Currently running full mechanical 11x 1 GRX with an XT 11-46 cassette and 40t front ring on GRX600 170mm cranks with a Stages LH crank.
I’ve had this setup since 2020, so I’m fancying a bit of an upgrade, but I want to keep the power meter. Got a couple of routes:
Now I don’t mind mismatched groupsets, I ran Shimano/SRAM/Hope combo on the MTB for ages, I just want good performance both off-road and on road.
SRAM, I think, has better off-road performance with clutches but the Shimano brakes are supposed to be better. Would use the appropriate Wolftooth ring for my existing cranks as they look to cover all bases, probably in a 42t or 44t as the larger cassette would allow for that with good climbing gears. I’d have more range than my current one, and I can get up most things already (no mountains where I live, just short, nasty ones).
If it were your upgrade, what would you lean towards? There’s not really a price issue as it’s a chunk of cash either way and any cheaper SRAM options due to not being brand new are countered by needing callipers. Not doing wheels right now, I keep adding to baskets and deciding not to, so it might not be the upgrade route right now!
Shimano brakes are way better IMHO than older Sram brakes, but the E1 stuff (even Rival on my new Checkpoint) really closed the gap.
I have 12 speed Ultegra Di2 on my road bike, had a Force D1/Eagle mullet on my last gravel bike, and Rival XPLR on my new gravel bike so I’ve tried a bit of everything! If it’s a non-UDH bike, I’d lean towards Rival/Force E1 shifters/brakes and Eagle AXS derailleur/cassette. Nothing against the new Shimano GRX Di2 stuff, but Sram has really nailed their offroad offerings.
I went with Wheeltop EDS TX this spring from a GRX mix with a Stages PM. I wanted wireless so it was wait or move to SRAM which would have be too pricey. Is it as good as Shimano or SRAM, probably not but works good enough for me and didn’t cost an arm and a leg. It was a shifter and derailleur swap and I kept the GRX calipers.
The TX is their road group (2x) and the GeX is their 1x group with a wider range.
I’ve looked at this a few times but mostly lack of shops puts me off in case of issues. It would be cheaper as I believe I could stick with the 11 speed until dead cassette and upgrade then.
Might have to add the cost to the sheet!
Brakes are somewhat personal. I really hate the way Shimano dropbar brakes feel, and prefer my Force D1 brakes. I do run XT brakes on my mountain bike and they do feel alright to me, so this isn’t me preferring SRAM over Shimano in all circumstances. But it seems I am in the minority (which is fine).
By all accounts, the E1-series brakes are a step above Shimano dropbar brakes, so the majority opinion seems to have changed here.
Personally, I feel that SRAM has the better offerings at the moment, especially when it comes to mullet setups and especially if you want a native crank-based power meter.
I’m definitely aware of preference with braking, I think I’m the only person I ride with running Magura MTB brakes. I’d love them on the dropbar bike but that’s a bit of a tangent!
Seems like SRAM is the preferred option, typically it’s the more expensive one! Bar trying something from not the big two that is.
That’s a fair point, it’s a bit finicky to get setup initially and you are essentially on your own to scour online when things go wrong. There’s an ever increasing community that are pretty active, one guy even created his own app because the OEM was pretty badly translated.
Things may change as Wheeltop acquired Rotor so it will have better channels to LBSs. I believe (but don’t quote) I saw something about a Rotor group set in the works, presumably based on the Wheeltop EDS
Man, so many options and they can all end up great if well setup. Can’t go wrong with SRAM for 1x. I went from beloved drop bar Shimano 2x11 (with 4 piston Hope calipers) for years to finally 1x electronic Force/Red XPLR build this year. I wasn’t sure I would like electronic but it has been great. I have a 40t ring and now have 2 sets of wheels one with 10-44 cassette and one with 10-36 that can easily be swapped to the bike. Down the road I think about getting an GX derailleur and chain in case I want to run it mullet if I went anywhere with mountains. I love the AXS web feature where it can tell you time in a certain gear, really helpful to dial in chainring and cassette selection for an event. If you do go Sram the new E version lever shape is loads better than the D version where the AXS paddle would either hit your fingers wrapped around the bars or bottom out on the tape if you tried to single finger brake. The new design solves this issue.
Off topic
I had Magura Julies, which I really liked, 4-pot Hope brakes that were stellar and M785 XT brakes that I got on with great. The new(er) M8100 XT brakes are a bit of a let-down in comparison to the older model. I tried getting Maguras and SRAM brakes, but it was during the pandemic and living in Shimano country at the time, XT brakes were most readily available.
I recently moved from 2x 10 Speed GRX 400 to SRAM Force/Rival/Apex hybrid of stuff. I am loving the upgrade!
I did this on a pretty conservative budget, $800 USD, I didn’t care that they were mixed levels. I see my gravel bike as a tool, my road bike is my jewel. I did upgrade if I felt the weight savings were worth the investment.
New (eBay)- Force D1 1X 40 tooth crankset - chose this as it lighter than Rival, but only a little more money $150 . I know you have a crank plan, adding for others.
Mint/Used (eBay) Rival D1 Shifters and brakes - I like the shifters and brakes, they seem pretty similar to my GRX 400. I stuck with my Shimano rotors which still had life in them. I was going to get Apex but got these cheaper and were essentially new $300.
New Apex Xplr rear derailleur (Amazon) - same internals with a 4 gram weight increase from Rival and cheaper $211.
Used/new take off (eBay) Xplr 1231 11 - 44 cassette - its HG compatible. This let me use my current wheels without having to buy a XDR hub. I will likely upgrade here in the spring as I want lighter wheels and I’ll see if I miss the 10 tooth after a couple races $80.
New Force chain (eBay) - the shorter ones which is what I needed are dirt cheap ATM, also its lighter (chrome) than the Rival (steel) chain $25.
UV Painting Battery for Axs (Amazon) why pay more for a battery, it works just as well as my Sram batteries $18.
I know you plan to keep your crank but if you don’t mind running cranks 170, 172.5, or 175 and want to upgrade there are some straight steals can be found on high level, carbon, and power cranks now that everyone is wanting to go shorter. I don’t need cranks right now but was browsing the for sales the other day and I almost wish I did!