Are you planning to be at the pointy end of the race? Or are you tackling this as a “life achievement” and looking to become a finisher? Answering that question greatly influences the type of geometry that you want.
If you’re just tackling this to be a finisher, you’re going to want some comfort to make sure you can stay in the saddle that long. Look at the endurance gravel options like the Specialized Diverge, Cannondale Topstone and Salsa Cutthroat.
If you’re planning to be closer to the front of the race, go for the more aggressive options that make it easier to get low and cut through the wind. Felt Breed, Salsa Warbird, Lauf True Grit all fit this category. Most cyclocross bikes fit in here too, but some people don’t like the twitchier handling of cross bikes for gravel.
I recommend that you be able to fit at least a 38mm tire. 38mm seems to be the “goto” for a good weather tire and 42mm with a little more knob on them for wet days.
If you ride a MTB or fat bike, just make sure you’ve got your seat high enough. The flat bar crowd isn’t always familiar with those higher seat positions necessary to save your knees for 100 and 200 mile road/gravel rides. I saw a lot of people struggling with seats that were two low last year.
britter440
Are you planning to be at the pointy end of the race? Or are you tackling this as a “life achievement” and looking to become a finisher? Answering that question greatly influences the type of geometry that you want.
If you’re just tackling this to be a finisher, you’re going to want some comfort to make sure you can stay in the saddle that long. Look at the endurance gravel options like the Specialized Diverge, Cannondale Topstone and Salsa Cutthroat.
If you’re planning to be closer to the front of the race, go for the more aggressive options that make it easier to get low and cut through the wind. Felt Breed, Salsa Warbird, Lauf True Grit all fit this category. Most cyclocross bikes fit in here too, but some people don’t like the twitchier handling of cross bikes for gravel.
This is all excellent advice.
I recommend that you be able to fit at least a 38mm tire. 38mm seems to be the “goto” for a good weather tire and 42mm with a little more knob on them for wet days.
I would suggest the opposite. Go a little wider for comfort on a dry day, and go smaller to sacrifice ride quality for mud clearance if it’s rainy.
I worried I’d have an issue with that but I really don’t. On dirt you really don’t notice it at all. It’s essentially the same gearing as my MTB and I’ve never had an issue on that bike.
On the road, once in a blue moon I might think… “oh I’d like to be a couple RPM different” but then the terrain changes and you don’t notice it. And that’s being really picky. I’m surprised at how capable it is.
With two wheel sets the 3T could easily be a great gravel bike and mix it up on the road as well. I think your only limiter on fast group rides would be spinning out on the descents before a 53-11 or 48-10 (whatever your standard road gearing is). But even then, with a 44-10 you’re not that far off. I’m thoroughly impressed with the bike.
Yeah, I guess it depends on the type of “wet.” I was thinking in terms of traction to reduce any slipping on hills. I wasn’t thinking “sticky mud” when I said that.
But since we brought up tire choices for DK… keep in mind that the narrower you go, the better chance you have of flatting. The gravel in the area is primarily limestone because that’s what is readily available in the quarries nearby. The more well maintained roads will be 3/4" to 1" gravel. But there was 2.5" to 3" gravel on some of the “B” roads we traveled on last year. Although the big stuff on some of the “B” roads can be a concern, the real threat is the flint that works it’s way up out of the ground an into the roads during the freeze/thaw cycle. It’s quite hard and quite sharp, but you can minimize your chances of it ending your day.
Wide tires to disperse the pressure on the contact patch.
Hike a bike every water crossing (even if it’s small unless you can bunny hop it). That water just helps lube up the cutting edge of the flint.
When the dual tires on the truck/tractor have left 2 ruts and a ridge in the road. Ride the ridge, not the rut. Riding the rut exposes your sidewall to the flint.
New tires for race day.
I saw a LOT of flat tires last year and every one that I saw was either due to using a worn tire, riding through the water, or torn sidewalls from riding through ruts.
I can also tell you that I saw a ton of tread patterns in the road from Gravel King SKs and Maxxis Rambler tires and we did not see a single person on the side of the road with either of those two tires. That’s enough to make me favor those two tires for gravel riding from now on.
I had some ramblers come with my new bike. size 40 but measured maybe 38 on my rims. I got a pair of wtb resolute 42s. I’ve been mostly lucky regarding getting flats.
I did L&F last year on an Open UPPER. Ran 38mm Ramblers and thought it was perfect setup for the conditions. Love the bike, and no, not what I’d call a budget option, but it’s lived up to my expectations.
Unfortunately didn’t finish the race. Knee blew up and got swept up at mile 93ish with mostly descending asphalt left, just couldn’t keep pace doing the 1 leg pedal… was pretty bummed. I was fit enough to finish, just not strong/healthy enough in the general sense I guess. Definitely wasn’t the bikes fault. lol
Going again this year, signed up for the 100. Going to run a more appropriate gearing so I keep the rpm higher on the ascents, and get across the finish this year – and won’t be hobbling around to ortho/sports med appointments for weeks after . It’s an amazingly well-rounded bike, really happy with it.
Is there anything out there that splits the difference between road bike geo and something as progressive as the Evil? Everything I’m looking at has a 71 degree HTA.
. It’s an amazingly well-rounded bike, really happy with it.