Di2 electronic parts compatibility chart
https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/com?acid=C-562&cid=C-431
Hopefully 12s becomes more backward compatible with 11s by firmware update
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Itâs âa dealâ though. And if you donât care about it they let you wire it in still so your brifters never go dead.
SRAM has been trying to push it. The pro peloton has asked for special chainrings so they can largely ignore it. Rotor has their 1x13 supposedly, have they actually sold any volume of that? 1x12 might be better, but roadies havenât been convinced at all.
Shimano and SRAM have almost identical progression charts⌠Shimano is just using bigger cogs.
If one of their major goals was âeliminate the need to wire into the handlebars because SRAM is killing us with itâ thatâs a non-option.
Personally I find the whole wired vs wireless thing kind of silly on road bikes especially.
A. How many times are you running wires during ownership of the bike/how much time are you saving over the life of the bike not running wires?
B. Having one battery for everything is nice, no worry about which component might die (with di2 itâs always the FD first which in the worst case scenario still leaves you with a working RD and 9-10 gears in the back to use.
Sure on a full suspension MTB the wireless is nicer since running cables takes longer and cables in the frame could be annoying if youâre taking apart pieces of the frame for repair or bushing service, etc. this is not a problem on single piece frame road bikes
Also donât get why the new Shifters are wireless with hydro brakes but wired only for Rim brakes, but I guess rim brake guys should be thanking their lucky stars for even getting consideration here
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The ONLY reason I like the idea of wireless is because of simplicity of the setup. Just 2 cables (of tubes if hydraulic brakes).
I personally dont mind having a wired system. If I were making a bike from scratch myself, I would preferred the simplicity of wirelessâŚ
but thats itâŚ
I suspect the whole âwiredlessâ approach is also driven somewhat by pro preferences, i.e. pro mechanics having to run wires through an entire teamâs frames (40+ bikes), or a larger battery not needing to be charged everyday (I imagine it is a huge chore to get a full teamâs set of AXS batteries charged after every stage of a Grand Tour, youâd need upwards of 20 plug-ins). Shimano will always be trying to sell components to a large market, but their professional team input also goes a long way. We forget that if you are looking at Ultegra and Dura Ace level components, you are looking at groupsets that are specifically designed for racing, and that includes all of the logistics in addition to the obvious factors like weight, ergonomics, and shift-speed. If you want a groupset without a racing focus, there are options out there.
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Anecdotally, Iâve been on more rides where people had a gear cable fray/break (maybe 3?) than people had di2 issues (zero). Not sure what the failure rates are in the wild across the population be both mechanical and electronic have their failure points. I think electronic just gets blown up more because itâs ânewâ and lots of bike people like to be elitist about their 10spd campy mechanical steel bike with external routing.
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In 30 years I have never seen a cable fray or break. Is this an offroad thing?
Def not an off road thing. This actually happened the day my Di2 kit came in. Mechanical knew it was done for and decided to be spiteful
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Frayed cables in the newer Shimano internal routed cables (R7900, R6800 & all similar models since those, up to and including the latest R9100 & R8000) is a fairly common and known issue.
- There is a very small radius bend in the shifter that can lead to severe fraying (that degrades shifting performance) and can quickly turn to a full break if not addressed.
- That bend overstresses the winding and leads to relatively early failure compared to other shifter designs.
- Itâs common suggestion to replace the cables in this style shift more frequently to reduce the risk of issues. Iâve seen frays start on my own bikes, and plenty in our shop over the years. Not rare at all, IMO.
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Ultegra shift lever thing. Iâve been on at least three group rides where it happened to some. General rule of thumb - replace your cables about once a year and f you ride 400 hours/year.
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Definitely not. It happened to my mom twice in maybe 3 or 4 months on ultegra 6800 (right shifter) and has happened to me twice this year on 105 r7000 Itâs definitely a real thing.
You typically get ~3-5 hours of weird and inconsistent shifting (doesnât go into the smaller cogs easily) before it really breaks.
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+1 for 6800 cables deciding to explode in the shifter.
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Wow, Iâve been running the same 7900 drivetrain for 20 years and never seen it. I do change out my cables every couple of years though.
edit - strike that, Iâve been riding 7700 for 20 years (9 speed - not internally routed through the lever) Explains why Iâve never had it happen to me. However, Iâve never seen it happen to anyone else eitherâŚ
I keep forgetting that Iâm a tinker, for example my last gravel bike was a SS D/A bike with a goat link and a 11-36 cassette and a N/W chainring. Iâve never used a clutch until recently
Pretty sure Mark Beaumont rode across Africa with Di2!
I forget which article (cyclingtips?) mentioned limited availability at the end of October 2021, but when I asked my wrench he said next March. Looks like the quickest way to get the new 9200 is probably on a new bike 
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Link to a new thread related to just the power meter cranks:
Can someone explain to me 2x12 with standard road / road compact cassette gearing? (please donât bother)
12sp 11-12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21 -24 -27 -30 223gr (does the 16t gear really add any value??)
11sp 11-12-13-14-15 -17-19-21 -24 -27 -30 211gr
11sp 11-12-13-14-15 -17-19-21-23-25 -28 193gr
10sp 11-12-13-14-15 -17-19-21-23-25 175gr
10sp 11-12-13-14-15 -17-19-21 -24 -28 185gr
I totally get 1x12 wide range, but it looks like 2x12 narrow range is completely unnecessary as implemented. I like gearing range, but the steps in the basic cassette lack value-add. I donât see 1x12 helpful over 1x11 until you youâre at 11-34+. I just donât see the need for 2x12sp unless youâre trying to run bigger rings on the front or a bigger chainring spread. Shiamano has the chainring spreads the same as prior and has dropped âfullâ 53/39t altogether (and consolidated their DA only pro gearing), leaving only âMid-Compactâ and âCompactâ.
vs a 10sp âstraight deckâ - youâre just peppering in unnecessary gears and yield two extra low gears in sum. If you look at 10sp 11-28, which is great to use, you really only get a 1/2 gear lower. Shimano basically added 40gr of cassette to their road cassette over 10sp and 11sp (not worth it for the 16t; but maybe for the 28t vs 30t)
48t x 11-32t flat road cyclist⌠
28 is the bailout gear! Theyâre putting you in 52/36 to begin withâŚ. Thatâs the bailout gear! Youâre always in bailout gear. 36/28 is double bailout. 36/30⌠how can you look a Belgian person in the eye? Or even you 19yr old self? 
Yeah, and I think Shimanoâs focus on pro road racers is actually limiting them. Thatâs why they donât have a good do-it-all groupset like SRAM does, thatâs why they were late to the gravel party and IMHO still havenât cracked it. And thatâs why they are still ignoring the 1x trend on road bikes.
Shimano seems to be proud of offering 54/40 chain rings to the public, but nothing smaller than compact. No proper large range cassettes either. IMHO this is misguided and a mistake. How often do you want to pedal at speeds >65 km/h on public roads? (For the record, thatâs the speed I spin out at with my 1x setup.