I think this is an issue among other trainers, and normally I don’t care because I am generally on erg mode in the middle of the cassette, but I’ve been zwifting and using more of my cassette. I did a whole fresh setup of my rear mech today to make sure limits are good, but no dice. I have 8 speed with a spacer on the hammer, so it may be that It’s slightly off in comparison to my wheel. Not sure how deeply down the rabbit hole I really want to go, I might just suck it up and deal with the slightly off setup for a couple of weeks until I return to the friendly confines of erg mode. Lol
hate to bump my own thread, esp since the original didn’t really have much of a question! but was curious if any folks are successful in doing adjustments with their bike on the trainer. I unplug my trainer but it still requires some effort to get the flywheel going to do any mechanical adjustments. Thinking I’ll have to do this if I’m going to get the grinding to go away
When you say ‘Highest’ cog are you talking about the big easy inside ones or little harder outside ones?
If inside ones, make sure the rear deraileur isn’t hitting the Trainer.
It could also be adjustment, your wheel and the trainer are not going to be the same. You might need to adjust the rear deraileur slightly. Your bike store can give you some tips on how to tweak your cable adjuster.
The can could also need replacing.
The cassette could be loose. See if there is any movement in the cassette. You have even forgotten a spacer, make sure the cogs are evenly spaced.
I mean the hard outside ones. The only thing I haven’t done is adjusting the high limit while on the trainer (I did it with my wheel on the bike stand), so I’m suspecting that’s what it really is. Normally, this isn’t an issue because I run erg mode but lately I’ve been doing some zwift races and it’s annoying, although to my understanding it’s not really detrimental
I’m running a 7 speed on my V1 Hammer, and have the same issue on the smallest cog. However, I also have it on my 11 speed (put on the winter bike at the start of lockdown) so I assume it’s not spacer related.
I did notice more when I experimented with dropping “Trainer Difficulty” further than 50% (another debate I really don’t want to get in) - as in it wasn’t just the smallest on the block, so I assume it’s speed/ power related. I’m only really down that low on descents, so never really looked into further and have just lived with it!
I’ll have to mess with the difficulty level, I’ve been at 40%. In addition to the noise, it’s also a compromise in cadence, on one gear I’m near 100 and in the other (I think maybe 14t?) I’m getting noise and cadence feels a lot slower relatively speaking in upper 80s-low 90s. But that’s what I get for sticking with 8 speed lol. Trying my best not to get too deeply down this rabbit hole because I’ll be back to SSB in a couple of weeks!
Yeah, well that was my thinking. Impacts at most once a week if I swap it for my outdoor ride, and even then only really steep downhills (for me anyway).
Just updating myself, I’m throwing in the towel with this lol
So I disconnected the RD cable today, messed with moving the high limit a little more outboard to account for the spacer on the 11spd hub, got the indexing right on the workstand, still grinding at the 15, 13, and 11t. I only have this week left of my zwift racing protocol before I go back to keeping it on the same cog for ERG mode. But maybe it’s the universe telling me to go 11 speed lol