Headset casing stuck

So I was replacing my headset bearings as one does. The top bearings came out easily. The bottom one I tapped out. Then they just fell apart. Leaving only the outer metal ring still in the frame. I am unsure what to do and think the rust has kinda bonded it into the frame. The problem is it’s a Crux. So there is a little carbon lip right above the spot the headset bearing goes. So I can’t tap it from the top. I kinda need the bike up and running asap as SBT is next week.

Any advice would be welcome. I have tried all the normal stuff.

Advice 1: Take it to a shop that has an expanding bearing race puller. You can probably get in there with a thin flathead and patience but I wouldn’t risk it.

Advice 2: No tinkering with bikes in the 2 weeks leading to an important race, maybe even longer!

Yeah. IDK. That looks tricky. If it were mine I try grinding and shaping a tool to catch the top edge of the race enough to try to tap it out from above. If that failed, I’d clean it up real well hit it with PB B’laster. and then gently tap the race around it’s perimeter trying to get it to loosen up. As ingluis29 mentions, an expanding puller could work, but the shop I was at didn’t have anything that big.

On new bikes I pull the headset and slather the crap out of it with grease. Then avoid hitting it with any spray while cleaning the bike.

Advice 3: Have a Specialized shop do it, so they can get you a free replacement when they break your frame. :slight_smile:

This ^

I’d remove some of the race/bearing material until it’s structurally weak enough to get out. A small carbide burr or tiny grinder wheel (dremel) would probably do it. But it’s an easy thing to screw up and get into the carbon. Definitely something I’d consider paying someone else to screw up if you have any doubts. And I’d only trust a repair like that to an individual I really trust. A lazy shop might just pry it out without much care about damaging the carbon. And it shouldn’t be a big deal if they do a little cosmetic carbon damage, I just get very nervous about the head tube (not an area you want failing).

This is what I’d use. You can be very precise with these, but it’s also very easy for the burr to jump away from the piece (and instantly damage the surrounding area) if you don’t have experience working with them. I like these over a grinding wheel because they don’t cause heat build up in the piece.

Update. Got it OUT!!!

Just had to take some rust removal and set it on it and soak it over night. Then Took a screw driver and wedged it in. Then took another screwdriver and hit the other screw driver to tap it out.

Sweet!

I am so glad! I’ve been hovering over this thread worried for you! I have a race this Saturday and I imagined what my anxiety would be in the same situation.

:+1:t3: :partying_face: