My Di2 rear derailleur stopped working properly. It shifts down without any problem, but once at the smallest cogs it only goes up one gear and then makes a noise like “tac tac tac”.
When resetting the derailleur by pressing on the button of the junction box the same happens.
The guy I usually take my bike to repair says he always recommends to change the part with this problem.
However, for me if the derailleur is capable of shifting up one gear it should mean it is not mechanically broken.
Does any one have any suggestion?
Thanks!
This… the ticking sound it makes means that it cannot move into the gear.
Usually this means that it’s blocked (limits set incorrectly, chain too short, etc.), but if the system has been working fine so far, then it usually means the RD has to be replaced.
If you take the wheel off and you ‘help’ It by gently pushing it in the right direction it’ll probably shift, but obviously that isn’t a real solution
yep same here. R8050 cooked. for months it was kinda ok then after about an hour of riding it would only shift up to the middle cog and go no further. next ride it was ok. gradually got worse.
it’s perhaps worth saving the hanger bracket bit and the cage as spares.
i got a replacement from amazon.it which was bizarrely much cheaper.
Not a chain length problem, not a limit screw problem, not a cleanliness/lube problem, not an indexing problem - actually there was zero adjustment in the e-tube app on the position it was super-true and undamaged on the outside. Just cooked on the inside! GBp250 ouch (GS cage)
Anyone have any more experience with this? I’m going onto my fourth grx di2 11 speed rear derailleur and am starting to lose my mind. I barely get 1000 miles out of each.
Anyone? I’ve got a pile of derailleurs that don’t work and really bummed out. Is the servo dead? or is there something putting resistance on it?
I refuse to buy another, but wondering if there is any chance that battery is fried? Diagnostics look fine. Although I cant check since they don’t do E-tube on mac OS, and I dont have the wifi dongle.
Check/clean/service the clutch mechanism. 1k miles is a really low amount but every 11 spd Shimano clutch derailleur eventually exhibited an issue shifting to easier gears.
Funny enough, I just found this as a potential issue. Which would be insane if I spent all that money for a dirty clutch, something shimano never recommended. One of them didnt work even with the clutch off, but maybe a separate issue. Seems like they dont have any extra capacity in these servo motors.
Thanks! The bike has done some muddy CX races in those thousand miles.
I got the exact same issue on my GRX815 Di2, they only hold 1500KM. Its been already 3 of them that I changed, I am quite tired of it. If by any chance you find a solution pls keep me update.. thanks
cleaning the clutch has seemed to have helped. I am not convinced its the only issue though. I want to just go di2 mechanical at this point, but havent wanted to spend the money yet. I think its basically underpowered somewhere in the system, maybe by design but if so, yikes…
I did a few winter riders this year where a bit of water/slush froze on my rear derailleur, rendering it entirely useless. It would have been really easy to push through with a mechanical rear derailleur.
I don’t ride as much as I used to and when I get out and my bike is made useless by a stupid issue it really bums me out.
wow guys! same here. my 8050 rd di2 lasted 3 years, and made the tac tac tac noise. i disassembled it as some youtube videos show, there were the 2 bolts holding the motor on the housing loose and worm drive started to sllip. tried it to fix without luck because I was unable to center with precision the lever which pushes the derailleurarm with the axle so my derailleur was working correctly but unable to put higher 3-4 gears.
so I ended buying the GRX815 Di2, because rd-8050 ultegra was not available on any online or physical seller, only used ebay options. 220€ brand new, but hey at least i didnt have to replace the whole groupset for newer 12v options making me spend a couple grand
the new damn grx di2 lasted only 2 months, under 2000km. same symptoms, while on a bike vacation which made me spend 200€ on a rental bike. no single scratch, crash, hit, no single one shifting under load making the chain “creak”. just wanted to kill shimano ceo at that point
no repair kit or parts available, di2 housing is designed to NOT be serviced or repaired while it could easily be done, no complete 11s ultegra derailleur available, poor engeenering (myy sister’s sram force lasted 6 years just a battery problem and some shifter battery cell replacing, chain noiser than shimano, but no damn bad engineering).
i’ll get a 2nd hand mechanical ultegra but i am officially a shimano HATER. i am not even asking for a warranty, i dont want it. your product sucks
shimano = the toyota of bikes. used to be a reputable company with affordable reliable products and now just builds expensive unreliable mechanical trash.hope chinese industry puts you where you deserve very soon
Did you check your B limit screw? My 8050 rear mech was binding on occasion and thought it was on the way out. Turns out my B screw had backed out a touch. Got the gap back correct and maybe I can get another 9000 miles out of it.
Hmm. Short thread but wow! A lot of hate. I wonder if its mostly a 11s issue or more than that. Not a sram fan, but it always amazes me how users/lovers tend to be so forgiving and consider issues as minor things. Some even find fixes like aluminum foil for a failing battery contact as a “well that kept me going” kinda thing. Mechanical for me.
