Does mechanical shifting works fine with internal routing?

Considering getting a new chinese frameset, not sure how well mechanical shifting works with this sort of routing, and how well it works with internal routing in general, what is your thoughs on it?

I know this is a copy of aeroad, I am still not sure if mechanical would work fine without holes in the frame as on the cheap model

I have a chinese frameset with internal routing and the shifting works great. I also have mechanical brakes with Jagwire Keb-SL housings and have no problem with braking.

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Do your have your cables routed through integrated cockpit and steerer? This is what worries me the most

Yes. there is quite tight angle when cables goes to the headset.

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I don’t have experience with this. However, do remember that you have to replace your cables every so often. Yearly for a lot of people. Internal routing like this is harder to replace the cables and housing. Plus that tight bend puts a lot of stress on the cable. It may work fine when it’s new. How well will it work in the middle or towards the end of the replacement cycle?

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What @Weiwentg said. There’s a reason mainstream bike manufacturers say their fully internal routed frames aren’t compatible with mechanical shifting:

  • Tight bends will put a lot of stress on cable wire, which will impact shifting and could cause the cable to fail
  • Mechanical cables need to be replaced on a regular basis as they stretch / if they get dirt / grit in them. Replacing cables on a fully internal routed bike frame will be costly and time consuming

Lastly on the frame you are looking at: are the holes in the frame large enough for fully housed mechanical cables?

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Personally I don’t love fully integrated routing in any setting, but would never ever consider it for mechanical shifting. Tight bends and the unbelievable hassle of replacing cables/housings makes this a total no-go for me.

I also find the difference in headache between a well- vs. poorly-engineered integrated cable solution can be massive, and would be a bit skeptical of these open mold frames in this regard. Are spacers and stem proprietary? Are spacers split, or do you have to disconnect all cabling to add/remove spacers? I’d want, at a minimum, a clear exploded view diagram of the routing, not just a picture of the frame with some lines haphazardly drawn over it.

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Disc mechanical? Which are you using?

They actually break. the “stretch” happens after the first couple hours of riding then they are good to go until the head breaks off.

ZTTO BR-05, and Hayes CX Comp in the past.