I’m similar, in that waxing isn’t all its cracked up to be. My take as follows.
Winner is wax: keeps the chain clean. No black chain oil marks on hands, clothes, car surfaces, etc.
Winner is drip wax: quick and easy to apply. I brush the chain free of any accumulated dust and wipe with a rag. Then apply drip wax. Takes minutes.
Winner is wax: easy to clean the bikes. Makes cleaning bikes a single step process with water for everything, vs a 2-step process when using oil based lubes - 1 step to clean the drivetrain, another step to clean the bike.
Winner is oil: lasts longer. IME, wax lube does not last long when riding at high chain angles - meaning chain in big cassette cog. The sliding motion of the plates on the pins scrapes the wax away from where it needs to be and the chain gets noisy. I’ve noticed this on MTB and gravel bikes. I live in Colorado, so I spend a lot of time riding hills. When I shift into middle cassette, the chain quietness down. This cause is speculation on my part - but the results are clear, wax does not last long, especially on my MTB Eagle drivetrain if I spend a lot of time in 42 and 50 cogs.
Example: I’ve ridden Leadville 2x with oil based lubes, and did not need to relube mid ride. Last year I rode Aspen 50 on a freshly waxed chain and needed to relube mid ride.
Tie: drivetrain longevity. I keep my chains clean whether using wax or oil, and I think a dirty contaminated chain is the biggest driver of chain and drivetrain wear. Since I am diligent about keeping a clean drivetrain, I haven’t noticed a difference.
No opinion: watts saved. I can’t measure this.
All in, I’ve switched to Squirt drip lube, as immersive wax is too time consuming given how frequently I’d need to do it (1-2x per week).
I relube after every ride, and apply the Squirt liberally. Sometimes on a long ride, I relube mid ride with Squirt.
Silca drip lube is too thin a consistency, and does not last as long as an application of Squirt. Although with a brand new chain, I’d probably use Silca for the first few weeks, as it penetrates the pins/links better than Squirt.
Waxing newbie Q - Why would a waxed chain be getting black? It’s not oily like a lubed chain, but it’s kind of black and gunky… not just dust. I started with a pre-waxed chain and a completely clean drivetrain (removed cassette and cleaned cog by cog along with pulley/jockey wheels and chainrings). Should I just rinse with boiling water and wax or something else?
I think DaveWh was comparing 1 immersion waxing (IE Gulf Wax, MSW) 2 drip wax (IE Squirt, Secret Lube) 3 drip oil (IE Rock and Roll Gold) and he was rating which is the best for different criteria
I didn’t particularity like Squirt
I don’t generally ride in the wet or mud - immersion waxing is my 100% go to - I don’t see ever going back. However if you ride in an environment that is frequently wet/muddy/sandy I can totally see where wax isn’t the end all be all for everyone.
Completely this. I have 4 chains I rotate. I just like to do them in batches. I don’t keep track of mileage. I just put on a new chain at the end of the week.
The only thing I don’t like about waxing is cleaning up all the wax flakes by my trainer constantly.
My wife had a bunch of basic paraffin unscented taper candles from TJ Maxx that sat on a shelf for like 15 years and never got used.
I’ve been waxing for at least 3 years on that stash, 15000+ miles and haven’t even thought about replacing a chain or cassette. Can’t even measure any stretch wear among my 3 chains I rotate.
I did the initial clean thoroughly - but I don’t bother for rewax. Just drop it in, swirl a few times, give it a couple mins and pull it out. After maybe 15-20 chain dips, if it’s not as white when dry, chuck the wax and get another candle. A little grit and sand will settle to the bottom of the pot that I wipe out.
I’m finally running out of candles and may actually have to buy some wax…
On the podcast, they really missed this #1 reason to wax. Your drivetrain becomes immortal. The studies looking at this are incredible. And that is worth huge time and $$$ in a scarce market. Clean to touch quiet chains and free watts are a nice bonus!
I’ve been using tea lights from who knows where with some graphite and Teflon powder for the past 7+ years, maybe 20 bucks invested with a pot from good will, had a hot plate already. Threw a half dozen in before my last session a month ago.
I was contemplating trying the silca wax and a flooded basement 2 weeks ago might have forced my hand, not sure I want to try and plug the hot plate in.
I saw this unfortunate news over at the WW forum. Steven John Leffanue (Oz Cycle YT Channel) has posted several videos about waxing on YT I’m sure many of us have watched or used as a basis to get into waxing.
I watched some of his videos when I was just getting into waxing but really got most of my info from MSW. Haven’t watched anything of his in years though.
I got a connex link (steel) for my 10 spd shimano drivetrain, for endless capacity to take the chain off for cleaning. On the 11t sprocket it skips. Mine came with a very large outter plate, I don’t know if that is normal, but I am guessing that was the cause of the problem. I put sram link that came with the chain and no problems.
Thank you!
I am embarrassed to say, that is very likely what happened. Will give it a try next time I switch chains, which is very soon.
Edit: but then on mine the “10” engraving is upside down! No wonder I got it wrong …
Still, I too would very much like a 12spd version for the mtb.
