Lower Power Reading Wahoo Kickr Snap

Normally I use my Stages power meter on the trainer, but I had to send my bike into the shop. I threw my backup bike onto the Wahoo Kickr Snap (wheel on) so I’m trying to use power from the Kickr. I realize there might be a discrepancy but I’m seeing >150W lower readings. As in, my heart rate approaches max at 140W (that’s normally lower than 50% FTP for me). So something is clearly wrong.

Any tips would make life way easier for me!


My buddy has one and he said if he turns the resistance knob 3 full turns that helps with low reading watts. But his wasn’t as far off as you describe.

It has to be a setup difference. Is the wheel the same, tire pressure, resistance, did you warmup the machine and then calibrate? Is the wheel slipping or too loose? If all else is consistent, hold the flywheel and try to pull down on the wheel to spin it. Holding the flywheel the wheel shouldn’t slip. Now you know it’s not too loose. To ensure it’s not to tight though it takes a little finesse. You want it tight enough not to slip but not so tight it provides extra resistance. Do this in a workout, it shouldn’t slip unless you really mash the pedals like in a max sprint. You can keep backing off the knob until the wheel slips in a workout, then tighten slightly.

Furthermore, stages power versus Wahoo power is not comparable, it could be quite a bit off. Probably not as big as what you’re seeing though.

@Tezz @MI-XC

Thanks for the tips, guys. I’m doing an outdoor ride tomorrow but I’ll try this later in the day or Monday morning on my recovery ride.


Sounds like my experience with the Snap. As power went up the difference between my Snap and my 4iii power meter increased exponentially. I swapped it and the replacement was just as bad. Got a refund and bought a Hammer. The Hammer is close to my power meter. The 4iii power meter is almost watt for watt identical with my new Assioma Duo power meter pedals.

Wahoo support were useless and said my power meter was the problem.

I have noticed that when I ride consistently at a steady cadence and power (my perception) my power output is all over the place. I can get it within 10 points but it does not bother me at this stage. So, I am pretty sure the power accuracy is on the lower side, but hey it work for me.


In the end I did the factory calibration and it resolved the issue. I had forgotten that this was a different procedure than a regular spin down, which I do before every ride.

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It is good you found a procedure that seems to work for you.

My personal experience with a SNAP was an earlier model (maybe it was first gen?). I found it seemed constantly off from any of my 3 Powertap Wheels. I fought with regular spindown, knob tightening, wheel pressure and a few “advanced spindown” tries.

In the end my summary was that from time to time I felt it was “close enough” (within 3-5% or so is my recollection). Other times I was often 5-10% off, maybe 15% depending on the variables mentioned above… I don’t think I was ever 150W+ off.

I gave up and traded it in for a full gen 2 Kickr and have been really happy with it. I felt that it may be possible to get it close from time to time, the variables causing the day-to-day gamble drove me nuts.

Again, good you have a solution, but posting this in case someone in the future wants to read another experience :slight_smile: