I had a 2014 Crockett Disc that I used as my one bike. I think you probably have the newer version. Now having a proper road bike (Emonda) and a gravel bike (Checkpoint), I would NOT worry about having a CX frameset. You’re really only giving up tire clearance, some ride quality, and mounting points .
Don’t exceed the factory recommendation on the rear due to the sandy soil, I ate through the paint by not leaving dirt clearance at the Barry Roubaix. I think the newer version of the frame has proper clearance for 38mm tires, but I could only get 35mm tires on the 2014 version (after trying 43mm (they fit) and 38mm tires). You want 2-3mm per side.
If you’re using the stock Bontrager tires, ditch those. Get Gravel King SK, Schwalbe G-One, Conti Terra Speed or similar tires. Run them tubeless at about 35-40psi. Tires make a big difference in speed. Do NOT run tubed tires of that size at 40psi.
On the rest of the bike, my ride came with some stout AL bars and a carbon covered AL seat post. When using the bike in road-mode, the ride was BRUTAL. A German magazine ROADBIKE.DE tests frame, and it was the 2nd vertically stiffest bike they had on the website, only losing to an AL aero bike, the Allez Sprint. If you’re using cushy tires, this won’t make a much of a difference, but a flexy one will help with the big hits.
In road mode, changing the seatpost and bars to flexy carbon ones does a world of good. I used the Specialized Z shaped post, but Im using the Fizik R1 post on my Emonda ALR now, which seem good too and are cheaper.
On the bars, pretty much anything is better than the stiff stock ones. Comfy bars can be AL or Carbon. I’m a big fan of aero bars because of the flat top surfaces. AL bars are typically cheap enough to go ahead and try one. I had a carbon 3T Ergonova bars on the Crockett, but I put Easton EC70 Aero and FSA k-wing on my newer bikes; both are more comfortable, aeroer, and fancier than the 3T and stock Bontrager. Bar tape does NOT makes up for bar flex in my experience. There are plenty of reasonably priced AL flexy bars on the market, be sure to get ones with extended drops that flare outward 5+deg. Getting the right length stem is also a huge win.
If you’re prepping the bike for a full gravel assault, my Crockett had issues with shifting because sand got into the frame cable routing ports. What I’ve done on my new soft-roader, my Checkpoint, is run cable housing bow to stern to reduce the number of places sand can enter.
You’re also giving up water bottle mounting locations on your Crockett, so you might want to check to see how far water stops are apart. I know from riding Cedar Springs, MI to Muskegon in the summer that water stops can get limited. I’d recommend a half frame bag and camelback for stuff. If you go frame bag, get one like the Apidura racing frame bag, so you can access your water bottles. I think Trek, Topeak, and Shimano Pro all have compact frame bags and top tube bags with some structure for reasonable prices now.