What bike did you get, I’m curious!
Where’s the pics??
I will have to get some!
The bike ended up at 16.2lbs in a 1x configuration. I opted to go with a DA crankset instead of a light carbon one that made the weight difference I was predicting.
I can say that it is an absolute amazing machine and I am so happy I made the decision to build it!
Here was my final build sheet and cost, everything was weighed on my scale (I had the crank and pedals already, everything else was new);
T1550 Build | |||
---|---|---|---|
Components | Weight | Price | Descriptive Component |
Frame | 1014 | $1,475.00 | Winspace T1550 G2, 52 |
seatpost | 181 | Winsapce short zero offset | |
Fork | 434 | Winspace | |
Handlebars | 354 | Winspace Zero SL, 38/115 | |
Front Axle | 26 | Winspace | |
Rear Axle | 33 | Winspace | |
Headset Bearings | 71 | Winspace | |
Comp Plug/Spacers | 32 | Winspace | |
20mm Spacers | 32 | Winspace | |
Seat Clamp | 26 | Winspace | |
Computer Mount | 14 | Winspace | |
Bottle Cages | 15 | Nextie NXTB03 | |
Pedals | 304 | Favero Dual | |
wheelset | 1266 | $1,300.00 | Custom NXT60ARS |
SMP Saddle | 175 | $255.00 | Carbon SMP Evo |
Tires | 608 | $156.00 | GP5000 - 30mm |
Groupset | 0 | $1,355.12 | Ultegra/Dura ace blend (No Crank) |
Cassette | 223 | Dura Ace 11-30 | |
F Rotor | 119 | Dura Ace - 160mm | |
R Rotor | 102 | Dura Ace - 140mm | |
Chain | 151 | Dura Ace | |
Crank (1x) | 715 | Dura Ace 170mm, 1x (Pass quest 52T) | |
Shifters | 404 | Ultegra | |
Brake Caliper | 335 | Ultegra | |
RD | 260 | Ultegra | |
FD | 0 | NA | |
Wires | 11 | Shimano | |
Battery | 51 | Shimano | |
T47 | 104 | $200.00 | BBInfinit |
Misc | |||
Handlebar tape | 113 | ||
Foam Cable Cover | 21 | ||
Tubless Fluid | 120 | ||
Rim Tape | 20 | ||
Valve Stems | 15 | ||
16.2lbs | $4,741.12 |
Unbelievable. Component weight stated in grams, still manages to put overall weight in lbs.
Greetings from the other side of the Gulf of Mexico
ps I think you could have saved 85g if you went for the DA Shifter/Caliper over Ultegra and the money saved by buying off brand cassette and rotors for pretty much the same weight. But thank you, this is very insightful, and kind of proves that no, aero bikes are not that easy to get down to 6.8kg quite yet. I do think in some years they will have gotten components weight down enough at cheaper price points that we will get there, but 500g off is quite a bit. As in, yes, it’s ‘nothing’, but in terms of trying to shave off that much weight, it’s a lot. Especially since e.g., those wheels are light af and that’s usually where you could save the most if you buy a complete bike and want to shave off weight.
Beautiful!
And those wheels are insane. 1’355g for 60/66!!!
Even the new Farsports EVOs6 are 1’290 for 58/58. Although the Farsports in 50/50 are only 1’190 while the Streem Allround Vonoa are 49/54 so more than 8/8 shallower, but are only 50g lighter, with 1’305. Interesting Farsports lose so much more on shallower rim than Newmen.
@teddygram worked on getting that spec for a long time!
Well it’s pretty “easy” insofar as you can buy a stock high end aerobike like the S-works SL8, Supersix Evo Lab71, Aeroad CFR, etc all in the range of 6.7-7.0kg with aero wheels and then swap in a few exotic parts to bring the weight down further if necessary.
It is however definitely not cheap!
Yea, affordable maybe better than easy.
I’ve been struggling with what exactly defines an “aero” bike. After weeks of reading aero data, here’s where my mind landed:
To me, bikes like the S5, Foil, Systemsix, Aeroad, G7 Madone, and T1550 instantly scream “aero bike.” They just look the part and seem like stiff, ready-to-roll machines.
On the other hand, when I look at bikes like the SL8, Supersix, and G8 Madone, I think, “Well, maybe it’s an aero bike?”
I know the data shows they’re close in testing, but then you get into all the variables like handlebars and wheels, and it becomes a marketing mess. The sad reality is that they’re probably all so close in performance that it doesn’t make much difference for us.
I can say that the T1550 is an absolute rocket for me—probably the best and fastest bike I’ve ever had (and I’ve had S-Works Tarmacs, Madones, etc.). The caveat is that I’ve been racing for a long time, and this bike is exactly what I want, spec’d how I want, with the geometry I need. It’s just right!
Anyway, as requested, here are some photos!
FYI - I race for a team that gets very good prices on Trek’s. This bike was not only still cheaper but built with what “I” wanted.
Thank you for the kind compliments. I want to mention that I built the bike this way because, at 200 lbs, I need components that will 1) stop effectively and 2) not break, given my weight and relatively high peak power.
I know I can make it lighter. For instance, switching to an Elilee crank combo alone would save 235g (0.5 lbs) or more. Additionally, using lighter bars (this bike is ACR standard) like the Vision METRON 5D ACR EVO, along with lighter rotors, DA RD, shifters, etc., would further reduce the weight.
I am spiraling now, I built something that will stop, be as break resistance as we can, and is very light for an incredible value! The goal was met to achieve 99% of IMO the best you can buy at a 1/3 of the price.
The biggest shock of the entire social experiment was this frame is a pig… its heavy… don’t buy white (raw is about 180-190g less)! However, it is insanely stiff and accelerates very well!