2024 XC Bike & Equipment Thread

Isnt this a new omega rim?

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The Alpha rim is using a traditional straight hook/lip wall design while the omega rim has a outward “flanged” wall. This rim design supposedly is stronger which they have been testing/verifying since '22 on downhill/super enduro wheelsets. They have now made the design into a low weight cross-country design newly released as “supreme edition” lineup of wheels. It in their opinion is the next generation of rim design in MTB’s.

Here is a picture of what the rim looks like


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If you have any other questions or potentially would like to order a wheelset, please send me a PM.

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Newer Nextie Omega NXT29VM36U rim
product-supreme-mtb-rim-NXT29VM36U-500x500

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Thank you, the image I used was just to show the two rims side by side, forgot it was not the updated rim profile. I updated it in my post.

I don’t know you saw it or not but they also have a “Supreme Alpha” rim that came out also
 it is :exploding_head: light

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Too light for me, and its 100kg weight limit. (Im 80kg±3kg depending on the season, then 11kg bike and added gear and clothes) I would not buy new wheels with 25 internal anymore. Running 2.4" tires.

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when is the official move to 35mm internal width as the standard for xc tires? Crazy to think that I bought a set of Nextie rims with 23mm internal width 8 years ago and was worried that they were “too wide.” Those said rims are now on my partner’s road bike with 32mm slicks and working a charm.

Meanwhile I’m over here on some older Stan’s Valor carbon hoops that are super light but probably 19-21 internal :skull:

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To what benefit? Wider rims are heavier and tires >=2.6“ work best on them, again heavier. Both not needed nor desired in XC. 25-30 is the sweetspot for XC up to Trail/Enduro imho.

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I have my Race Kings 2.2“ mounted to some old XRC 22.5mm IW. Perfect match as both are ‚old design philosophy‘

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21mm internal rims worked best 10 years ago, 30mm internal is working best now. What’s to say 35mm works even better in 5-10 years? The cycling industry enjoys to keep pushing out fresh new products, even if that’s a couple mm’s here and there.

The supreme alpha would be catered to those looking to the “ultra light” and “ultra fast” combinations I.E those planning on using 2.2” tires.

That weight limit was discussed up above also.

I agree though, the 30mm Alpha rim is more my style/comfort.

lower height as well only by 2mm but a move in the right direction, I like the new omega

35mm IW is nothing new, it’s been around for some years as well as 2.6“ and bigger tires. They are certainly the right choice for certain applications but I‘d argue not for XC where you have lots of little accelerations and not many instances where additional weight is a benefit to carry momentum. You‘d want a light rim and a light, supple, fast rolling tire appropriate for the course. Both the wider rim and wider tire carry more weight for little to no gain in the downhill and more weight for the uphill. That’s just physics and nothing that 5-10 years can change.

I‘d run 2.6“ Maxxis Assegais F/R on an E-MTB to shred downhills with ultimate traction but not on a light XC bike to carry more weight unnecessarily.

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Has anyone reduced their chain ring size?
Currently my Revolver is 32T chain ring with 11-50 NX in the back, recently bought a carbon wheelset to upgrade from the stock alloy wheelset and that will have a 10-50 GX.
Find that currently when riding rough/rooty/rocky singletrack and steep punchy singletrack climbs, where I find the gearing most impactful I’m spending a lot of time around 28, 32, 36 gears of the cassette, I don’t use the 50T very much if ever so don’t see the need for a 52T cassette range but would think having smaller jumps in the gearing for technical slow speed stuff would be helpful, so was thinking if I decreased my chain ring size to 30T, maybe I would spend more time in the middle of the cassette like 22, 25, 28. I know there is some efficiency loss with a smaller chain ring, which is my understanding why people run 34s or 36s but I would think with a larger chainring I would be further up the cassette and actually needing to use the 50T and spending more time in the 42T.

Any thoughts on this? I know people will drop chain ring size for events like Leadville with lots of sustained climbing but it seems like for general XCO people are instead going 34-36T cassette, not decreasing to a 30T but maybe these people are more powerful and spending more time in smoother, flowy singletrack rather than the Northeast jank.

Heavily depends on your fitness. I think people mostly drop chainring sizes for Leadville because of the altitude and so power output loss.

At sea level and for XCO I find a 32 just results in loss of traction when climbing for me. I’m running a 34, and will try a 36 for my next race.

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I personally have moved to running a 34 everywhere with a 10-52. Here on the east coast I find that it works great for me on pretty much every terrain from the chunky and slow, to the fast rail trails where I can spin close to 30mph on the downhills before spinning out. I personally don’t find a need for tighter gear ratios, I’m even getting ready to build my Gravel Bike with SRAM 10-52 1x, just with a bigger ring.

I ran a 32 last year for Leadville, but am sticking with the 34 this year as my power’s come up some since then.

Hi, I have had a skim through the posts this year and not sure if this question has been answered. But there are a lot of posts about Epic Evo/Epic 8 and FA etc.

On the weekend I did Xterra France its a tough one and is really varied in terrain, it is also really long (3 hours - 44km). I noticed during this race I was constantly locking and unlocking by forks and shock on my Epic Evo Expert (yes got a close out deal late last year). My XC skills are getting there but I’m no pro, but I was thinking i’m basically guessing based on feel as to what the most efficient mode is here (locked out or open).

So would a 3 position lock out be worthwhile, or even FA?

On FA does anyone know if unofficially you can upgrade the SID Select+ to FA? by swapping the damper and adding the module? I know that the Ultimate can be upgraded, and its very similar to the Select+

Depends on your budget I guess. I have only one ride into FA on my epic 8 and feel like it’s just like electronic shifting. Once you go there, it’s hard to go back. It’s awesome imho and I probably won’t ever ride anything else again. 3pos lockout does essentially the same, but you have to do it manually and have this cable mess infront of the bike - meh. If you can afford it and you feel like it’s worth it to you, get it.

Don’t know about your other Q though. Maybe ask a suspension center through their CC. But if it’s not officially recommended or compatible per SRAM they probably won’t do it because of liability.

Why would a smaller chain ring affect traction?

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I just got rid of my lockouts on my top fuel. I don’t think it saves enough time to be worth the trouble on a well tuned bike, and it looks nice and clean.