Just finished an interesting and totally gratuitous wheel build, mainly geared at races like Leadville so not my “Everyday” wheelset. Basically I wanted a backup and why not go for lightweight?
We are one revive 25mm internal.
DT Swiss 180 Hubs.
Berd Spokes.
SRAM CLX rotors to match
Continental Race King 2.2 instead of Wolfpack Speed TLR on my other wheels.
Tubolight Evo SL Inserts on both sets
Currently sitting at 6# 11oz (3,033g) without sealant for the entire wheelset package almost ready to ride. With sealant I should be at a 1# net savings over my DT SWISS XRC-1200 30C that came on my Oiz with the same hubs/rotors/inserts.
No pictures or ride experience yet as we’re still in mud season, but hoping to start getting out on the trails before too long.
(yes, this was expensive, but I did a lot of discount shopping last year using black Friday sales, etc. to get roughly a 20% or more discount off of typical retail prices…)
• We are One Revive Rims, Berd Spokes, DT Swiss 180 Hubs
○ Front - 518 g
○ Rear - 610 g
• Sram CLX Rotors
○ Front 180 mm - 139 g
○ Rear 160 mm - 118 g
○ Wolf Tooth Lock Rings - 21 g (F&R)
• SRAM XX1 10-52 Cassette - 372 g
• Continental Race King ProTection Tires - 29 x 2.2 - 568 g x 2 = 1136 g
• Tubolight Evo SL Inserts - 60 x 2 = 120 g
• Rim Tape - Approx 15 Grams Total
• Valves ~ 30g total
Total Measured - 6#, 11 oz
• Sealant - Approx 4 ounces per tire, ~220g total
Total Estimate 3,299g = 116.4 oz = 7.27#
Orbea / DT Swiss Wheels = 8.31#
I have WAO Revives on my Spur - I love them! I’ve got i9 Hydras on mine instead of the DT Swiss, but I’ve been thinking about getting them relaced with Berd spokes because I want to try them, so I’ll be curious to hear what you think when you’ve had some time on them.
Divine SL looks good. I’ll read some reviews. I don’t think I’d go for the Lev CI just due to the weight limit.
I like the Loam on the Spark. It’s definitely heavier than the light weight droppers, but lighter than my old fox transfer for more travel.
The Wolfpack Tyres are pretty light, you’re right that it’s optimistic. Just checked again as I hadn’t looked in a while. I’ll run Speed and Race and it should be about 1350g for the pair (listed weight)
Main reason I started this way is to keep things the same between my two wheelsets to minimize issues with pad rub, and I already had these on the other wheels.
Second, before I changed anything I have some very significant descents to plan for at Leadville this year - the Columbine Descent is ~30 minutes and 3000’ (~920m) and Powerline is shorter, but steeper.
Not saying I wouldn’t look for alternatives, but I’d need two sets and one area I’m very reluctant to go chasing weight is brakes.
How do you find the Ashima rotors, do they cut through pads faster than something like an XT IceTech? @kryton57 do the Quaxar rotors cut through pads? Seems like a useful option for race day rotors especially. Looking at Magura brakes, they prefer 2mm thick rotors. That seems excessive compared to the normal XT I use.
Do you know what the headset standard is in the NS?
On the Vitus spec sheet it says IS41.8/28.6 and IS52/40. I’ve never seen an IS41.8 - do you just use IS42?
I got the hubs as part of my “fitness” fund before I was officially let go of my last job. (I already had a new offer signed) I let my mechanic go through some builds and the Astral items is where we landed.
They are not the lightest build, but they are stiff in a way that uo can feel what is happening at the contact patch.
The stock Cannondale HollowGram wheels (rebranded DT Swiss Hubs & carbon rims) just feel vague in comparison.
Instant engagement of the rear hub is just amazing. Five stars. Highly recommended
No issues with the Quaxars and pads no. I use Disco brakes semi compound which last 9 months of UK SE riding and racing - forest singletrack in the main.
Looking at getting a power meter for my mountain bike and was looking at potential options and figure I’d collect some thoughts. Bike is a SRAM groupset and comes with a SRAM X1 Eagle Alloy. Not sure if there is better spot for this (if so, whisk this away, chad)
I left off left-side only options (Stages, 4iiii) as well as SRM options (don’t wanna drop that kind of coin). I saw the new SRAM transmission cranksets/pm are backwards compatible, but it appears they are left side only? Someone correct me if I’m wrong
Pedal Based
Pros: can transfer across multiple bikes, less compatibility issues, pedaling dynamics depending on the model
Cons: more susceptible to damage than a spider based unit
Garmin Rally XC200
$1199
+/- 1%
Weight: 444 g
Other: reviews seem to be pretty mixed
Assioma DUO-Shi
$659 (plus $50-150 for pedal bodies)
+/- 1%
Weight: ~355 g depending on pedal body per the ‘Hack’ thread
Other: technically not supported/recommended by Assioma. Any concerns about durability or accuracy using it ‘off label’?
Crank/Spider Based
Pros: most well protected, most affordable (if you’ve already got your cranks and pedals)
Cons: if you change cranks or bikes you might have to get another power meter
POWER2MAX NGECO SRAM MTB POWER METER
$590
+/- 2%
Weight: 125 g
Other: should fit my crank, thought I think I’d need to buy a new non-direct mount chainring (~$40). I’ve had an NGeco on my cross/gravel bike for almost 7 years now and it’s worked great
QUARQ SRAM XX1 EAGLE
$645
+/- 1.5%
Weight: couldn’t find the weight of just the spider itself in my brief 60 second google search, probably adds 100-150 grams to crankset
Other: only works with Sram XX1 Eagle crank arms which cost $410
Having just dug into this in the last 24hours, I would say get a Sigeyi. They are compatible with the SRAM 3-bolt and are cost effective, accurate, reliable, and unlike Quarq have a rechargeable instead of user replaceable battery.
Now, if you find a cost effective option for SRAM 8-bolt. Please let me know.
Looks like my race bike will be without PM initially and I’ll be stuck with a Quarq in the future times when affordability allows.
I have two of these. One of the benefits is that the chainrings aren’t drivetrain-specific. So if you switch from Shimano to SRAM drivetrain, you can keep the cranks, BB and power meter, and just change out the other components. You might need to change a chainring (I can’t remember if they use the same chainring for both 12-speed versions or not).
I have one bike on Shimano 11-speed, and the other SRAM 12-speed. I can run the same PM, cracks and BB on both bikes.
Yes, some people will laugh at you for using Shimano cranks with a SRAM drivetrain (or vice versa), but it doesn’t affect anything…
@mhandwerk I can’t speak to the MTB version, but my Power2Max NGeco Rotor ALDHU SL crank on the road bike has been great. It’s the Shimano version, but I don’t think that’ll impact anything. As for Quarq, I have heard good things from those using that system. Like you, they already had SRAM so no conversion for the BB made that a good option for them. Overall, I don’t think you can go wrong with either option.
I second this. I have a Sigeyi AXO on my epic evo as well as one on a gravel bike that I use sram MTB cranks on, and they have always worked perfectly. I also had a Power2Max that worked well, but the Sigeyi is significantly cheaper.
I had rally pedals and didn’t like them. Sold to them to a friend, who broke them. Another friend also broke one. I did the Assioma conversion as well, but the xpedo bodies were looser on my cleats, and squeaked a lot in the wet/dirty conditions. Also more difficult to get out of than SPDs. I love my Assiomas for road but wouldn’t recommend pedals for MTB. Spider is the way to go.
