Bike Fitters - Question on Cleat Lateral Adjustment - MTB v. Road Cleats?

Equipment
1

For all of those fitters out there…

I think I’ve read in the past that MTB (SPD) cleats have a bit more overall lateral adjustment as compared to Road (SPD-SL) cleats. Is this accurate, and have any of you measured this accurately enough to put a number on the difference? I think that articles like THIS have led me to this conclusion, with the discussion of the SPD-SL’s rotational adjustment “eating up the sideways adjustment.”

For context, I’m trying to figure out how to make sure my bikes (Gravel and Raod) are set up as closely to one another as possible. I have my cleats set up with maximum stance width on both bikes, so I am looking to see if I need some washers on the Road pedals to approximate the same overall stance width as compared to my MTB pedals with a comparable axle length.

Thanks,!

2

Regardless of the adjustment range delta that may/may not exist between the cleat systems, that won’t really handle your question.

  • Actual Q-Factor (horizontal space between each crank surface where the pedals stop) can vary between manufactures and even cranks within a manufacture.
  • Then add in the fact that even the same brand of shoes (in road/MTB style) could have the cleat mount screws in a different lateral spot relative to where your foot lands.
  • Long story short, specs won’t answer your question.

If you really want to nail functional stance with, it will take some careful measurement of both bikes with pedals installed to start, then add in an initial cleat install and more measurements with you on the bike clipped in. That is where my engineer brain goes a least because if you are aiming for mm accuracy, I don’t think you will get that from specs.

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Thanks, @mcneese.chad!!

Believe it or not, I have actually removed as many variables as possible, with the exception of manufacturing tolerances – literally the same crank arm model on each bike (only with different spiders/rings), same Lake shoe model/range/sole (CX238 Wide for Road, MX238 Wide for Gravel). Therefore, I am actually at a pretty good starting point to go to specifications and consider that as a comparison.

That being said, your point is well taken!

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Then at this point, you can pretty much lock it in. Possibly install shoes on both bikes (you not wearing them) and measure with either/both setups fully narrow or fully wide to have a “common” starting point. If you know one or the other is the actual stance width you want, just match the other with some wiggle in place via slightly loose cleat screws and shoe width measured.

And if one happens to be too narrow despite max width, you can then consider pedal washers to get the additional width.

5

Thanks again! In terms of a measuring point, perhaps set the bike up so that one of the shoes is contacting a vertical, uniform surface such as a wall or beam, and then measure from that surface to the outside of the other shoe at the center of the pedal spindle? Then, undertake the same procedure with the other bike, touching the same spot on the same wall, and compare the numbers?

Does this method make sense?

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Yup, sorry for not stating that, but you nailed my concept.

  • Bike with shoes installed, leaned perfectly vertical against a wall, pedals level, with the “rear” shoe position on the wall.
  • Such that the “front” shoe position is easier to measure using a carpenter square (if you want to ensure the measurement), to the outer shoe width and repeat as you mention for the 2nd bike.