I use Wahoo Kickr Core with TrainerRoad. When using TrainerRoad with a workout plan with ERG turned On, I often find that I can reach my target level and stay at my target level throughout the workout on all my planned workouts. However I also do this at a relatively low cadence around 65 to 75 reaching a maximum of 85 revolutions per minute sometimes along the way during my workout. Is it good to have such low cadence or should I be spinning it a lot more. I am asking this question because if I spin it faster at around 90-95 RPM, I find that I am riding my bike at a power level that is higher than the target for that workout interval
If your trainer is working correctly in ERG mode, it will adjust resistance to maintain the correct power irrespective of cadence. I can pedal at 65 or 115+ rpm on my trainer and it will adjust resistance to maintain set power. If I quickly increase or decrease cadence, power will go up or down for the few seconds it takes for the trainer to respond to the change in cadence and then return the correct power. Most fit and experienced cyclists gravitate to cadences between 85-95 rpm to be most efficient. This balances demands between cardiovascular and muscular strength. When I do FTP tests, I pedal between 90 and 95 rpm. In demanding group rides, I usually range between 85 and 100. That works for me. Others will have different optimum cadences.
It seem TR doesn’t stress cadence much but does give rough guidance in some workouts with instructions. Other training platforms (e.g. Systm) specify and display target and actual cadences during workouts.
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This
Cadence is different for everyone. I’m a masher not a spinner. I try to increase my cadence speed as I get older.
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I’ll add that generally, smart trainers can respond more quickly to power and cadences changes as well as better maintain set power if a low-ish gear is use. On a typical road bike, the usual recommendation is to use the small ring and cog in the middle of the cassette. This helps by keeping the rpm of the flywheel relatively low.
As noted, cadence is individual and variable.
That said, 65-75 is very low and your efficiency will likely increase if you begin to work at higher cadences (80+).
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I did 4 × 15 at 90% FTP today. Nailed all 4 intervals to within 1 watt in Resistance mode on Zwift.
I1 - 85rpm
I2 - 90rpm
I3 - 80rpm
I4 - 97rpm
I do like having that bit of flexibility. 97rpm was definitely pushing the envelope for my modest sweetspot power, though. 
Same as others but I’ll reiterate:
If ERG is working correctly you cadence doesn’t matter. At a higher cadence the trainer will just drop the resistance an appropriate amount to create the same power output. It might overshoot for a handful of seconds as it adjusts though.
Cadence is pretty individual but 65 is pretty low, 75 is on the low end of ‘normal’. It’s hard to tease out fitness vs experience but I also notice that generally at higher power outputs you will spin at a higher cadence. At some point the force to put out say 300+W at 65 cadence is just unsustainable but maybe 200W isn’t too high. For myself, I will ride endurance pace (~200W) at like 85-90rpm, threshold (~330W) at 95-98, and above threshold at 105-115.
But when I started out all those cadences were definitely lower, especially the higher end or else I would start bouncing. But i practiced higher cadences and got noticeably better and more controlled riding higher.
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Couple questions:
- What gearing are you using in ERG mode (front & rear chainring size)?
- What is your FTP?
Reason for those questions is that for some combos above, it may lead to difficulty of the trainer to hit the prescribed power target.
- Ex: Person with 150w FTP using max road gearing (50x11) may be spinning the trainer axle fast enough that the resistance unit could struggle to get a low enough value for some loads. Solution in this case is to drop gearing a bit, which effectively decreases the minimum wattage (Wattage Floor) for the trainer.
On the cadence question, I find it best to consider what you aim to run for a range in your outside cycling and focus on matching that within reason on the trainer.
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Thanks for your quick and detailed response. Appreciated it VERY much!!!
Yesterday when doing my Endurance Workout (TR/Kickr Core), I followed your advice and was able to (consistently) maintain a cadence of 90 rpm even when I was pedaling at a low TR workout interval target of 70 Watts. I did this by shifting into a lower gear. So, I was able to switch between 70 W and 110 W by simply pedaling at a higher cadence between 90 and 94 rpm respectively.
Follow-up question - If I wish to ride on a relatively flat road and pick up speed at 18 MPH, should I go into a higher gear OR should I spin faster? I am asking as many bikers say that I should spin faster. However, my concern is that I may get accustomed to lower gears (on flat roads) and then I may not have the option to shift to even lower gears if I I were to climb a steep hill (10-15 degrees gradient). Am wondering what is the optimal gear ratio when riding on a flat road at 18 mph. I can then make gear-adjustments based on the gradient (as and when required).
