Does anybody use a thin grate at the bottom of the crock pot to keep the chain out of the black stuff that accumulates at the bottom of the wax?
Spinning the chain on a stand is no substitute for putting some actual power through the drive-train. A couple rotations is all, then take it out. Any roughness should even out in a few hundred feet of travel.
This - I see the same thing. Clunky on stand, and beautiful by the time I get down my 1/4 mile driveway with a couple 5-10 foot hills that put some light load on it to fully break it in.
What temp does the wax need to be?
I go with high on my crockpot
I heard 140 from silica
If im applying at say 180 is the higher temp allowing me to get enough on?
I have to rewax after 70miles and a few puddles on a ride kinda sucks
FWIW the Zen Master’s guide to chain waxing from zero friction cycling says - in bold - to use the low setting on the crock pot… but MSW’s instructions specifically say “high”. So… yeah. 
But MSW says 200F for temp.
I use a slow cooker on low. If you’re finding that you have to rewax so often it’s likely that your chain still contains grease/oil in and on it.
I am on 596km (370 miles) on my chain right now. It doesn’t need to be re-waxed yet but I will re-wax it anyway. This is a combination of indoor riding and outdoor riding in humid conditions.
My chain goes into a professional ultra sonic machine and no lube used in 18months. All chain related items are also brushed clean. Same chains have been cleaned 7 times a piece, I’m onto 2nd set of quick links. On average I get 120-150 miles per chain. Just let set of waxing seems to be short lived making me think my wax temp is too high.
Mine does that also after a wet ride. I did two rides in the rain last week and both bikes got new chains
Interesting. What are chemicals or cleaning agents were you using in the ultra sonic cleaner?
I’ll have to ask the shop, its a http://www.renegadepartswashers.com/
I don’t think wax will prevent rust. My experience with wet cx is I always have to take the chain off when I get home, wipe it dry with a papertowel, and rest it somewhere warmish to dry. I’ve had chains rust a bit if I don’t. In the summer, I don’t tend to have rust issues – I think because I don’t generally ride in crappy weather, but in the off chance I get rained on anyway it dries while I’m riding on it (assuming the rain stopped). Popping the chain off is a cinch with the connex link.
I’ve pulled mine and dropped it in a jar of mineral spirits for the drive home from the occasional wet TT…that seemed to work though not exactly the most convenient thing in the world.
Also in the UK If it happens to rain while I am out I will sparingly spray the chain over with a water dispersing spray and wipe the chain over with a cloth to remove the excess.
Managed to get some outdoor riding in during a rare dry spell in England, the chain has run smooth as silk and I am happy as can be with the MSW, I think I will likely try normal paraffin wax after the MSW needs throwing away.
Question: between applications of MSW shall I just wipe the chain with a clean rag and re wax in the slow cooker? or should I add chain to boiling water then dry before re waxing?
I am reading conflicting information about the reapplication process and just want to go with the best option.
You can do both. The one downside of just dumping the chain without boiling water is that your wax will probably go black faster, on the other hand your chain might rust a little bit if you went with boiling water.
I personally go boiling water.
I have been waxing for a few weeks now and so far so good. I have a few issues with the wax flakes on the trainer and still have no clue about when it’s time to rewax. But I’ll learn…
One thing puzzles me though: I had thought that the waxed chain makes a perfectly clean drivetrain. My road rides are 100% dry, but still do I get a dirty rag after wiping the chain post ride. It seems that it’s small metal flakes. The chain I noticed it the most on is a used KMC EL Silver that is close to 0.5 wear. I disregarded the advice to start waxing with a new chain. I have another used Shimano 105 chain that shows less wear still, but it also sheds some metal. Small blackish dust.
I wonder whether this is the normal wear of a chain that is mixing with road dust and making up the black gunk in an oiled chain. Not as clearly visible as on a waxed chain.
I’ll shortly put on a new chain as part of a rotation and I’ll see how it looks there. Maybe it’s time to retire the KMC chain at least.
Can anybody please share some experience? Are your chains shedding some metal dust as well?
KMC chains don’t take wax well according to Zero Friction Cycling, something about the coating they use. My own experience mirrored this. Are the chains fully stripped before waxing them? If not you maybe you are getting some of the residual grease left in the rollers mixing with dirt and that can get kind of gunky?