s not a design issue, but a manufacturing issue.

For those saying that there should be no space for crankarm play- Yes, but also no. The two pinch bolts holding the crank are the only thing stopping the NDS arm from moving outboard. If you remove a crank, and try to pull it apart with some torque on those bolts, you will find that the NDS crankarm will still move. Obviously proper torque is a mitigator, but it is still a pinch hold on a non tapered spline. And if the BB shell pushed the crankarm out, it would still feel tight and without play, because it is still effectively snugged up against the bearing, albeit at a wider stance.

This is the kind of thing I’d like to see in person, because of morbid curiosity. Hopefully they take care of OP under warranty.

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Just to update people - LBS from which I bought took the bike last week. Agreed something wasn’t right. They removed the chainset and bottom bracket, checked everything over and reassembled it. They felt (all other things considered equal) that there was sufficient friction when reinstalling for it not to be a problem. Next step is to see how that fares and then go back to them if it walks out again.

Sorry to revive this old thread… but wanted to see if you had an update on the bearing. Did they fix it? Has Orbea been involve? how are they treating you?

Hey, no problem, happy to update. Bike shop for in touch with Orbea, who wanted the frame back to have a look. If they felt the frame was within tolerance it would just be sent back with a new OEM BB installed.

Then due to delays with the bike shop themselves and Brexit, I gave the bike shop an ultimatum last week - take the bike off my hands and send it back to Orbea ASAP or put in a new high end BB at their expense and if that fails send it back to Orbea. Bike shop chose the latter option so BB on order at present.

Honestly Brexit is a disaster, Orbea aren’t dealing with customers direct in the UK any longer, everything is through dealers. Which is an issue for me as the bike shop just aren’t proactive and on top of things. Shame as they’re good guys but just so lax. Will report back on the BB and how it goes.

I got in touch with Hambini to ask if his PF30 to Shimano BB would work with the GRX components, he replied: ‘I think GRX cranksets require an offset BB so you may need some spacers and the such like to sort the chainline out – I’m not totally sure as you are the first person to ask me this question’.

He also said if the frame is way out of alignment his products won’t fix it. If the new bottom bracket going in doesn’t solve the problem (see new reply above) I’ll be confident about going back to Orbea and saying ‘this is your problem, sort it out’.

Jeez, sounds like a lot of work for you to end up with something that’s still not quite right, even if it works.

If the bike is going to be stripped down by a bike shop who aren’t super responsive, go back to the Basque country under Brexit shipping conditions (form several reports a lot of couriers experiencing delays) then I want a positive outcome from Orbea. I feel getting the bike shop to put a new, better BB in first skips out a potential step where Orbea send it back as it’s just within tolerance, and suggest putting in a new BB to see how it goes. Anyway, it’s a pain in the arse which is a shame as otherwise the bike is great and does a super job with both gravel and road wheels.

Well you can consider me worried…
I am receiving my brand new MyO Orbea Terra in the US next month and I am looking forward to it. I hear the bike is great from everyone (including you) but issues like this are scary. Specially because my bike shop (the closest Orbea Dealer) is 4 hours from my house.
Of course, I am hoping this is a one off issue in your case, but that obviously doesn’t help you.

Fingers crossed you get yours fixed!
Thanks for the update.

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I hope you love the bike and it is just a one off for me!

@swgregg did you have much luck with the new BB? I ask because I have exactly this problem with a 6 month old Boardman that uses the same FSA BB.

I’m debating whether to send it back to Boardman under warranty or try a BB from
wheels mfg first…

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Hey sorry for slow reply. The problem seems to have resolved itself with the bike shop using a retaining compound on a new version of the same bottom bracket. They said it was going to come back to me with a better bottom bracket and I’m no longer going to be using them based on that, it’s the final straw. A new bike shop had a look for me and at generally happy with how things look, but they said if the problem arises again they would try a Praxis BB before warrantying the frame as they have seen a lot of creaky PF BBS sorted with a Praxis one. Good luck!

Thanks @swgregg !

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Sorry to dredge this one back up - @swgregg how have you got on since with the BB? This is one of the only things stopping me from picking up one of these frames.

Also not to dilute the thread but @alvaroe16 have you experienced any of these issues with your BB? Trying to assess how widespread an issue this is for this model.

I have about 4000 miles in the Orbea Terra and no issues so far! I love the bike.

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Thank you for the update, here’s to many more miles!