Thanks,
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- This answers the questions I posed above and proves your issue was a Wattage Floor, imposed by higher gearing and a low wattage target.
- Almost entirely your preference.
- That is impossible to answer. Even on a flat road, your size and aerodynamics can lead to different wattage demands, coupled with your own physiology that lead to a cadence (range) that is likely unique to you.
- Add in the potential that your bike gearing can impact the delta between gears at different steps in the cassette (like 11-28 vs 11-32 vs 11-34) that can also affect how big the “jump” is between gears. Less of an issue between those as you get from mid to the smaller cogs, but still a factor.
- Some people like to spin up their legs while others will shift. There is no “optimal” answer here. You have to experiment and find what you prefer. That said, I recommend that people cultivate a wide range of functional cadence in order to have a bigger “toolbox” to handle conditions at each end of the spectrum as you mention.
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Thanks once again!!! Appreciate the value added comment – “I recommend that people cultivate a wide range of functional cadence in order to have a bigger “toolbox” to handle conditions at each end of the spectrum as you mention.” This was exactly the focus of my question and the very reason I subscribed to TR, namely to develop a “wide-range” spectrum to handle “various situation”, to " hear what my body and legs" are saying when riding and (hopefully) expand beyond my current range limitations.
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Yup, and an aspect I didn’t mention (among the many factors) is fatigue. The “answer” to what you do in that situation may be different at the start of a ride vs what is “right” 3 hours later. Main point is that it variability should be recognized and even embraced. We are not machines as we might think sometimes, so an any answer comes with the “It depends…” qualifier more often than not.
In a way, “Optimal” is the ability to adapt to a wide range of conditions, so building your cadence skill set width and depth is what I would aim to do vs zero in on any particular cadence to situation with tight values.
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Additionally, how you up your power by changing your cadence or gearing will vary by situation…if you are are riding in a given gar, but looking to up your power as you hit the bottom of a slight rise, you may well keep your current gear and just add more force to the pedals vs. shifting.
If you are looking to close a gap to a wheel in front of you, you may opt to increase your cadence briefly in order to accelerate quickly.
On a flat road, it may be more efficient to change your gearing but keep you cadence constant.
“It depends” applies well and much of the answer will rely on your experiences as you begin to train and ride more. You’ll learn to instinctively judge the situation and employ the right options for the circumstances.
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Excellent point about – “if you are are riding in a given gar, but looking to up your power as you hit the bottom of a slight rise, you may well keep your current gear and just add more force to the pedals vs. shifting.”
This is EXACTLY what I realized yesterday that once I got to my optimal combination of Power X Cadence (to follow the interval’s target, say 70), then when I had to switch to taget of 110, I did not change my gears but simply increased cadence and when I got to steady-state Power X Cadence combination for theis interval (Power = 110), I was able to ease off on Cadence and rely on smooth spin/momentum to fine-tune Power X Cadence tradeoff so that it was a smoorth ride with appropriate tradeoff.
Please note: I am still in early-stage experimental phase and still learning and improving. I can reach/exceed my target FTP in VO2 workout drills. My question about Power X Cadence tradeoff was to ensure that I am doing/learning it the CORRECT way rather than reaching my interval 's power objective without following appropraite biking techniques … for afterall, the road to improvement and perfection is a LOOONG (bike) ride 
Thanks!!
My current FTP is 138, ERG Mode = On when using Wahoo Kickr Core (with TR).
When I first asked my question my gear ratio was 50/13. This was when I noted if I go to higher cadence (90 rpm) then I go way beyond workout interval’s target Power of 70.
Following advice from Saddlesaur, I reduced the gear ratio to 50/19 and I was able to keep cadence at ~ 90-93 even as I remained at target Power target of 70.
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Yup, that all makes sense and dropping to a lower gear is the solution.
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50/19 is better than 50/13 but you might find the trainer’s ERG mode regulation and responsiveness even better at a lower gear. In ERG mode, I typically run my small ring (34t) and the 19t cog.
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Wow! Did not know about this “little golden TR nugget” about using small ring@34x19 for better ERG mode regulation and responsiveness.
I am learning each day!!!
Thanks!!!
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If you do a lot of erg mode training, it’s best to use the small ring as not only is the flywheel speed slower, it’s cheaper to replace the inner ring rather than the outer one.
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I’d also echo others’ advice of using the small ring. 
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