Yup, my bad & will correct above. That’s what I get for quick math after a workout. 
I took 2 pcs of 1x6 (~18” long, IIRC) and glued them together. Then I glued some drawer liner on top so the regular wheel block would not slip off.
So only about 1.5” in height, total.
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Quick follow up to this …
I went down to the cave after reading this thread yesterday and propped up the front of my bike by about 1 inch using left over tiles we used to build my daughter a pandemic-era dance floor … I have an Inside Ride e-flex system so I had to lift the entire front unit, not just a tire.
The I did a 2-hour Z2 ride, which is training intensity and duration that notoriously hard on my undercarriage, and the difference was remarkable. It definitely tilted my weight back more in my sit bones and essentially eliminated any perineal numbness while also alleviating pressure on my shoulders. I’m doing 3-hours of Z2 today, so that will be another good sample set.
I was afraid the muscle recruitment was going to feel unnatural or more akin to climbing, but at that minimal level of rise it felt pretty standard.
This was a great tip! I can’t believe after all the years I’ve spent on this board I never stumbled across this nugget before. I used to use a climbing block under my tire several years ago before getting an e-flex, but that was definitely a bridge too far and the muscle recruitment was legit different.
Anyway - great info, and I’d recommend for anyone looking to modify their set up for better comfort🤘
EDIT: Another tip I’d recommend is flipping your stem to the ‘high’ position … keeps your weight more centered as well.
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That’s awesome to hear you had such a great experience! 
An additional trick I use for long Endurance on the trainer. Consider mixing in low cadence efforts at various intervals. I do this as a swap each of the typical 5-20 minute efforts at the TR interval blocks. The lower cadence requires higher force on the pedals. This decreases the load my saddle enough to reduce some of the overloading present at higher cadence, lower force efforts.
Yup, different way to a similar goal. It’s good for a bike dedicated to the trainer, but a wheel lu\ift is better when swapping the same bike between inside and outside.
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I do this a lot and it totally helps. My normal inside cadence on all intervals SS and below has adapted to about ~75RPM for this very reason … while outside my normal cadence is 90-95RPM.
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Sweet! Sounds like you have the full bag-o-tricks now 
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Yeah, my indoor bike has my stem flipped around +6* but it is a deviated trainer bike.
When I adapted my TT bike to be able to ride it inside, it was inrideable outside….so if you change the fit on your bike to work better indoors, you are better off using a dedicated bike, like Chad noted.
Glad it worked for you…more people should do this!!
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Yep … agree. I have a dedicated trainer bike, so it makes all this easier, possible.
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