It all depends. And I agree also that is doesn’t matter if someone rides 1x or 2x. I’m no advocacy for 1x.
It just that that there’s the old thinking in olds sport cyclist that 2x is the only correct way. I don’t think that is primarily the case. Especially for average Joe’s. 1x is just as good if not simpler.
Surprisingly liked 1x so much on my Checkpoint that I’m looking at options for my Tarmac SL7.
I’ve read quite a few studies on cadence and efficiency and I can’t remember any of them having meaningful conclusions about an “optimal” cadence that is most efficient for an individual. There might be a study out there that says that, I just haven’t seen it.
As a recovering cadence diva, I’ve gotten to the point (at least in my head) that having more variation in cadence is a good thing. Zero science, etc., but just based on my personal perception. Training in different cadence ranges has always been a thing, so nothing new there. But I am convinced that varying cadence a bit during long events reduces fatigue. Again, I used to be the guy that would set the RPM’s in the low 90’s and was annoyed any time my gearing got me out of that range. Doing more off-road racing (mostly on 1x) on gravel and MTB has completely changed my outlook on cadence and improved my ability to comfortably put out power across a wider cadence range. All of this is n=1 and there are lots of variables in play, so it’s far from a scientific conclusion. But if it’s in my head, then it’s real for me…
I think I didn’t manage to express myself properly, because that was my point: not being overly picky about cadence is a big plus.
That gives me some fomo, although I think that would have made my bike a lot more expensive. I would have gone with a 10-39 cassette whose gearing I really like. I would have opted for oval chain rings, either 42- or 44-tooth. Had everything figured out, but a somewhat famous bike designer and self-proclaimed friend of 1x told me they had tested it and had trouble setting it up properly. I have tried double tap once and immediately fell in love, so I knew I’d like the shifters. Ekar had those polarizing thumb shifters, so that was a no-go for me.
Ah okay. I misunderstood. I agree then. I think when I started riding gravel I learned very quickly that finding the perfect cadence was not easily found. At least not on the gravel I typically ride.
48T “Aero” Chainring with 10-44 XPLR in the back 
I heard that as well that setting it up was cumbersome. But as mentioned, that’s only once.
The fear I have is that the knowledge of this groupset is thinly spread. And that one day I don’t have the option to let someone repair it. Maybe trying to solve issues myself. But the success rate will be low…
If and when I buy a new bike (frame most likely) I just want to transfer everything to the new bike. I don’t have the need or urge to buy newer groupsets because this is everything I need.
On road climbs I’m 3W/kg ftp on a great day. Also known as the party in the back. I’m going to first try a Frankenstein 2x / XPLR mullet and treat it like a 1x (48T for flats, 35T for climbing).
I love 1x off-road. And for specific use cases on pavement.
But for mixed speed/elevation on pavement, 2x is the way to go.
Example: 44x10-33 would be fine for most of my local riding. But it wouldn’t be fast enough for sprint finishes at a crit. Not does it have enough low end for climbing in the Blue Ridge (vs a 34-50x11-28). And going to a 36 or 42 cassette gives the range but starts to open annoying gaps in the middle.
Right now, I’m using 33-46x10-33 on road and a 10-36 on gravel (two wheelsets). That seems to work well. Next year I’m adding a road bike back into the mix and will run 33-46x10-33 on it and the gravel bike will use 30-43x10-36 which will make it a bit more useful for light touring/bike-packing.