Aerobike for Climbing?

@oldandfast

What bike did you get, I’m curious!

Where’s the pics??

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I will have to get some!

The bike ended up at 16.2lbs in a 1x configuration. I opted to go with a DA crankset instead of a light carbon one that made the weight difference I was predicting.

I can say that it is an absolute amazing machine and I am so happy I made the decision to build it!

Here was my final build sheet and cost, everything was weighed on my scale (I had the crank and pedals already, everything else was new);

T1550 Build
Components Weight Price Descriptive Component
Frame 1014 $1,475.00 Winspace T1550 G2, 52
seatpost 181 Winsapce short zero offset
Fork 434 Winspace
Handlebars 354 Winspace Zero SL, 38/115
Front Axle 26 Winspace
Rear Axle 33 Winspace
Headset Bearings 71 Winspace
Comp Plug/Spacers 32 Winspace
20mm Spacers 32 Winspace
Seat Clamp 26 Winspace
Computer Mount 14 Winspace
Bottle Cages 15 Nextie NXTB03
Pedals 304 Favero Dual
wheelset 1266 $1,300.00 Custom NXT60ARS
SMP Saddle 175 $255.00 Carbon SMP Evo
Tires 608 $156.00 GP5000 - 30mm
Groupset 0 $1,355.12 Ultegra/Dura ace blend (No Crank)
Cassette 223 Dura Ace 11-30
F Rotor 119 Dura Ace - 160mm
R Rotor 102 Dura Ace - 140mm
Chain 151 Dura Ace
Crank (1x) 715 Dura Ace 170mm, 1x (Pass quest 52T)
Shifters 404 Ultegra
Brake Caliper 335 Ultegra
RD 260 Ultegra
FD 0 NA
Wires 11 Shimano
Battery 51 Shimano
T47 104 $200.00 BBInfinit
Misc
Handlebar tape 113
Foam Cable Cover 21
Tubless Fluid 120
Rim Tape 20
Valve Stems 15
16.2lbs $4,741.12
7 Likes

Unbelievable. Component weight stated in grams, still manages to put overall weight in lbs.

Greetings from the other side of the Gulf of Mexico :wink:

ps I think you could have saved 85g if you went for the DA Shifter/Caliper over Ultegra and the money saved by buying off brand cassette and rotors for pretty much the same weight. But thank you, this is very insightful, and kind of proves that no, aero bikes are not that easy to get down to 6.8kg quite yet. I do think in some years they will have gotten components weight down enough at cheaper price points that we will get there, but 500g off is quite a bit. As in, yes, it’s ‘nothing’, but in terms of trying to shave off that much weight, it’s a lot. Especially since e.g., those wheels are light af and that’s usually where you could save the most if you buy a complete bike and want to shave off weight.

2 Likes

Beautiful!

And those wheels are insane. 1’355g for 60/66!!!

Even the new Farsports EVOs6 are 1’290 for 58/58. Although the Farsports in 50/50 are only 1’190 while the Streem Allround Vonoa are 49/54 so more than 8/8 shallower, but are only 50g lighter, with 1’305. Interesting Farsports lose so much more on shallower rim than Newmen.

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@teddygram worked on getting that spec for a long time!

Well it’s pretty “easy” insofar as you can buy a stock high end aerobike like the S-works SL8, Supersix Evo Lab71, Aeroad CFR, etc all in the range of 6.7-7.0kg with aero wheels and then swap in a few exotic parts to bring the weight down further if necessary.

It is however definitely not cheap!

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Yea, affordable maybe better than easy.

I’ve been struggling with what exactly defines an “aero” bike. After weeks of reading aero data, here’s where my mind landed:

To me, bikes like the S5, Foil, Systemsix, Aeroad, G7 Madone, and T1550 instantly scream “aero bike.” They just look the part and seem like stiff, ready-to-roll machines.

On the other hand, when I look at bikes like the SL8, Supersix, and G8 Madone, I think, “Well, maybe it’s an aero bike?”

I know the data shows they’re close in testing, but then you get into all the variables like handlebars and wheels, and it becomes a marketing mess. The sad reality is that they’re probably all so close in performance that it doesn’t make much difference for us.

I can say that the T1550 is an absolute rocket for me—probably the best and fastest bike I’ve ever had (and I’ve had S-Works Tarmacs, Madones, etc.). The caveat is that I’ve been racing for a long time, and this bike is exactly what I want, spec’d how I want, with the geometry I need. It’s just right!

Anyway, as requested, here are some photos!

FYI - I race for a team that gets very good prices on Trek’s. This bike was not only still cheaper but built with what “I” wanted.

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Thank you for the kind compliments. I want to mention that I built the bike this way because, at 200 lbs, I need components that will 1) stop effectively and 2) not break, given my weight and relatively high peak power.

I know I can make it lighter. For instance, switching to an Elilee crank combo alone would save 235g (0.5 lbs) or more. Additionally, using lighter bars (this bike is ACR standard) like the Vision METRON 5D ACR EVO, along with lighter rotors, DA RD, shifters, etc., would further reduce the weight.

I am spiraling now, I built something that will stop, be as break resistance as we can, and is very light for an incredible value! The goal was met to achieve 99% of IMO the best you can buy at a 1/3 of the price.

The biggest shock of the entire social experiment was this frame is a pig… its heavy… don’t buy white (raw is about 180-190g less)! However, it is insanely stiff and accelerates very well!

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