That’s a bit beefy, mine is a little over 23 pounds race ready. IMHO under 25lbs is a good spot for XC.
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Jumping into the weight discussion, I keep a spreadsheet that calculates $/g for me. I have my current build in one column vs a theoretical weight optimized bike in the other. For the low price of just $13,000 (Which would include a new S-Works frame) I could drop another 2 lbs.
Things like the XXSL vs X0 derailleur are a difference of 12g…hell even GX is only 50g heavier than XXSL. It’s fun to play around with but kind of sobering how expensive things get at the pointy ends.
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Got my eyes solid on this.
Yeah to get an OEM Scott Spark RC that’s sub 25lbs you have to spend $12,000.
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It’s a 400ish difference between XO and XXSL transmission. Guessing cranks and cassette make most of that?
Yep, 100g lighter for the cassette and ~200g for the crankset.
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It’s ~100g between GX and XXSL cassette, but only ~30g difference between XO and XXSL cassette. The crank is the vast majority of the weight difference between XO and XXSL. But yeah, the only real weight difference on any of the SRAM t-type stuff is in the cassette and crank.
I run GX everything except an XXSL powermeter crank. If $ were no object, I’d definitely go with the lighter XX cassette, but the rest of the groupset components are so close across levels that it’s basically irrelevant from a weight perspective.
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Haha…for realz!!
Funny - I did the same thing building up my XC bike. I got an incredible deal on a GX build XC bike and then worked to replace anything that rotated with a lighter alternative. Kept close track of $/g.
Built up a really light wheelset (described in another post here a few days ago). I went with the XO cassette as the cost upgrade for the additional few grams saved with XX1 didn’t make sense. Upgraded to carbon cranks as well.
Wheelset was definitely the most expensive upgrade, but also yielded the largest weight savings.
In the end, was able to shave off 3 lbs 2 oz with new wheels, cassette, and cranks. Also upgraded to a carbon handlebar, but that was more for comfort (albeit with a small weight savings).
Funny - in the triathlon world, the metric is Watts/$. How aero is the product you are buying and how much did it cost. Per the team at Specialized in the Win Tunnel, a Bic razor wins. It is only a buck or so, and shaving your legs can significantly increase your aerodynamics! 
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Been a while since I’ve weighed my epic evo 7, but last I recall it was sub 24 pounds. Started with comp build (new 2500’ish) and pulled parts from my previous gen spark (bought used for 3,800). Older Stans Valor carbon wheels is where I made a huge amount of weight savings.
Once I put on my new Fox rear shock, it could shave a bit of weight as I kept the stock shock on but it’s fully clapped out right now. Next would be figuring out if I want to keep my rotor InPower power crank (175 yeeesh) and swap to xx1 crank (dime a dozen on marketplace/craigslist in Colorado) and put my rally xc power pedals on from my gravel bike. Probably a wash on weight. Those these wheels have to be close to blowing up. Have been through the ringer!
Sold the spark for 2,000 with the old parts, so not too shabby all things considered. Thought about going Transmission but regular axs has been fine. There’s a guy I follow on marketplace that sells xx1 cassettes for like $280 shipped every winter. Oh I’ll probably upgrade the stock bar/stem setup at some point too. Bike is fun to rip.
I picked up a 2024/2025 Specialized Epic 8 Pro, as seen here:
I was hoping to pick up the non-Evo version, but couldn’t pass up the sale price. I’ve ridden it a few times and love it, but I’m curious what people would change/modify/watch out for winter deals on to make it more appropriate for XC racing here in Colorado, with an ultimate goal of doing Leadville.
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It’s going to be a solid bike as-is, but I’m personally a fan of suspension with 3 settings (open, pedal, lock). Not sure if the fox shock/fork on that bike can be adapted with different dampers for remote control, but that’s the one show stopper I’d have with that bike. But lots of people just run open suspension with no pedal/lockout and do great, so it’s preference. If you do consider adjustable suspension, flight attendant would also be an option (an awesome option in my opinion).
It’s a US Brand, but I’d be looking hard at an Ibis Ripley with lightweight parts (or at least an alternate lightweight XC Wheelset) and flight attendant on one of the bigger fork/shock combos? (e.g. 140 Lyrik FA, Super Deluxe Ultimate FA) With some simple changes the Ripley and Ripmo are the same frame so it scales up to Enduro if you need it to, the question is can it be enough “XC” or is the geo too much trail…
Ibis DW Link is pretty efficient for pedaling, even without the lockout though.
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There’s tales of a Ripley SL.
For a real one bike solution, I’d probably have 2 sets of wheels- a beefy set for chunky days and a light set for xc, and either 2 forks, or one that can be both 120 & 140 like a Pike or a regular 34, and I’d pick a bike that could accommodate both.
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Stating the obvious here - regardless of the bike choice, you’ll be making compromises.
I’m currently in this situation - I have one bike - a 2022 Trek Fuel Ex with 130mm rear travel and a 140mm fork. It’s my multipurpose bike that covers everything from Bikepacking, to XC, to double black Colorado and Utah trails.
It’s not as light as an Epic for XC. Not as capable as a Stumpjumper on rowdier terrain. But it works sufficiently well for everything.
Agree on this. I don’t have 2 sets of wheels however (maybe I should). Given this, the dilemma is tire choice. This year, I’ve been riding a Schwalbe Wicked Will on the rear and a Nobby Nic on the front. That’s a pretty decent do-it-all combo. If I was to ride something like Leadville I’d swap the tires out for something lighter. If I entered an enduro race, I’d put on burlier tires.
If I had to pick a single bike from among current models, I’d probably pick the Trek Top Fuel, and go with the longer travel option.
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I can change a fork in about the same amount of time as two wheels, as long as it doesn’t have headset routed cables.
if it were me, I’d ride such a bike in the trail configuration all of the time, then lighten it up the week before I race, getting in a ride or two to get used to things, but that just me.
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That’s in line with what I was thinking: possibly getting Flight Attendant. The current Fox 34 fork doesn’t have a lockout, but I can’t complain about it too much so far. Code brakes have been pretty nice so far as well, but I guess there’s room there?
I picked up an EVO Expert recently with same intention as you. Changes that are on tap: 120mm Fox 34 SL and reasonably fast tires, going to try Conti Dub/Tri (the stock tires feel like riding through peanut butter, at least for me).
Yeah, I’ve also thought about the 120mm Fox 34 SL. You’re talking about the new one, right? Tires are the other change: I’ve mainly been riding my bike up/down fire roads/trails, and the extra grip isn’t a bad thing.
You can get the Fox 34 SC from Jenson right now for 50% off. I think Fox discontinued this and moving to only Fox 32 SC or Fox 34 SL. I run the 34 SC and have no issues. It’s about two years old and was thinking of unloading it and going with the new SL
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