Advice on indexing gears with di2 between bike and trainer or alternate rear wheel

My bike has di2 electronic shifting and is obviously indexed to suit the cassette on my usual rear wheel. When I train indoor on my Kickr 2 I use ERG mode, so shifting is not a problem. But if I want to use shifting on the Kickr it skips and clicks, presumably as a result of not being indexed. How do people usually address this issue? The same applies to using an alternate wheel outside. Anyone know if there a way of using presets with di2 for indexing cassettes or the Kickr and switching between them? Cheers.

Why don’t you just take note of the adjustment on your indexing when on your usual wheel (the number + or - on either side of zero).

Then put your bike on the kickr…reindex your gears (start on 5th cog etc…) and then take note of that indexing.

Then whenever you swap you just have to quickly microadjust to whichever setting is applicable?

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Adjusting Di2 is super easy if you don’t know how. I’ve shared this link dozens of times and people are always surprised to find they can do the adjustment themselves in just seconds: https://youtu.be/nBIXq82M_oU

That is a great videos. Also make sure in etube the ride setup is selected for your gearing.

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So despite my advice above I’ve always had a problem with my Di2 shifting. I’ve used the method in your video based off the instructional video GCN did. Its basically the same…start in the 5th cog…

But I find I have to adjust my di2 all the way to -14 and it never quite likes to shift from the 3rd cog to the 2nd. Think this could be an issue with cassette? I’ve never managed to get it shifting perfectly and its highly annoying.

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Yeah I’m a bit reluctant to start ‘messing’ with the adjustment cos it’s so sweet for my current wheel/cassette. But I’d love a reliable method to quickly tune it to an alternate wheel/cassette combo or the Kickr.

That’s odd. That’s when I admit I’m in over my head and take it to the LBS. Is it the front derailleur? The rear? The hanger? The cables? Once they figure it out, it’s easy to do at home again.

I’m sure the microadjustment will solve your issue. If you look and its currently at “-3” (just and example) then no matter what you do change all you have to do in order to return to where you are now is put it back at -3

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Watch the video. It’s easy. No tools required.

I would guess that a spacer (very thin) behind your cassettes would help. This would help to have them all in the same alignment. I hope it makes sense.

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Every time I have a shifting issue on my Kickr its because I don’t have the drop outs seated right so start there.

If you need to adjust just use the Di2 system and it only takes 10 seconds:

Put chain on 5th cog (from large cog)
Put Di2 into adjust mode
Adjust until it just starts to rub on the 4th cog (small button)
Then do 4 clicks back
Take out of adjust mode

If that does not work, something else besides basic indexing is going on with your hub or cassette (e.g. missing or wrong spacer)

If your bike dropouts are aligned properly when clamping down the skewer (on either the Kickr or with a wheel) then I’d suggest getting your rear derailleur hanger alignment checked. When those are not aligned it creates shifting issues.

Other possibility is if the wheel you use (for riding) is out of true. That can affect shifting even it is slightly out of true such that you don’t feel it riding (i.e. it’s not that out).

I’ve found for my bike that sees the trainer (direct drive Elite Direto) and the rear race wheel I put on it (my TT/Tri bike) they both seem to agree with each other and no adjustment is necessary to index the two. And for reference I do also have Di2. I always check the shifting when swapping between the two first to make sure everything is ok though.

Edit: Don’t count out a worn chain/cassette either as a possibility. I don’t know how much use your gear has at this point.

Like @MadTuna said. You can find cassette shims online so if you figure out what is the most outboard cassette and use that as your “zero point” then move the others out to meet it. A quick google found these 1mm shims. I’m sure if you looked harder you could find thinner ones (maybe even non bike specific ones).

I’ve never done this so I don’t know how far is too far to shim a cassette though. So maybe talk to your LBS about it.

Edit: From the source:
https://wheelsmfg.com/products/rear-drivetrain/rear-drivetrain-small-parts/fw-1-0.html

These are thinner but for bottom brackets. Though the inner diameter is 0.3mm smaller so maybe too small but OD is the same.
https://wheelsmfg.com/products/rear-drivetrain/rear-drivetrain-small-parts/bottom-bracket-spacer-0-7mm-black-alloy.html

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So the problem happens on both my wheel and my H1 trainer. So perhaps then its the hanger but when I inspect the hanger it definitely looks straight so I dont know

Bring it to a shop and have them check it with an alignment tool. Because eyeballing it doesn’t mean it’s straight.

I believe there is a hack way to check it without an alignment tool but you’d have to look it up and see.

By way of update, today I tried swapping out the 11-26 which comes on the Kickr for an Ultegra 11-30 I had lying around. My bike has a Dura-Ace 11-30 so I hoped they might be more in agreement. Turns out the shifting is improved but still not fully smooth up and down the range. I’m still not prepared to risk screwing up the sweet shifting on my bike by adjusting the indexing again. I’ll stick with ERG mode for now. Thanks for the advice everyone.