BB, Chainring and Chain wear

If it wasn’t Pressfit I’d agree and swap it since it’s a 10-minute job but Pressfit means removal and fitting tools need to be purchased and my other bikes are English threaded so that’s a chunk of cash on tools on top of the parts.

When I do get a new one I’ll see if I can get a thread-together style one for Pressfit sizes so I can swap it out myself in the future.

Or swap to a threaded insert that eliminates the joys of owning a pressfit bike. I did that on one of my bikes. Got tired of the creaking and the glue the manufacturer said would ‘fit it all’, and didn’t.

But there are pressfit ‘kits’ that have all the drifts and such and make it so easy. At least you don’t have to worry about cross threading it. I swapped my BB in a Specialized Fatboy that creaked. Their ‘fix’ was using some kind of glue. The Wheels kit was easy to install, and still creak free. I don’t remember the price being too outrageous either. The tool to install it might be easily borrowed. (That’s what I did) AND you end up with a far better bottom bracket than the pressfit crap.

Since I’m in need of a new cassette after looking at messages and invoices and not seeing mention of a new one for well over 2years.

Boiled down to:

  • 11-30 105 £37.99
  • 11-30 Miche Primato £43.99
  • 12-30 Miche Primato £59.99
  • 11-30 Ultegra £54.99
  • 11-32 Sunrace rs3 £37.99

I rarely end up in the 11t cog so the 12-30 sounds good but not sure on shifting performance for non Shimano cassette, (although do have a Sunrace on the turbo). However, it is 20 quid more than a 105.

I’m pretty sure I don’t want to drop to a 32t bottom, but we all know that about never meeting a low gear you didn’t like when spannered and on the struggle bus.

Open to experience with all 3 brands and ratios! Hit me with your reviews! Also the 3 most expensive ones will have a fiver off total with a voucher I have.

parts seem to be on sale all over the place, worth the minimal extra cost for shimano (ultegra or even 105 is fine) imo. especially since you are getting a lot of life out of them.

I’d replace everything- 18000k is quite a bit, you got your $$ worth! If you put those rings up against a new set you’ll be amazed at how much they are worn. And, you’re going to think you have a new bike with those new drive-train components!

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If you are keeping your drivetrain reasonably clean and replacing chains before they get too stretched, you should be nowhere close to needing a cassette and certainly not new chainrings. The main thing that acellerates wear on these items is when a chain is too stretched and no longer spreading the force equally across the cogs. If it’s shifting fine and not “jumping” under load with a fresh chain, there is no reason to replace either of these. Many folks ride over 18k KM every year and they aren’t replacing cassettes and chainrings annually. It definitely depends on the conditions you ride in and how clean you keep things, but I’ve had chainrings on my road bike that lasted over 60k KM’s and cassettes last over 40k KM and I ride in all conditions (but I am pretty fanatical about keeping my drivetrain clean).

I love how shades of grey partial wear is (especially when there’s not a tool measure it), one side we have you getting many many more km out of rings and on the other side my 18000km is a good innings for them, and then there’s the new cassette every spring crowd!

Think I’ll get a chain only as cassette is brand new on turbo and slowly collect parts to spread the cost and do a spring refresh.

I’m not an engineer, but here goes. BB friction can be decomposed into the friction of the seals rolling against the races, and the friction from the bearings rolling on the races. The latter is proportional to that load on the bearings.

When you spin the bearings by hand, you’re putting a few watts into the crank. So the friction from the bearings themselves is not much, and you’re mainly seeing the friction attributable to the seals. So, if the BB spins slowly by hand, that’s not reflective of drag when you’re pedaling and you’re putting 150W or more into the crank.

Yes, square taper BBs spin much more freely than modern ones, but I believe the above is still true.

When you turn the cranks, can you feel roughness? If so, then maybe the BB needs to be replaced. That’s what I would look for. Or say you want a more lightly sealed ceramic BB. I believe you’re going to save less than 1W. Don’t let that stop you. But don’t do it because you think your current BB is worn out if it is not actually worn out.

Spring refresh is upon me! So new chainring time, currently on the compact stock 5800 rings and contemplating upgrading to Rotor aero rings.

Rotor comes to be ~£100 including chainring bolts (assuming there’s none in the parts box), stock is about £60. Both from a proper shop’s eBay outlet, bonus of not running latest and greatest kit! Other shops/brands are approx £150 (or £130 from Panda Podium). There’s also the random unknown eBay rings from China which also need bolts running around £40 - least attractive option. The extra stiffness of aero isn’t a factor as I’ve never broken 1000w! If I wanted to get spendy Alugear fullfil the shiny option as they look great.

I think for shiny kit factor, bit of weight saving Rotor looks good but I’ll let hive mind suggest things that didn’t occur to me!

I like my chainrings boring (ie - stock). I’ve played with aftermarket, funny shapes (oval, osy) and always come back to stock rings. Can others work OK? Yep. Are aftermarket rings going to work as reliably or last as long as OEM rings that were specifically designed as part of a drivetrain system? My experience says no.

Do a quick search on these. I’ve never used those rings personally, but there was a recent thread here talking about how flexy and prone to chain drops they are. Like many aftermarket components, it sounds like Alugear is focused on bling factor, but ignoring the engineering/testing required to make the product perform.

Rotor aero rings only look good with their aero spider imo, but then you’re buying the axle and crank arms. The new 12-11s rings shift really well. Think I’ve dropped a chain once this year and I typically run 52/34 or 54/36 which is not the recommended combinations.